On a slightly different slant is anybody elses tether not broken but too short to fit in to the little holder on the door ?

Mine wont reach and has to swing in the breeze  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Hmmmmm how strange... Shrunk in the Ausie heat maybe?

Well done Geoff, thanks for the tip  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

It's a funny story, comment not lost on me Craig but it still brings a tear to my eye (wallet) 😀 Geoff

Nice fix,have some 1mm black cable in the van with crimps so will have a go when I get chance.

Right in response to you pedants out there I knocked up a Mk2 - after all who sees it except my man when he's filling the tank .
I tried wire but the stuff I had was either too stiff or too thin - the rubber belts are perfect.

Click image to enlarge

Just done mine.
At first, I couldn’t see how to remove the cap cover to gain access but it all unclips reasonably easily. I used a small black nut and bolt; the nut fits nicely and is held captive under the spring in the cap cover.
An excellent idea, thanks supershuttle.  It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)

Thanks - I have this same problem. I have sent payment for the drive belt. Any other bits I need? Or I guess this is all mentioned in the thread

Scott,
As you come from Dorset (the county of my birth) I have posted this morning and chucked my Mk 1 in the envelope, means you won't need crimps just the bolt or nut and bolt through the filler cap itself. Geoff

Thanks Geoff!

Did the mod - thanks Geoff!!

Silly question for those that have done this ... when taking the filler cap outer plastic off it reveals a rusty spring inside between two plastic ends. I had to remove this in order to fit a bolt through with a nut. I couldn't see what this spring actually does so have left it out. Any ideas?

I guess I may need to put the spring back in and use a smaller nut and bolt so it sits under the spring?

When you put your filler cap back on and twist to secure it, at the end of travel you should find “springiness” in the cap which I believe is to prevent over-tightening. The spring in question seems to be part of this mechanism.
I used a short bolt and the nut fitted in the recess under this spring.  It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)

Thanks for the info. This mod has already cost me £1 so I'll simply be careful and not over tighten I think. Otherwise I will need to splash out on a new smaller nut and bolt

OK - spent £2 on proper size bolt and nut (well 10 of them), fitted the spring back in, much better now.

Proper job!  It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)