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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > Brake Disc Change

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Vogue

Member Since: 31 Jan 2008
Location: on the hill
Posts: 3785

delamo that was exactly my thoughts when I saw the pics. I had my brakes done 6 weeks ago and they most certainly didn't look like that, even prior to bedding in. Dan no way are those bedded, either the discs are out of true, surface uneven or the pads are goosed.

The discs should have an even bright finish throughout their whole diameter and circumference. Did you refit the old pads by any chance??

29th Jun 2010 10:39pm

dan_uk_1984

Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

2006 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Tonga Green

I took that pic after a 2 mile drive back from the garage, so they weren't bedded in yet. However, now the wear band is solid and uniform. Thanks tho!

D

30th Jun 2010 12:40am

delamo

Member Since: 17 Mar 2010
Location: Beaconsfield, Bucks
Posts: 1121

2007 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Tonga Green

Thats good to know Dan - had an idea you would know what was right, was just concerned, thats all

(Nice touch with the drilled / vented discs by the way - very snazzy!)

30th Jun 2010 1:34am

dan_uk_1984

Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

Good to know you all have my safety in mind!

I did re-use the pads, so I was expecting poor performance for a while and am hoping that's the answer to my shimmy. Will wait another few hundred miles and get the wheels balanced.

30th Jun 2010 8:47am

Vogue

Member Since: 31 Jan 2008
Location: on the hill
Posts: 3785

Quote:
Good to know you all have my safety in mind!

a friend did that and re-used pads that were only a few hundred miles old - he unfortunately ended up with new warped discs.

30th Jun 2010 10:20am

dan_uk_1984

Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

Vogue wrote:
Quote:
Good to know you all have my safety in mind!

a friend did that and re-used pads that were only a few hundred miles old - he unfortunately ended up with new warped discs.

How/Why?

30th Jun 2010 10:40am

Vogue

Member Since: 31 Jan 2008
Location: on the hill
Posts: 3785

a mechanics opinion was that as the pads were only making partial contact over the whole of the disc, this led to increased friction on a smaller contact area and therefore significantly more heat generation than was design intended - which resulted in his warped discs.

If you think about it, it is logical that if the pads are only making partial contact all the braking effort is going through this reduced contact area = significantly more heat.

The warped disc symptoms were significant wobble at between 60 and 70mph only when braking - otherwise it was ok - discs only seem to wobble when braking as the pads are in contact with the disc and it travelled up through his steering wheel quite badly.

Out of balanced wheels in my experience are slightly there all the time, but get slightly more progressively worse through certain speed ranges - braking doesn't usually have an effect on out of balance wheels.

Really hope this isn't bad news Dan

30th Jun 2010 11:47am

dan_uk_1984

Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

Thanks for that, makes sense. However I was very gentle with the breaking for the first 200+ miles so don't think I could have heated them beyond their tolerances. At the end of the day they were cheap discs so they could just be slightly warped already.

I've noticed the shimmy has decreased over the last few days, I was late this morning so wasn't hanging about and can't say I noticed it, but there wasn't any super high speed braking, just country lanes. I'll go home via a fast road this eve and see if I can pick up the shake again.

I think my balancing/tracking is out anyway, so I do need to get this looked at. Along with my lower ball joint on the passenger side has failed again, after about 25K of our roads that fall off into the ditches and leave massive craters.

30th Jun 2010 11:54am

Joe90

Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6419

Just got back in from spending the afternoon changing my discs (no name) and pads (Mintex). My servicing guy identified worn discs last time round. The pads that came off had plenty of wear left, but it seemed a shame to put old pads onto new discs. Discs didn't look too bad - I would have run them on for another 30K but MOT looms.

Safety First

Wheels and discs just "fell off", fortunately there was evidence of copper ease on both.
The allen screw in the disc was missing on both sides, so I have to get a couple of those on order.

I was able to get the pads out without removing the guide bars, then just pulled the caliper carrier out complete with guide bars. Much easier to tackle off the caliper. Unless you have four arms and really strong fingers, don't try "not" removing the caliper carrier and try to refit the brake pads, its just not worht the effort

The brake pad sensor is a fiddle to get off get back on, it seems looser now, but I'll keep an eye on it.

Had to make an emergency trip to Halfords to get the right sized allen / torx for the guide bars (7mm allen or TX45 should do it) and was surprised that the extremely tough bolts (all 4 fought me right to the end of the thread!) holding the caliper on were 5/8 and not metric.

I reused the guide bars, just gave them a good rub down with 1200 wet and dry - good as new

Lots of copper ease used in the refit, I plan to have "Big Bob" around when new discs and pads are needed again!

And thanks for the tip about brake cleaner. Grabbed a can of Wynns brake cleaner, did a good job of cleaning off all the protective muck on the discs and helped with cleaning up the calipers

I also invented the Acme Brake Piston Pusher Inner from a piece of wood, a 2p piece (sorry your majesty) and some nuts and bolts and bits left over from a seat belt installation on an MG or Mini a couple of decades ago. Worked a treat. [NOTE: check you have enough room in your master cylinder reservoir, to avoid spillage and possible paint damage under the bonnet]

Road test showed similar performance to before.......

.
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember

Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Last edited by Joe90 on 11th Sep 2010 12:08pm. Edited 1 time in total

4th Jul 2010 6:46pm

dan_uk_1984

Member Since: 12 Nov 2008
Location: Bude, Cornwall
Posts: 4014

Great Pics Joe90, they were the pics I should have taken!

D

6th Jul 2010 8:52am

elpeede

Member Since: 09 Mar 2010
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 713

2003 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Zambezi Silver

Best 2p's worth I've seen for a while!

6th Jul 2010 1:55pm

Bigbangman

Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 53

2006 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Java Black

Brake Disc Change

Hi, i also have a pajero for my sins as well as a FFRR, on the Pajero brakes you can't push the pistons straight back in as the back flow of fluid could damage the ABS, is this the same for FFRR e.g, use a hose clamp, drain some fliud, push piston back and bleed?

There again i might be completely wrong here, i'm no mechanic !!!

Cheers If its not broke now it soon will !!!

6th Jul 2010 2:42pm

Joe90

Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6419

Re: Brake Disc Change

Bigbangman wrote:

Hi, i also have a pajero for my sins as well as a FFRR, on the Pajero brakes you can't push the pistons straight back in as the back flow of fluid could damage the ABS, is this the same for FFRR e.g, use a hose clamp, drain some fliud, push piston back and bleed?

There again i might be completely wrong here, i'm no mechanic !!!

Cheers

It's a good point Bigbangman. The Rave instructions tell you to undo the bleed nipple and push out some fluid (using tubes and bottle with fluid in it), but I have not experienced any problems with any car, with ABS, including P38A, doing it my way, and not had any warnings form the car re ABS. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember

Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

6th Jul 2010 9:53pm

dantheman

Member Since: 02 Feb 2009
Location: North: Lancs
Posts: 477

No problem pushing the pots back in the calipers - a wind back tool worked effortlessly for me. Probably one of the best tools I have ever bought to be honest:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-40141-18PC-...B000PJ8NLE

6th Jul 2010 10:05pm

Joe90

Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6419

dantheman wrote:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-40141-18PC-...B000PJ8NLE

Looks like I'll have to sort out a "blow mould storage carrying case with display sleeve" for my Acme

.
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember

Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

6th Jul 2010 10:12pm

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