Have no choice with mine, as swmbo has to have the eas lowered for easy access. She also lowers the electric seat to get out, and raises again when in. So time will tell how long everything lasts.
greg

If I recall correctly, lowering to access height should be done whilst approaching the parking spot rather than when stationary to reduce stress on suspension components..

As mentioned before, it also significantly reduces wear on the seat bolster from sliding out...

Always did it in mine when I had it.... '08 Audi S6 Avant 5.2 V10 with Milltek non-resonated. Vrrrrrrmmmmmph
'59 Ford Kuga Diesel (boring but AWD and 40mpg...)
2007 (07) Subaru Forester XTen 2.5 Turbo. (Roundabouts are fun again!)
2007 (07) 4.4 V8 Vogue (gone)

Yep it's in the handbook.

I'm a bit of a lowerer (if thats a word) when costing to a stop outside the house I hit the button on the door panel. I have to say its when I remember though, because I also am a bit lanky (though not as much as Criag ) and even lowered I still slide off the seat putting additional wear and tear on the seat bolsters.
SWMBO always slides off - raised on not - she must think she's on a fairground ride.  Geoff

And the Semi Aniline seats in your latest car will wear at a much quicker rate too Geoff... It'll be a good habit to get into sir

Good to know about the column function, mine is always on....
Can it be turned off independently from the seat lowering itself? Since I'm sitting high I like the seat getting down and less wear on the leather. Or is the whole "easy exit" eventually hitting the fan....

Thanks,

JJ

Craig

I didn't realise you could switch the column off. In my car (2010 my VSE) when I open the door after switching off, the seat lowers and the wheel moves away and up. It's supposed too do that. I know older cars had problems, but I thought LR had redesigned the column by the time my car came along. I've got a LR warranty, so if it or anything else goes I'm covered. I've owned LR products for over 15 years and always kept them warranted because there is always something that will go.

I too am over 6' and lower the suspension to avoid too much wear on the bolster. My car has semi aniline and looking at the seat base, I'm guessing the previous owner was a big lad who didn't take so much care. The other seats are perfect, the driver's a little worn on the right side.

Java Jungle wrote:

Good to know about the column function, mine is always on....
Can it be turned off independently from the seat lowering itself? Since I'm sitting high I like the seat getting down and less wear on the leather. Or is the whole "easy exit" eventually hitting the fan....

Thanks,

JJ

No sir it cannot I'm afraid

Yup, that's what I thought

Thanks!

JJ

miggit wrote:

SKOT, if you keep refilling your suspension with new air, you will be causing more moisture not less. I think its better to suffer the small amount of moisture in the system, rather than refill it with moisture laden air every time you use the car. Besides which, the moisture trap in the compressor is not of a drain off type, it is more along the lines of silica gel and will become exhausted in time. This will mean that one day it wont be able to supply enough air to lift the car, then it will be BONG! time, along with the screen of DOOM telling you your shagged and you can't go over 35 MPH. It's a pain when it happens, and the Great God Sod will make sure that your 25 + miles from home went it happens

I'll second that thought, mine was worn out when I brought the car, but I just thought that the slow raising was normal. It was only after it had failed and I'd fitted a new piston ring, that I realised it really was and would need a complete replacement
Having fitted a new pump it will now go from low to high in just over a minute, anything longer than 1'30" and you should be replacing the piston ring asap. And if yours is taking 2 minutes plus, I'd strip it and check the bore before ordering a piston ring, if there are any scratches on the bore then I'd save the piston ring money and put it towards a new pump.
I couldn't afford to replace the pump at the time, so I fitted the piston ring that I'd ordered (before stripping the pump) and it lasted for about 4 months, before it became F U B A R'd and I was forced to fit a new unit. It takes longer to empty the boot and remove the spare wheel, than it does to remove and strip the pump. And if your boot is empty then I'd bank on 30 minutes start to finish. There are a few write ups on here and there are a load of videos on You Tube  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Practicalities aside - they do look "cool" when lowered

If I wanted something near the ground I'd have brought a Bentley, it's a 4 x 4, it's supposed to be high, so you can go were others can't! I want to be above the rest of the world and look down on them  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I have to lower mine to get in the garage so I simply hit the button when I press the button for the door but It has been mentioned here before that the car knows to go to sleep quicker in access height and when they wake to adjust their level they only try to equal out all four wheels not try to actually level to the horizon so to speak.
As an aside my car is on its original compressor and only takes 15-20 seconds to go from access to off road and my last one was the same. 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis