Never had one, AFAIK they run cooler in anything else.... Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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Right, haylands...

The rad went in successfully last night and I've been pottering around all day today BUT it's a cold day and the days it went wrong was hot so not sure if it's a fair test. In the meant time as it seems ok for now I have ordered that thermostat kit to see how that fairs and if it then comes back it's got to be the oil cooler but that doesn't look amazingly old tbh.

With this stat kit sorry a little off topic - how hard is it to fit - I did the rad etc myself so I'm fairly good at these thing but anything too hardcore I will avoid - I did a straight star change on this engine before in my 535i but that was like for like this needs a little grinding with a dremel etc doesn't it? Thanks

Hi Guys,

ive done the thermostat mod and radiator now, the gearbox doesn't seem to be going into overheat mode so far but after sitting around it does get a bit more clunky so like its still not cooling right - so Pete - would you go for oil cooler next?

is this the correct oil cooler for the gearbox?

http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Land...amp;000227

Please somebody save me from tearing my hair out!!!

So not sure If I mentioned this but turns out the gearbox was rebuild 3yrs/25k ago.

When it's cold fresh in the morning she runs as silky as new. When she's hot when you pull away you get a boot in the back.

Following all the advise on here I did the oil, oil thermostat, oil cooler, oil cooler plastic thing, radiator, m60 thermostat mod... Feeling happy with myself now it was all done I went for a drive and guess what.. Still getting a boot in the back while pulling away when warm.

My coolant temps are 97c

Any help would b greatly appreciated

Bump

Had a similar sort of problem with ours not long after we bought it, long story short, the gearbox was 'rebuilt' when we bought it as there was an oil leak, so the dealer had it done. Anyway, not long after we got it, we found that reverse gear seemed a bit 'slow' to engage then it started going in with a bang, subsequently we got to the stage where we were revving the off the engine with virtually no drive in reverse.

We took it back to the gearbox specialists in Reading and they found that there was a hairline crack in the valve block which was causing it to lose pressure when reverse was selected. Once this was fixed (dont know if they replaced the block or what) we've not had any issues since, except that after this episode we had to have the box rebuilt again as the Torque converter was faulty, but thats another story!

Where in Cambridge are you? I've recently started work at Skanska on the Astra-Zeneca Project near Addenbrookes. Cant say that I would be of any mechanical help but I would be able to say if it was a similar kind of issue.
Also, not sure if its the same box but I think there is an issue with the second to first downshifts, RRPhil would know better.

I think what PaulTyrer has suggested is certainly a possibility. If your upper valve body has cracked ‘in the usual place’ this will cause the transmission to effectively drop into neutral (due to loss of hydraulic pressure on the A-clutch) when you have Drive selected at tickover but then when you apply the throttle the increase in engine revs produces sufficient flow from the transmission oil pump to overcome the leakage and the clutch engages with a bang and you’re away. When cold, the higher viscosity of the fluid means there’s less leakage and the pump can keep up, so there’s no loss of pressure to the clutch.

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Phil,
Thinking back it was worse after a longish run, the first time it happened I had driven from home (near Stonehenge) about 30 miles to an airstrip for a Glider Flight and noticed that it was struggling trying to reverse in the car park. Once it had cooled down it was OK, until I got home again and same problem in selecting reverse, although at that point it wasnt going in with a bang, just like you were slipping the clutch in a manual car.

Guys - it's still is rolling forward and backward when stopped as you'd expect does that feed the theory either way? Reverse engages very quickly as expected? Thanks

The ‘usual’ upper valve body crack - which, to be honest, is very rare on later 5HP24 models like for the L322 - is in the worm track between Shift Valve 1 (SV-1) and the F-clutch valve (KV-F). This circuit is pressurised in Park, Neutral and 1st gears only. It would therefore have no effect on reverse (i.e. Paul’s issue must have been elsewhere) but I would expect you to lose forward creep at idle. So you still have to hold the car on the brakes to stop it moving forward at idle in Drive, even on a slight uphill slope?

Phil

How do you define slight up hill in a multi story car park it doesn't creep but I would say that's quite steep?

Phil, checked the oil as I didn't top up after changing oil cooler as nothing came out the pipes then it clicked that the cooler held about a litre of oil so I topped it up and it was about a litre and a half down.

Took it for a 20 min drive after it certainly seems better it still feels like it holds back a little when stopping quickly but now don't know if thats just normal - they are old boxed. The bang on pull away was a lot less notceable.

I also found a less steep gradient.. If I am stopped in park and go to drive it struggles to creep if I give it a little gas creep is ok.

Lastly if that is cracked are you saying it can be changed with the gearbox still in the car?

Cheers

Maybe (hopefully) the issue was just the low fluid level then (though you would expect the same issue in reverse in that case).

I wouldn’t expect it could hold the car on a multi-storey ramp at tickover if the upper valve body was cracked. The car would probably roll backwards (in Drive).

The valve body assembly can be taken out from underneath after removing the transmission sump pan & filter. The transmission doesn’t have to be removed from the vehicle.

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Great thanks

Can you give me an idea of how the gearbox should be if you are going say 60 and come to a fairly quick stop would you expect to feel a degree of engine braking or should it be un noticeable? I know the box design is about 25years old now and I'm comparing it to modern dsg boxes which I don't think is a fair comparison but trying to work out what to expect...