I did this job recently - like Pete says, you need a 17 mm hex (not a double hex,) deep socket, a 3/8 one on a very short ratchet around 4 inches long to Rachet them out, but you need a tube on the end to the break the tightness, or a 10 inch breaker bar, but it's hard to get the ratchet/ breaker bar into correct position to pull down. When you have done one, then use a chunky flat long screwdriver into a small slot in the outer edge of the torque converter edge against the square hole in bell housing, to twist it round a tad at a time, for a quarter turn and get the other three out this way.
I removed the exhaust first, then the four converter bolts, folded back the tin shields, to show the cradle mounts, loosened those just a little, then at the rear prop mount, I found this difficult to work out how to remove. I'm afraid I resorted to the grinder to get a little slot on flange edge, to get a screwdriver in to push back the prop a little, and sort of force it up ( once bolts were out) this is a tough to do job. It has a sort of spacer that remains on the prop, and you are between this and the gearbox flange. -there is a sort of dome and dish profile that needs to be spread to allow them to slide against each other, I had a screwdriver in there wrestling for a long time to get them apart etc. I had to also unscrew the tin work either side of the prop and squash a bit, to allow the prop to be out of the way, to allow box to go backwards. You can get the front prop out, but it's a fiddly job, with the cradle still bolted in. Then I removed pollen filter housing, and got the top bolts out, these are next size down from the rest of the bell housing bolts. Crack these off next. Box is still held in with cradle. All wires off including the top of bell housing twist on one. Drain the oil, replace plug, and remove and plug the coolant lines. ( tape a latex glove over each one.) you really need two proper wide jacks, not halfords narrow ones to do this, but, using a typical 6 inch cup jack you want one on the sump with some plywood around 9 inches square, and the other jack on the transfer box, ideally with an 18 inch by 6 inch plank or ply bearer to stop jack being off centre. I also had some thermolite blocks and some bricks as insurance should the jacks not play ball... Get the weight onto the jacks, and get the six cradle mounts out. Now be Careful under there. Lowering the jacks an inch at a time, make sure the bell housing is separating, by using a screwdriver to persuade it apart. Feel round that there isn't a rouge bolt holding it in. Try and get it about 2 inches away/apart but still parallel, and the rear prop is to the side etc. if you are. not careful, the box could roll off your jacks, so you want the poles coming out to the side of the car. So you are out of the way,! Drop it down a bit at a time onto a couple of bricks on some old carpet. Get your jacks out, and assuming you have necessary clearance, either push it off the bricks, or just pull out the carpet, and put the kettle on. Simples, then separate the transfer using torx ring spanner. Gentle tap to separate. Oil will not come from either when separated etc.

'Refitting is the Reversal of the removal precedure!'

Hah! Use the bricks you have as insurance again whilst jacking up. When you get it all back in you fill it with a syringe filler, on the off side front fill plug, till it overfills, and start it up and then after about 30 seconds, it will have drunk all that fluid, and want plenty more. I had to check and fill it twice after, as I had a slight clunking noise after I thought all was ok - that started after about 15 seconds of a cold start, until I put another litre in., around 9 litres went in I think. (The lt71141 Mobil stuff. ) Refer to filling advice, warm up car, select through all gears, and with handbrake fully on with car in park, try and fill till overflowing, check through gears, try and get some more in till still running out. Turn off and fit plug without burning fingers/ hand.
I fixed my old box, and I will post a few pics tomorrow on the pc to show how easy mine was to fix. ( 1st to 5 th thump, trans fail error etc)

pics as promised, here you are looking at removing torque converter bolts, with a shortish ratchet, if you put a metal tube on the end you can lever down here, to break the tightness, as use a really short ratchet to unscrew them. with a deep 17mm single hex socket, you get a chance of holding the socket on the head easy enough to get leverage, with a double hex type you have it too loose and it keeps dropping off.

what I mean is that e39 oil pan is different like this

and is possible to acces with 17mm

thank you for great explication, I have a pair of transpallet , one electric to take out , box.
Tomorrow I will try remove four Torque Converter bolts and see what happen , waiting your pics..

It's still possible to do it on a Rangie with the correct tools, it's not easy but it is possible... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

if you have the symptom of pulling away and as second gear should come in, you get a massive thump and you get error transfailsafe mode, and car seems to now be in high gear and little power, then read on. its explained in full here. by RRphil. he is very knowledgable on all matters gearbox. http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...rdown.html

however, I managed to not remove the valvebody and sensors, and carefully removed, 'tower 2' to reveal the same split o ring.
if you drain fluid after standing box each end to drain as much fluid out and then allow it to get to sump, you then remove all bellhousing bolts. noting the short ones.

johnboyairey wrote:

lastly, the rear prop mount I had an awful time with, maybe I should have taken it off. but you need to get a screwdriver in where I have ground off the lip to allow access, and lever it backwards etc.

Blimey John, that's a bit drastic I just gave it a wack with a hide hammer and it fell off enough to get it out the way....

Top job on fixing the box though.....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I took that picture today, after all back together, to show where to prise apart etc. so its still got the bolts holding it together, but I had no idea how to get this apart, before I contacted you, and all was revealed. yes I wish I had considered an early cup of tea at that point.

inform you that today at 1:00 pm another transmission has seen the sun and our 35 degrees celsius,very hot
I have to thank all of you. everything ok.
so, a quarter of wark done ,
johnboyairey: symptom was reverese problem from about one year ago, and now ..get a massive thump and you get error transfailsafe mode, and car seems to now be in high gear and little power, then read on

IN don't intend remove valve body parts
I will post pics

Well done, are you going to repair it or get a new one??? Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

i think that 1st gear is the same gear (reverse) just send backwards, with some epicyclic magic-trickery behind all the main stuff. its worth a punt to dismantle it. if you look up posts from (member) RRphil, he's possibly your man to message about specific issues. but I cant guarantee he will answer.
When you draw out that large piece, (bellhousing off, pump off) minding the speed sensor, it breaks down to three shaft sections. -within the centre section, is the 'O' ring. (of doom!) take some pictures, showing how close those pieces were mated together, and maybe an overall measurement. this will help you to know (when trying to replace) that it's then worth trying to feed it back into the gearbox. Its easy to not get all the clutch 'cogs' onto the drum splines. and the pump wont fit flush, and its either going to need gentle wiggling a little, or your whole assembly it still too long. ie not fully coupled.
You don't need any special tools.(other than torx ring spanners to separate the transfer box). but that is optional. but makes it very hard work!
take your time, and good luck.
here in UK the oil is not easy to buy in shops, but easy to buy on internet. do not settle for 'equivilent' it WILL ONLY be made by Mobil, or Esso make sure you are using correct oil. lt71141 you can buy it in 1 litre bottles, and 25 litre bulk canisters here. you will need about 9 litres. (its yellow from the bottle) If you are not fully filled, you will have issues and noises, and it will 'drop in neutral' when going round corners. ie it will 'slip' and 'grab' with oil starvation.

check you have no pan gasket leaks etc. -After I was happy with mine, I did a further tightening of those converter bolts, to make sure they had not 'settled' and checked pan for leaks, and pipes etc.

lastly, if you have to find another box, although its the same principle as jag and bmw, its the outer case that is specific to the range rover, so you have to go that route. unless you are sourcing internals etc.
also, torque converter is range rover too. it should have stamped on the front face, '107102' -possibly some models of bmw x5 have this type... make sure you do put a new torque converter to front pump oil seal on though.

Last edited by johnboyairey on 6th Jul 2015 11:19pm. Edited 3 times in total

John, whichs eal you mean
tranny work proceeding slowly because I have to take pictures and because I'm still waiting for parts purchased 1 month ago, due incorrect address I must say that until now, imagine harder job
Tomorrow I will start rebiuild but I have some questions before

you have to explain what you are asking a little clearer.
i think you are referring to the 'front seal' between the TC and the front of the pump. its removed by pulling out a circlip type fixing i remember. i have some part numbers somewhere. if the front seal leaks, (as you might have disturbed it and it may be brittle/hardened etc,) you will leak fluid all the time, untill you remove whole box again to replace it. so put a new one in for about £10
i bought this one, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191590158876?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT but while i was oredering the other bits, i ordered another one from the same company. how are you getting on dismantling?

All I used to complete the job,, was the front TC/pump seal, the dreaded o ring, (separate order) two bearings that I was not happy to put back (after inspection), and a filter (& o ring) and the pan gasket, plus the oil.
I used JPAT website, and their diagrams, and from those diagram part numbers, on the phone they translated those numbers to their part numbers stock etc.

yes, John the ''front seal'', I believed that was included on the kit, so I have to buy separately.
What I ordered to Jpat is
1058 298 022 – Overhaul kit
0734 313 181 – Output shaft O-ring
0734 319 520 – Shaft seal
1058 298 015 - friction plate kit for all six clutches is
0501-212-967 - Piston, “F” Clutch
0501 004 925 - filter OEM 'FILTRAN'
1058 298 017 - Steel Kit late 5HP24 - 5HP24A
0736 101 318 - pan screws
N211 23 04 BEARING SET, INPUT REAR TO C CYL 5HP24
and
11 lts of ATF MOBIL LT71141 from Germany
waiting for TCASE and differential Oil
This is the box with t-case out, and as you can see, I put a pallet and than unbolted trans from engine and t case cradle after that raise the car, and trans remain over the pallet
https://flic.kr/p/vpPVdP
Today all parts could be here, hope, and then start the rebuilding operations.
the most important thing for me is understand the cause of failure.
because about 18 months ago, starts reverse problem at warm, and so replaced oil and filter, with no difference, but magnets and oil pan was clear, without metal residues, like now that are very dirty.
https://flic.kr/p/vGdZhV
https://flic.kr/p/vpDTYo
https://flic.kr/p/vGrniK
after few months came out trans failsafe message
I must say,that I drove many times with trans failsafe message, perhaps this make worse the friction work.
These are the four TC bolts, that I think damaged from LR dealer, 2 years ago, when he swap the engine.
https://flic.kr/p/vpRvBh
https://flic.kr/p/vpRqPm

working with these high temperatures, really hard.
https://flic.kr/p/vq3kek
so bring everything on to the basement, where start now tranny dismantling.
Can i clean interior parts and if so how

looks like you are suffering in that heat !!
obviously take your time, and be careful not to spill fluid out on your driveway etc.
i cant comment on what parts you have ordered, but seems you have got plenty of parts. but post your opened box pics here soon. if you are changing clutches, you may need to have use of a press..... possibly, to enable fitting circlip........ not sure on that though.
also, your pics are links, not easy to look at.
if you save your pics to harddrive, and then when posting here, scroll down and 'choose photos' then select one, then 'upload' pic and it should (100%) become a thumbnail picture below text box, then click that thumb, it will then post it as a viewable picture on the posting you are typing etc. and will remain, in case your picture hosting subsription ends etc. (links will cease to show etc.)
i wondered if my TC nuts were burring as i was struggling undoing mine, whilst is was doing the job, messaged member 'Haylands' how to get them off and he said same as i posted above etc. (he is at beginning of this thread....)

i hope the refridgerator is well stocked with comfort beers!

thanks I'll post photos directly,
while writing the courier arrived so ended just now to dismantle all internal parts but only a worn bearing I see, the bearing Which separates the B clutch hub from the clutch drum C has worn,

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge