Hello all,

I've tried searching to forum for any posts related to this but have only found a chap that recommends putting some ATF in for 20 mins.

I'm about to oil change my FF and wanted to know if anyone has any recommendation on using this:-

http://www.carlube.co.uk/engine-flush/carlube-engine-flush

I would always use it to flush my boat's Short Chevy V8 which I'd change the oil on every 2 weeks. Just not sure on using it on the FF as I can't find any opinions on it?

When my car used to be serviced by the main dealer, they always charged me for some engine flush!

That was over 150k miles ago. 2014 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography & 2015 3.0SDV6 HSE Lux Discovery 4
2005 4.2 Supercharged Vogue SE & 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE Discovery 4
2002 4.4 Vogue
2000 4.6 Vogue
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE
2009 Freelander 2 TD4.e 2009
1992 Mercedes 300D
1986 Renault 2.1 Turbo D
1976 Morris Marina 1.8

They can be quite good and we offer them to customers at my work and they seem to go down well.

cheers Alex

2018 Skoda Kodiaq vRS
2009 Caterham Supersport Race car
2007 M5 Touring
2005 Range Rover Vogue SE Supercharged
2004 SL55 AMG

Unless you have a particular problem with sludge or blocked oil ways etc, why would you use this?

In the boat there is no sump plug, using it made it easier to vacuum out, I wasn't too fussed about whether or not there was a long term issue on it because I sucked it all out.

How would I know whether or not I have a sludge issue?

I've always used a couple of bottles of Forte Advanced Engine Flush in mine but I was a bit concerned that some remained in the engine after draining and then mixed with the new oil diluting it so last time I chucked in some cheap fully synthetic with the view of doing another oil only change but I'm still on the cheap synthetic
I would say that if you don't have any rattles or taps you are trying to cure I would probably just do the oil change. There is a whole lot of crap built up inside the various casings and castings which a flush may release into the many small oil ways in tappets and tensioners.
I think it's one of those always done it or never do it procedures.
I'm in it now so I will do it every time

Thanks Holiday Chicken.

It was rebuilt twice last year so not too sure whether or not it would be worth doing now....

Do you have any rattles or taps ?
i think i have lazy followers on mine which take a while to fill up but there are some very small holes in things like the timing chain tensioner that i think could get blocked if you dislodge a load of crap so maybe one bottle of Forte in it for 20 minutes on idle probably wouldn't hurt but if your engine is sewing machine quiet i would just treat it to regular oil and filter changes with good synthetic.
what oil do you use ?

No rattles or taps but the engine does Hummm loudly, like tha fan is running super loud on starting idle

I'm using this:-

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Land+Ro...amp;000398

mine does that from time to time, i wouldn't worry about a humm, you could try reading the codes but as long as you are not using any oil or water then it could be to do with the HEVAC.
When you change the oil this time see if it looks really dirty then it may be worth a flush next time but if yours is quiet, which so many aren't, then i would just change the oil.

More like a fan hum from where the fan is.

Thank you, the warm air didn't come on just now so could be that or just another hole in the bucket!

The fatty tends to be more hole than bucket, at least mine was.

you may have seen this thread which gives you some insight into where the fan gets it's inspiration from as to whether it should be on or not so not just a simple 'I'm hot = turn on fan'

i think there is mention somewhere of a relay that gets stuck on and eventually burns out the fan.
i have a TD6 on my drive that has many issues and while we had diagnostics connected the electric fan started pouring out smoke which was a little exciting

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic44707.html