Perhaps this project requires it's own topic. Went from fever to madness and traded my P38 to broken L322.

On your shopping list should be, engine timing lock set. (Camshaft/chain location tools)
New Chain and guides, water jacket rear gaskets, and a few more, ...valley pan replacement cover, some paint stripper, and silver spray paint for the covers...and obviously new rocker gaskets.
I did my chain and guides when I bought my l322 in similar fashion to you, out with the dinosaur p38, in with a trailer, and non running filthy, snow covered L322, and the Missus, looking at new project, with a finger on lip, whilst holding her elbow, and a few remarks, not quite as enthusiastic as yours!
I also did my vanos seals. -around £100 sent from 'US besian systems' with the (included) much needed tool.
My then 140,000 mile car, is now at 165,000 miles. And it's near silent, using a tiny amount of oil, and such an upgrade to the old p38's I had before.

It will be worth the ride, and you will know you did it 'right'

And nice colour too.

timing tool set *check*
new gaskets *check*
new chains *check* though old were OK to my eyes. No visible streching when compared chains.
new chain guides *check*
paint did forgot this completely. Have been concentrating on "go" more than "show".
new vanos seals *check* telfon ring looked OK. just replacing the o-ring behind it would have been enough.

Quote:

not quite as enthusiastic as yours!

I may have exaggerated her enthusiasm. Still got to sleep inside though.

Image link test below:
[img]https://brjfpq.dm2303.livefilestore.com/y3mRCc3XEhvYmSdP3SyD9zhS1980KmUdpwOzbu5qsAbGmt8DPkN_1GfOE77zkWay8Pz2VHjm3CymxF6hGzc2w2Elg_JEuHJ8YFQ9pG0yGyYK05KL-yDQOA6AiIf8jiiUP1z3x003_9GzfQO_tKi_nBjVbJDlcitYWVrfuVS6Zh7ZQA?width=1024&height=577&cropmode=none[/img] -08 3.6 Vogue
-87 951

....something else I changed whilst it was all apart, but can be done when all assembled, a very cheap part, were the vanos solenoid return check valves. Look them up, they eventually 'let by' and allow the oil in the vanos cogs, to run back, making them dry in the mornings. So, behind the protruding vanos solenoid, you insert I think an Allen head, to unscrew them, and replace. Only about £5 each x2.
I guess you had plenty of fun undoing the crankshaft nut?

P.s. I only did the rocker covers, as they were so pickled and flaking, they would have let the result down somewhat.
The rest of the engine and bay, was just steamed off. -all done I situ.

Soak your spark plugs, now, as these tend to bake themselves in, if you haven't got them out yet.
Q
Keep the pics coming! There aren't many on here of the internals under 'heavy surgery.'

I only changed the o-rings to those check valves. Otherwise they looked nice and clean. They have M10 thread inside so they can pulled of with proper bolt.

Yes, I had too much fun. I broke the flange when undoing the bolt.

Spark plugs have been off so many times and well oiled that they should be ok.

Heads have new valve stem seals and seats were lapped before assembly. New O2-sensors also coming. You are right about rocker covers. They need some fresh paint. Already have colouring kit from Furniture Clinic with Aspen and Ivory colours for interior.

There are more pictures in Finnish "Rover Victims" forum. For some reason there the image links work.
http://forum.roverfriends.fi/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=10390 -08 3.6 Vogue
-87 951

Yes the return check valve seals are changeable, I think that's what I did.
From your foreign forum, you look like you are having fun.

I mentioned the valley pan. These engines often suffer from water leaks, and the valley pan is often the culprit. There's a thread on here. Mine leaked, it fills the top of the inlet mani t block pockets with coolant. -it runs out the rear of the block through a tiny hole, and down the rear of engine and out through the gearbox /engine faces.
The repair is to remove, peel off old rubber gasket, prepare metal surfaces to clean metal, and either apply a bead of RTV and let it go hard, then bolt it on, as I did, -but mine has again started leaking again, a month or so on... so I have bought a replacement valley pan cover. It was about £35 sterling, and an original one is £75 sterling. (Part number Lcw000010) It has a bead already applied. The rubber gasket is not used. The bead being the improvement. It's probably a harder and more precisely laid bead, and I hope to cure my leak. I also changed all four water pipe O rings, and lubed with petroleum jelly and cleaned the pipe ends. And replaced the rear y pice gaskets. You have the opportunity to change the flywheel covered water gasket, and rear oil seal. Though I don't leak oil from rear... And I would throw in a gearbox front seal if you take that TC out.
Remember to replace the knock sensors, before you fit the water pipes, as you can't get them on otherwise.
It looks quite complicated to work on these engines, but if you use your camera, and read up, you can't really go wrong. They are very well engineered. And I'm sure you noticed how 'clean' all the oil ways are.
I might suggest you modify your thread title, to include the job you are doing, as opposed to just the car colour, as people search threads for all manner of info.

sweet thread, subscribed ! l=Oo\________/oO=l l:OolΞΞΞΞΞΞΞloO:l

Current
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L SDV8 - 2013 - Indus Silver, on Almond.
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L V8 - 2002 - ex-2003 G4 Challenge Event Vehicle, Stage 3: Australia
RANGE ROVER HSE 4.4L V8 - 2004 - one-of-one Overfinch
RANGE ROVER P38a 4.0L V8 - 1999 - ex-2000 TReK Event Vehicle: South Africa

Previous:
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L TDV8 - 2012 - RANGE ROVER 3.6L TDV8 x3 - RANGE ROVER Td6 x1 - RANGE ROVER Classic 3.5L V8 x1

Valley pan is also new. Not sure if it had leaked. Valley was covered in black oily crud. Water pump had been replaced earlier as time stamp on the part was 04 and tube o-rings at rear were somewhat damaged and fixed with rtv. Rear main seal had not leaked but it is also renewed.

Yes, you are also right about TC seal. I would be stupid not to chance it same time with TC. I'll also check valve body for cracks while changing filter.

Mobile phone with camera and workshop manual is invaluable asset in garage along with minigrip bags. All screws stay safe with removed part.  -08 3.6 Vogue
-87 951

Hi, great thread, good to see the inside of the engine, hope I don't get to see mine though.....

You mention problems uploading photos, I have found that if you post a link from a photo hosting website then if the name of the photo is too long then it won't load... usually they have the full date and a 4 digit number, if you reduce the name to a couple of digits it works OK... keep meaning to ask Stan if this is a fault or just me....

Also on your other thread I think you asked somewhere about the lights in the side air vents, they do have the hole for a light but Land Rover decided to leave the light out as it reflected in the door mirrors...

Good luck with getting it sorted....  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Hi, you should be good if coolant and oil stays where they should be.

I use onedrive for my photos and there is function to embed images. It creates monstrous link that should be pasted to web page or blog. Example shown below.

So no problem with side vents. That's good to know.

Managed to paint those covers. No showroom level but better than before. Used some engine paint that was left over from earlier projects.

Before:
https://cj1l6q.dm2303.livefilestore.com/y3...pmode=none

After:
https://b51l6q.dm2303.livefilestore.com/y3...pmode=none -08 3.6 Vogue
-87 951

Some progress again. Replaced brake line and hose to LH front. Found some surface corrosion from strut tower. Wirebrush and phosphoric acid paint should slow it down. Lot of cavity wax will be added later.

Attached image.

Click image to enlarge

Dropped oil from transmission and replaced torque converter with remanufactured one and seal of course. I wonder if someone has been there before me. Is drilling hole in torque converter and welding it shut common practise?

Click image to enlarge

The links to the before and after covers don't work....

Yep, that oil looks like it could do with changing... that TC looks like a recon one by the ring of weld, I expect they drilled a hole in it to drain it before cutting it in half.... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

... i would say, that the weld repair, is from the 'naughty method', of replenishing gearbox fluid. ie, if you are man-enough, you drill the TC with a small drill bit, just off the welded edge, and let it drain overnight, you then rotate it just a tad, and wipe with some spriit, and mig-weld the hole. all from underneath. -in situ!
then you refill the whole gearbox.
ive done it in the past.
yes, i ran the risk.... but I was SO naughty back then!

You rebel, you.....

I thought something similar to start with but surely that's the wrong way from the weld to get to underneath with it in situ, should be the other way nearer the flex plate bolts..??? Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-