I would bet the ones using it to play horsey or doing motorway trips all day are well outweighed by those using it for commuting less than 50miles a day.
And yes you could stick a towbar on it and tow up to its train weight but then its just like an FF that it will consume more juice to power that train along. Although when you brake you will recover more energy back where as an FF just wastes it as heat...

How many people would tow a horsey box behind a tesla or a tintent? those that get them tend to hotel and such i'd imagine.

The superchargers also give you upto 3hrs driving from a 30min charge... You gotta be doing an average of 20mph to cover 60miles in that time (FYI their 30min charge provides around 170mile range)
https://www.teslamotors.com/supercharger
All are 4wd so that takes care of traction offroad(tyres dependent). Unless you cheap out and go for RWD only

Dont forget with a Fiska you'll have to carry around some marshmallows and a stick in your manbag

I think more than a fair few will use the FFRRs/LRs to travel longer distances. Even if many don't do it often, many will want to use them for a holiday or road trip. It's what they do best.

kingpleb wrote:

To be honest it depends on how the UI is setup and the processor on the back, i very much doubt its based on a cheap £100 tablet from ebay.

My complaint with them is not so much down to processor speed (though that is an issue), but very much the UI.

For example, when my FL2 was written off, we were given a 2013 one on hire. To change tracks on an MP3 CD in my old one, I'd simply use the wheel to scroll through the folders, and press to select - very simple, very quick. It was most annoying, when to do the same on the 2013 one, I had to go through menus on the touchscreen, also having to interupt the navigation (which, admittedly, I rarely use), to do the same thing. The fact it was slow to respond added to the issue.

The thing is that I want the UI to be set up in a virtually permanent state (screen burn alert...). I want stereo and climate control controls to all be visible together, and to not interfere with each other. Once you've done that, you've pretty much lost any benefits of the touchscreen, so a reliable, tactile button is then always better, IMO.

miggit wrote:

By using a screen they can run most of the wiring in thin wire and save on cost, but there is a flip side, in a simple system with a micro switch you still need a relay to turn on the item, and now you have twice as much to go wrong....... add a screen into the mix and you'll have to add an interface as well so that's 3 things to go wrong.... and so on, I have yet to come across a single switch in my ffrr that actually acts directly on the item that its' switching...... is it any wonder why these cars can be a nightmare when the electrical gremlins get a foot in the door ?

Trouble here would be that running higher current/voltage wires around the vehicle would likely mean more interference and electrical issues. It's always the 12v braking systems that cause trouble, and hell do they cause trouble!  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

12v braking system No thank you.........

Brake by wire was the biggest cause of F1 failure this year I thinks.... they'll have to do a lot better than that to get me driving one  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Brake by wire should be a Bowden Cable not a bit of copper  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Not brake-by-wire, but just the switch, bulb and ABS electrical circuits.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver