Also Phil, a couple of points - if there is still a problem am I causing any serious damage driving like this or will the crack eventually just get bigger and bigger?

Also on another forum I saw you carried a few used ones you sell is that the case still?

The transmission is pretty good at looking after itself – in fact some would say the control system is actually too sensitive as it drops the transmission into failsafe at the merest hint of unscheduled clutch slip. Eventually the upper valve block crack gets worse until the edge breaks off.

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Ok thanks Phil - any light you can shed on how I should expect to slow down from speed quickly? Should it feel like engine breaking - not bucking like it was before?

Also I meant to say during this whole debacle from the beginning and even when it was only going into gears 1-3 when it was hit prior to oil cooler and rad, I had NO faults either on the check control nor in the gearbox fault memories - not sure if that's relevant p

Also would you think a litre and a half low on oil could be enough for my issues?

When you decelerate in ‘automatic mode’ the torque converter will be open (LUC off) and behaving as an inefficient fluid coupling so you would expect little engine braking. You will notice that the engine revs stay relatively low throughout the deceleration process even though the transmission is downsequencing. By engaging manual mode you can lock up the torque converter and also keep the engine revs higher by selecting a lower gear so it’s then possible to get an amount of engine braking – but it’s never very much in the higher gears.

Phil

thanks phil - will have a play in the next few days and see how we get on!

Guys back on this - Reading haylands old post I would say it sounds a similar issue now as the gear changes seem to always go from 1-5 now - it just bangs a bit into second when hot and seems like fairly severe engine braking - he said it was a blocked solenoid that cleared itself?

Also what should the rpm be at idle it sits about 400 , and in drive normal about 700 when crawling?

Since yesterday in drive it crawls at about 1000rpm and idles about 700 - which is right and do I have an issue?

PaulTyrer - when are you about Cambridge way? would be good for a second opinion - I'm here today and will be a couple of days next week also...

Thanks

Right - dragging this back up - as I had done everything but the oil change I decided that was the last piece to the puzzle before I need to consider big things - ended up buying the genuine Mobil oil genuine lr gasket and filter.

As I know the cherry stuff is in it (there was a bottle that came with it I used to top it up) I had planned to drain the sump and refills with correct oil then next weekend do the same again and do the filet and gasket that way I should have around 80% correct oil - anyway did today drain - fine - went to pump with my electric oil pump the stuff in and it struggled - it is noticeably thicker than the cherry stuff and than the average engine oil - is this the norm? Got about 4-5 litres in (while running at temp) and drove her for 50 miles and so far... seems a different gearbox ... and that's with only half the change done - will see how I get on this week then Change the rest

Automatic transmission fluid, whether it’s Dexron-type or LifeGuard Fluid 5-type, has a kinematic viscosity of around 38 mm2/s at 40°C. For engine oil it’s much higher (around 90 mm2/s at 40°C for 5W 40 or 10W 40), so your Mobil ATF LT71141 fluid certainly shouldn’t be ‘noticeably thicker’ than Dexron or engine oil. You can see how ‘thin’ it appears here :



Phil

Hmmm well it certainly is different my example may be a bit out but this is what I bought

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141496578109

And this is what the previous owner filled with judging by the half bottle in the boot

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Land+Rov...amp;000769


Would you expect a big difference?

Ok sorry to keep pulling this back to the top but done a 600 mile round trip down south and we went over a fair few hills. A couple of time I had my foot at mid thottle revs would be nice at say 2.5k and the it would jump gears and revs would go to 5.5k then it would go back to the 2.5 k all on the space of about 4 seconds - foot did not change - is that normal behaviour?

Sorry, haven't been keeping up with this thread... you are going through the same scenario I did, I managed to get many thousands of miles out of my dying box before I gave in and decided to rebuild it, then found out it had been attacked inside by a hammer wielding maniac resulting in a replacement box that had been recently rebuilt, Fatty has been a different vehicle since...

If I were you I'd save a few pennies and get a rebuilt box from Phil when yours really starts to die, drive gently and ease off as it is just about to change gear and you can "make" the box work quite well, but don't think your box is OK with just minor issues, it will be struggling inside to do what you ask and only getting worse...

Sorry to be all doom and gloom, just blame the idiot who put the wrong fluid in...

That last sentence will probably start a big argument about other oil being fine.... personal experience tends to disbelieve this....  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

So haylands is it worth me continuing my oil change I've done half already? Will it make a difference or shall I leave the mixed mess until it dies? It's never had any gearbox faults or protection warning since I had it - the plane was to drop the oil out again and look at the filter and the meccatronic thing that cracks at the Same time this weekend or next depending on wEather ? How many miles did you get out of yours before it packed in? Also was it a catastrophic failure or were you still able to drive about? The original gearbox faults of stuck in hers is well and truly gone now...

What will have been dying ? The tc? If the rest of the box was fine wouldn't it be cheaper to just change that

I would carry on with changing the filter.
This way you can see what metallic rubbish the magnets have picked up in the pan, this will give a pretty good indication of wear.
Seems odd that the trans had a rebuild 25k ago and input shaft seal is leaking already?
The increased revs you report on a hill climb at half throttle, sound normal to me, thats just the trans maintaining road speed, these are pretty gutless engines for a V8 due to their small displacement.
The engine will hunt quite a lot in hilly terrain, especially in cruise control.