Has anyone replaced theirs at all as i think some debris from the floods yesterday must have struck the rad and as its 10years old im happy its had a good life.

This has come about from the check coolant gong coming on when i pulled into the carpark this morning a faint whiff of steam coming from the front.


There were some deep waters i went through on the way home and as always the FF performed amazingly

FYI the viscous fan has been gone for years so i have a feeling that will help a little but is it as simple as removing the cowling and the hoses and it will just tilt at the top and slide out?

Also is there an alternative to LR coolant like BMW maybe or ECP/GSF? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Hi kp.
haven't done it myself, but according to workshop manual looks pretty straightforward.
You already have the viscous fan removed so I would say that's most of your battle.
mine was replaced about 9 yrs ago by main dealer, don't know why.
I won't be having a go at it till next year when I tackle the aircon system .
good luck.

Yes it is that easy to remove, if your viscous fan is already missing, it should take no time at all. From memory you have to undo the 2 large clamping bolts at the top, ease the top of the rad towards the engine and lift! I do remember it being a tight squeeze past the intercooler pipes, but it can be done...... In fact I managed to remove mine with the fan and shroud still in place

FYI, when driving in deep water, any dissolved mud in the water will stick to the rad and harden.... and block the cooling fins..... a good rinse afterwards, with clean water under pressure, helps keep everything working as it should  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

If the fan is off, it's a doddle to do

It can also be done without taking the fan off, but is a little more time consuming and fiddly, but perfect for those that don't have the fan removal spanners

Cheers guys.

Just popped out to top it up and must have only been a few 100ml so will have to see what its like on the journey home and see if i can spot the leak, sods law is now i've broached the rad subject it will be a hose or suchlike.

If its the pump or thermostat housing at least thats covered as i had a local specialist fit it. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Any coolant will do, doesn't have to be BMW stuff, nothing special about it apart from the daft price, just got regular stuff in mine, used the long life stuff and it's been fine.... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

True but there are different colour coolants and different types. Think I'll hit el Wiki and check the specs 👍 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Been running on Halfords pink stuff for years/miles, no issues. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Just be warned that OAT fluid and earlier non OAT Ethylene Glycol fluid are incompatible.
Depending on your model year depends on what was put in from the factory, earlier models EG later OAT.
You can use long life OAT fluid BUT you have to completely flush the whole system first, if you don't you neutralise any benefit of putting OAT fluid in and are just wasting your money. Also concentrated OAT fluid should be diluted with distilled water and not tap water especially in hard water areas.
OAT fluid lasts 5 years, EG fluid 2 years.
You can get hybrid coolant that is compatible with both types if you are unsure such as Bluecol 'U' or Universal.

Saint.V8's howto on rad replacement for his V8 is very similar to the TD6 and should give most clues

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic16155.html .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I'm guessing it's EG but I've contacted a local specialist to prove it all up for me as they can usually do it for less than 1/2 day of my work for most jobs they've done in the past so if it's not too silly on top of rad price I'll let them do it Monday so I can try and be back up in the lakes next week to help out for a day or two.
Maybe get squeezed in for Friday or sat morning but doubt it they specialise in M's but do the odd BMW diesel and rr for obvious reasons and have come under quote for two jobs before thanks to me half diagnosing and making things easier. The pump and stat replacement was £75 cheaper thanks to viscous being gone 😄🚙

Plus I have two other cars I need to get sorted so while they do one I can work on another that's waiting for two jobs before mot... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Annoyingly I've been able to have a closer a look in what passes for daylight these days, and the vapour appears to be coming from just under what I'm sure is the egr cooler

Is there a simple way to bypass this or does it involve cutting pipes and joining them with some stainless?

Also how hard is it to remove as it looks like the fanshroud has to come off to get any kind of access 😁 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

See my thermostat howto for accessing the egr cooler

http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=380

Photo 24 onwards.

The area you mention could indicate water pump? (sorry ) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

If it's he water pump I'll be mostly happy as its still under warranty and should mean I'll get it sorted quicker as provisionally booked in for 5th of Jan as they shut down for two weeks  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Update and resolution!

After removing the cowling which I have made easier for myself by getting rid of the viscous fan and coupling the actual leak has been found!!!

A small pipe that runs across the bottom of the rwd and towards what I assume is the gearbox heat exchanger hadn't been fully located back into the clip on the cowling so had come adrift and been rubbing on the AC clutch wheel every time the AC had engaged wearing a neat line into the pipe and creating two very minute holes which then listed under pressure making it look like it was coming from the rad.
After being made £30 lighter by the dealer(surprised it was that cheap to be fair!) it was fitted when the car went in for its gearbox and engine fluid service yesterday and all appears well so far.

Thanks for all the help and advice guys 👍 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.