Afternoon chaps, I'm looking for a method of cleaning all the crud that's built up in my induction system.

Last year I had to replace some of my injectors, and during this operation it was noticed that the inlet manifold was full of nasty sticky curd, which I tried to remove with some success. But this has not removed any of said crud from the induction system other than the manifold. And if I'm honest I recon that there is still a lot more in the manifold too.

I am now having to replace the near knackered Turbo, as I fear it's come to the end of it's life. I have reached this conclusion for several reasons...........

The engine is using oil, but there is no sign of a leak, and there is not excessive smoke (if any).
The Turbo has a squeal if the throttle is blipped at low revs, stop start situations show it best
The fuel consumption has gone up and I'm getting less MPG
And the performance has also slipped
Add this all up with an engine that has done 135K and the oily gunge in the induction system, and I've come up with f.u.b.a.r.'d Turbo

So before I send the Turbo off for rebuild, I'm looking to try and clean the induction system up, so that the new Turbo has the best possible chance in life. And from what I can make out it is better to do this before an oil change.

So far I have found this http://reviveturbocleaner.com/index.php which looks to be promising, but I have no experience of this product and was wondering if any of you do, or have had your engines cleaned via another method.

Basically I want to achieve a clean induction system (hoses, intercooler, manifold, head) without the need to strip it all down or replace it..... Any help / suggestions will be greatly received  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Bear in mind, that whatever you use is going to dislodge something in the intake system, and it's only way out is into the cylinders, and out through the rebuilt turbo

If you are not opting for a head off rebuild, I'd leave well alone

I was planning to do all the cleaning and run the car for a few days before the Oil is changed and the Turbo is replaced

I didn't come down on the up train.... or was it up on the down train... I get confused

The fact that I read that it was advisable to do it before an oil change suggests that it can work it's way into the oil system........ that's got to be nasty stuff, just what the doctor ordered

I'm planning the Induction clean first, run the car for a few days, change the oil and then remove the Turbo, that way the new unit has only clean to deal with  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I'm talking about this being drawn into the combustion chamber...

Me Too !

Horrible sticky soft squishy black curd that sticks to everything....... I want it gone......... but without the need for a complete engine change

My EGR's been replaced with a much simpler arrangement

But I recon that the intercooler wont be too healthy or any other parts of the induction system.... there must be a way of dislodging it all, so it can be burnt up and spat out........ Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

what I think mikey is getting at is that though you may like all that crud dislodged the top end, of your engine won't enjoy eating it. If you want to clean the intake pipes and suchlike, then take them off and clean them, or better still replace them with some new silicone ones.

Not sure if its possible to clean the intercooler out on the car, but could it not be disconnected, bunged, and filled with some cleaning solvent, then blown out to get the rest of the crud out?

Once this is done a dose of injector cleaner through the system? There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Yes I can see what you are saying.......... but it's not like I'm the first to think about this method of cleaning........ you, yourself say use injector cleaner, which I wont as they were cleaned on a rig less than 10K ago. The fact is the oil/carbon build up that is present is combustible provided that it's dissolved in a solvent. So the engine will not be eating large sticky black boulders, rather it will be running on an oil rich mix for a few minutes.

To clean all the air ways on my engine would require the head off, which I'm not prepared to do, rather take a chance on the cleaner and if it blows the engine up then take the head off.

I've seen posts on here about TerraClean, and how good it is, so what's the difference, other than I want to clean the air ways and not the fuel path?

I don't for one minute expect any cleaner to restore my engine back to as new condition, but I would hope that it could improve the air flow........ Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I have done the clean-out on my TD6 before fitting the EGR blank to stop it from reforming. I have to say it was the most disgusting task I have ever done on a car. The black goo is like indelible ink whatever it touches turns black. So here`s what I did. Remove the intake manifold which is very simple. Take note of where all the rubber seal are and dont lose any down an orifice. Get some disposable rubber gloves. Once off use whatever you can to dislodge and clean the accessible areas then hit the insides with oven cleaner, the foaming type. Leave overnight then take to an area of you garden you dont like and blast it with a jet washer. I had to do this twice but the end result was a lovely clean intake and a big black patch in the garden. I also made a little scraping tool that would reach into the head and I could scrape the crud up and out with an old vacuum helping clear and bits that were ready to drop. I could not get over the thickness and amount of that disgusting muck that was choking the engine.

I presume you have fitted the vortex breather?
If you change the Turbo are you doing it yourself, If so are you getting a new turbo or rebuilding with a cartridge?

This Video will give you an idea

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCjO8JThVpo 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Air flow is not such an issue on a forced induction engine. Any gains you do see would be negligible, almost placebo

I cant comment on placebo or not on my car as I did several things at once. What I can guarantee is that blanking the EGR, Cleaning out the intake gunk, fitting a vortex breather, a go faster pipercross air filter and a cheap ebay tuning box transformed the performance. The average fuel consumption also dropped from 12.8 litres per 100k`s to my now long term average after 10000klms of 8.6ltrs per 100kls. My car was very neglected when I got it so just changing oil and filters might have helped as well. If starting from scratch again with the car I would definitely do it again. 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

I would take out what you can, and clean it out with some diesel and brake cleaner, then let sleeping dogs lie... Much of that matter may be combustible but there'll still be a nasty load of abrasive matter there that would be best not entering the engine in any large volume. Maybe try something but take it gradually.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Surely the mucky contents of the manifold and the rest of the induction system were intended by the manufacturer to pass through the engine as part of the normal combustion process. Where would any abrasive material come from?
The mucky deposits result from the egr system and together with filtered clean incoming air are normally passed through the engine with the unfortunate result that over the years the manifold in particular becomes lined with the obvious oily mess.
I don't really see why the inter-cooler and pipes should be affected. Having cleaned out a few inter-coolers in the past I have come to the conclusion it is generally a waste of time, any I've done have always been fairly clean. Same with the connecting pipes.
I would personally take the manifold off and clean it out but I'm not sure miggits idea of dissolving it over time and burning it through the engine is such a bad idea. That's what it was supposed to do in the first place. My only concern would be that it is likely deposits would still tend be left in certain areas hence the reason I would take it off.

Quote:

Surely the mucky contents of the manifold and the rest of the induction system were intended by the manufacturer to pass through the engine as part of the normal combustion process. Where would any abrasive material come from?

Intended, yes, but still at detriment to the engine, and most significantly, only gradually. I don't see that it would be likely to cause issues to remove it slowy, but if measures are too "effective" and the dislodge it in lumps it wouldn't be appreciated. All that soot build up contains plenty of nasty stuff originating from the fuel, oil and perhaps even the engine itself. To an extent it's all the soot itself that's abrasive - harmless enough as hydrocarbons in the fuel but once separated it nucleates and into more damaging particles.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

I only asked

As for why, when I fitted the EGR up grade I did notice that the pipe from the intercooler had a good coating of the black sticky stuff, and running on the logic that my Turbo's bearings are on their last legs, and that I'm now loosing oil but have no leaks.

I can only think that the oil is escaping from the turbo bearings and being blown through the induction system and out the exhaust....... which could lead to a melt down of the turbo and engine scavenging oil from the system

The squeak from the turbo happens when it starts to spool up and you then lift off the throttle...... instead of slowing down with the whistle that a Turbo normally does, mine squarks, moans, rumbles and generally sounds very unhappy.

wayneg, Neither I'm sending the Turbo to a Garrett agent who's going to rebuild it with proper parts, not going to risk having a turbo cassette from Ping Pong fitted  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

If you're prepared to remove parts I've read oven cleaner works well.

I used Revive to clean out the system on my tdv8 at about 240,000 km. I plan to get it done every 10,000km now. Lots of black smoke came out the back when 1st done. The engine was quieter and smoother, and had more power. Nearly 10,000 km later nothing adverse. ______________________________
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