Over the last week or so I've noticed my front left corner has dropped after the car is parked for a few hours or overnight, then about a week ago I came out from work and the front left had dropped considerably but not to the stop, started up and it immediately inflated back to normal as it has done every time. Got home that evening and later decided to do have a look at it but after starting I got a "suspension lowered" message on the dash and no lights on the suspension selector, took it for a spin before doing anything else to see if it did anything or said anything about raising but it drove fine and nothing else came up.

Put the reader on and got 2 faults which in a moment of stupidity I cleared, one I think was "lost communication with (EAS?) module", the other related to steering angle sensor, clearing the faults make no difference and the lights stayed out on the selector so I did a battery reset and everything came back to normal and although the corner is still dropping, as is the rest of the car but not as much (this might be a result of it attempting to self level?), no related faults or codes have returned.

It immediately inflated and raises when started and drives with no issues although I though I heard what I can only describe as a "hoot" a few times this morning while cornering but couldn't get it to do it again.

Now I know the obvious culprit is the strut but the bag looks pretty fresh with a sticker "BWI Group L322 F/L, BWI P/N 22287275A, 20/6/15, LAND ROVER P/N LR051702" which I would assume is the date of manufacture .

BWI bought Delphi's suspension and brakes business in 2009 so I wouldn't have expected it to fail so quickly, I've raised the suspension and sprayed it with soapy water but can't see or hear any leaks from the bag but might try jacking it this evening to fully extend the strut and try again.

So I'm just wondering if there anything else I should be looking at?

Any other obvious faults or areas that are prone to leaking?

As I've said, when started it immediately raises so I don't think it's a resevoir or pump problem but I'm obviously open to any information or guidance.

Many thanks.

you could raise to off road and check for leaks with copious amounts of soapy water. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Thanks Stan, but tried that already and no joy, couldn't hear or see anything but might try jacking it to fully extend the strut and have another go, thanks.

Finally got around to jacking the FF to look for a suspected leak.

Put it to off road height and jacked the offending corner off the ground to extend the strut and covered the whole thing in soapy water and couldn't see any sign of a leak anywhere, pulled out my borescope to have a look at the fitting and that looks ok as well.

Any ideas where I should be looking next or any usual suspects in this sort of problem?

Valve block or cross link valves?

Would people be of the opinion that my original thought that although the entire vehicle is lowering over a period of time it's certainly one corner that dropping faster and the rest are just following due to the self leveling?

Any thought or opinions are once again gratefully received, thanks.

Can you disable the EAS with your "reader" ? ( you can with the IIDTool ) If you can get car to normal height then disable. If height drops at LF then you must have a leak in that area (bag/pipes/control valve). Otherwise could be a height sensor. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks for that Joe, but it's operating correctly without any warnings or faults showing, it will properly cycle to and from normal ride height, it's just dropping over night or a long period, but seems to the the front left in particular and I'm assuming the rest are following due to the self leveling, once started it will immediately rise to normal and level position.

Or did you mean disable it incase something it telling that corner in particular to drop?

Yes, by disabling the ECU won't do any self levelling or other stuff, so everything should stay as it was, all control valves closed etc. This isolates each corner. If a corner drops like this, then air is the problem at that corner, if it drops all round, it is a central air issue e.g. at the reservoir. If it stays up, then the problem more likely to be sensors / ECU.

You can also disable with a door open (not tailgate) - if you have a secure drive or if you are "in" all day.

Worth trying at Normal and Off Road height. Many people have had leaks and not been able to find them as they can be quiet and sneaky! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Cheers for that Joe, I might try leaving the door open when I get home tonight and see what it's like in the morning.

Apologies for the absence from this thread and the forum, the RR has been on the back burner for a while to deal with more pressing issues, non vehicular but just as much trouble......

Anyway, I haven't had a chance to deal with this problem yet but in fairness to the FF it hasn't gotten any worse and has continued as per previous, no errors, no issues other than the front left corner dropping wile parked for more than a few hours, immediately inflates when started and will cycles thought off road and access when selected as normal.

I have tried parking it in different positions, at home and work it's usually parked on a slight decline perhaps putting slightly more pressure on the front but that's made little difference, however, while parked with with a door open effectively disabling the self leveling (thanks Joe90 for the suggestion), the drop does seem to be confined to the front left corner.

Now since the bag is dated June 2015 I wouldn't have suspected it to be the problem, I've saturated it with soapy water and cannot find any bubbles or leaks anywhere in it, I then though perhaps the connection to the bag was the problem but again, soaking this and observing with a borescope hasn't shown any leaks, although I'm not 100% convinces this isn't the problem and intend to have another look at this.

Failing to locate a leak in this immediate area, where is my next port of call?

Pull out the wheel arch lining and take a look for leaks in there, or head straight down the back and pull the cover off the compressor?

I'm not overly familiar with the location of the valve blocks/control solenoids etc. so need to do a little research on that tp perhaps help isolate the problem but just though I'd ask in here to draw on the members experience before going any further.

Again, any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated.

First valve block to have a look at is the one behind the Front Right Wheelarch liner, next to the mudguard, to check for leaks and condition. This is the first point that controls air to that corner. Then to the reservoir valve block. Shouldn't need to check any further back than that.

If you can trace the air feed pipe, see if it is rubbing against anything which could cause a slow leak ... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks again Joe, it certainly makes sense to start at the front and work back since the problem certainly seems to be isolated to the LF corner.

I should have said earlier, after start up and after the corner has come back to normal height, but perhaps before it's reached full pressure, or before the reservoir is fully charged, if I drive forward a little and then brake I can hear a sort of hoot or groan from the front when extra pressure comes on it from braking, or if I turn sharply to the right putting pressure on the left corner.

This would tend to suggest that air is being forced out somewhere when it comes under extra pressure before the system has fully charged again, of course this doesn't really help solving the problem of where....

But it does seem to be coming from the left which points back to the bag or connection since the valve is on the right.

I think I'm going to end up having to take the strut off for a proper look and check the connection.......

Although I can't see or hear anything and there are no bubbles appearing when sprayed with soapy water perhaps the rubber bag is becoming detached from strut and the leak isn't showing up.

have you tried looking for leaks with it in extended off road mode? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Hi Stan, yes, tries that, extended mode and also jacked the corner to fully extend the strut and still couldn't see anything, or more correctly couldn't see anything on the parts that were visible.

The actual rubber seems in good condition as it's dated June 2015 but that's not to say it isn't leaking where it's attached the strut, or the connection.

I'm having a little look at a few videos of the front valve block, could be a leak in there so I'm going to go in that direction next, could just be a bit of dirt on a valve seat or perhaps the silica gel is breaking down and getting into the system and affecting a valve sealing properly.

I'm not sure how serviceable it is, or if new seals or O rings are available but it's probably easier than taking the strut off and dunking it into the bath with a airling........

There is a spot where the supply pipe rubs on the bodywork and can rub through.

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic32934....+connector

Might be a place to look, I know that's rear but might be worth checking the blue pipes. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Thank you sir........

Everything is worth a look at this stage, I guess I'll know a little more when I pull the wheel arch cover and see what's going on with or around the valve block, could just be a bad connection there.......wishful thinking I know..... .......