the main reason for needing 4g is all the pads I have for grandkids are 4g and they are always in all the cars so I have a mifi 4g unit in all my cars 3g is rubbish around here as well 4g is as fast if not faster than broadband

 Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Hi.

First of all thanks Haylands for this brilliant thread. I have read all the comments and the useful information.

Also I see that new versions ar coming more or less all the time, and that it might be possible to fit even a bigger screen. (9") made for the X5.

However, this is not why I am writing.
In Norway where I live they have started to shut down the FM-net.. So drivers without DAB+ in northern Norway have now got plenty of possibility to practice their singing..

Anyhow, I have a perfectly functioning system with satnav, DSP, integrated telephone and FBH, all controlled through the head unit. Thus I need to move the head unit into the glove box to reating the FBH operation.
My question however is this. The new bluetooth capable headunit is perfect for seamless usage in combination with my mobile phone. But as the existing system already a really good integrated microphone, have anyone tried to take the existing integrated RR microphone for the factory fitted telephone and connect it to the new Android head unit?

If so: how do you connect it and was the sound quality just as good as with the old unit?

Thanks guys.

Ottar

Haylands wrote:

Because you have the additional amp in the boot, you have DSP fitted to the car, this means that you'll have to follow Pete's wiring diagram for the speakers, can be a bit fiddly as you're connecting up to 4 wires at a time, just follow Pete's chart and you wont go wrong.

There is no need for an additional amp, unless you have a desire to connect the sub woofer.. I was concerned about this, but during the strip down I discovered that my sub wasn't plugged in.. ever but it sounded good to me... unless you're planning on subjecting the rest of the world to some Drum'n'Bass, I wouldn't worry about it... If you think it might be an issue then run a long phono cable from the new head unit (sub connection) to the rear, so that you can upgrade without pulling all the interior out again  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Thanks for your reply. I understand that I probably don't need the amplifier but I want to avoid cutting wires or rewiring if I can.

The extension harness A0579 I ordered claims to work seamlessly with DSP and starts the amplifier without the need to connect the original MID/radio.

http://www.eonon.com/Accessories/Kits-Harness/A0579.html

Do you think this is just a marketing tactic and I'll still have to cut/rewire? I guess, I should wait to test it out when the system gets here.

There is even a youtube video of a guy who installed this system on his 2004 RR in Jan 2017. He hasn't gotten back to me regarding details.

It is possible that it will work as plug and play, but this would be the first aftermarket system to work with the DSP. The dsp gets a signal on the ibus from the BM54 unit to turn it on, Eonon might have sorted out the code to fix the system...but they would be the first to do this. on the up side if it doesn't work you'll have already got the lead from the new stereo to the place that it needs to be to connect to the speaker wires from the dsp. For the cost involved I'd still extend the subwoofer phono to the rear just incase, and if you haven't already got one a feed for a reversing camera is a must! FYI before you put everything back a lead going the other way from the reverse lights to the head unit would be a good idea  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I have already ordered a backup camera and will install at the same time. It's the one that fits in place of the license plate lights.

Also the subwoofer phono wire install seems like a smart idea and will look into it.

Are you referring to the backup camera with the 'lead going the other way from the reverse lights'? Or is this a different wire? Can you provide more details?

Thanks.

You need to run a feed from the reversing lights to the head unit so that it knows when you're going backwards, at the same time you need to run video from the camera to the head unit.. and you'll need an extra lead as there is no way that 6 meters is going to be enough to get from the tailgate to the dash, without going through the roof lining, although that's not such a bad idea... might be enough, if it is then use the red wire to power the camera and run an extra lead from the head to the reverse lamps... you could try and pick up the feed from the gearbox end, but it's tight... much easier to lift the floor in the back and the wires for the reverse lamps are just to the right of centre, there is a multi plug there  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Thank you for this bit of info that I totally get now. Your are right the 5M video wire included with backup camera won't be enough. I need an extra extension at least from tailgate camera to the boot where Amp and Navi unit are located so I can run all the extension wires from there to the front of the car.


I did check the connection diagram on Eonon unit and didn't see a place where I would connect the extra lead from the reverse lamps. I am going send a note to their support to find out how this unit determines that the reverse gear is selected. I wouldn't have thought of it.

Very good tip on the sub lead and camera feed.
I am keen on hearing how plug and play the new system acually is regarding the DSP.

Khyber.
What type of camera did you order?

One like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-170-N...SwmtJXX8wp Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Yes, it looks similar. I ordered from Amazon US.

miggit wrote:

Because you have the additional amp in the boot, you have DSP fitted to the car, this means that you'll have to follow Pete's wiring diagram for the speakers, can be a bit fiddly as you're connecting up to 4 wires at a time, just follow Pete's chart and you wont go wrong.

There is no need for an additional amp, unless you have a desire to connect the sub woofer.. I was concerned about this, but during the strip down I discovered that my sub wasn't plugged in.. ever but it sounded good to me... unless you're planning on subjecting the rest of the world to some Drum'n'Bass, I wouldn't worry about it... If you think it might be an issue then run a long phono cable from the new head unit (sub connection) to the rear, so that you can upgrade without pulling all the interior out again