I'm searching the vast knowledge and experience of the forum and it's members for suggestions in my latest RR Adventure.

My 2006 Range Rover HSE 4.4 Jag Petrol 160,000 km vehicle experienced overheating in stop and go traffic at around 27°C and above but I could keep it back down to operating temperature if I shut down the A/C and cranked up the heat to full blast. In regular driving it was fine. I took it into my local Indie Shop and they suggested that there may be debris in between the copious radiators and coolers. Because parts are either exceedingly expensive here if you need them today, or reasonably priced if you need them in a few days, I pre-emptively purchased a new radiator and transmission fluid cooler and, in a "might as well" way of thinking, I also purchased a new non-whining A/C pump and the requisite new condenser.
The shop did the change over and have tried 3 times to "burp" said machine only to have it climb into the red temperatures by the end of the block. Idle speed is no problem but 2500 rpm brings on the heat. He discounts a head gadget problem as it runs too well but is now leaning towards water pump.
Any suggestions or comments from the collective conscienceless that is Fullfatrr.com would be exceedingly appreciated.

Thanks

Greg 2006 HSE

Is the gauge/sensor correct ?? Have you checked the temperature with a contact thermometer, just to be sure.

What are the fans doing (especially the viscous coupling one).

And yes the water pump sounds like a likely candidate considering the overheating is now very fast. The BMW engine had an issue with vanes of the pump disappearing over time, I didn't hear the same about the Jag engine, but it could be, it is 160k after all.

And good that you replaced the transmission cooler, I had a nasty surprise there. I assume you did the engine oil to coolant heat exchanger as well ?? (Again nasty surprise with mine just 2 months later). MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Can i assume that there is a themostat in the cooling system and he has changed that?

Would be the cheapest and most obvious place to start.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

^+1  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

The remote water pump (the electric one )
is worth checking if it only happens on full acceleration
or under heavy load

Thanks for the replies.

The Thermostat was replaced last year and the mechanic removed it to see if it was the problem and it wasn't.

Gauges seem to be working and accurate but I 'll remind him to check them.

The viscous fan was replaced with a Behr unit a few months ago.

It the auxilliary coolant pump applicable on the Jag motor or only the BMW motor?

I didn't change the engine oil to coolant heat exchanger but I'll check on where at is.

Greg 2006 HSE

sorry was convinced its SC

I'm pretty sure that you have the engine oil to coolant heat ex-changer and it sits just below the transmission oil one. Both on the drivers side of the radiator. They are even identical as far as I could see. They are used to warm up the oil quicker to reduce emissions and then keep the temperature in check. The SC has an additional air to oil heat ex-changer.

The early ones were prone to corrosion and fail internally. Because our mechanics put bloody water in the cooling system (without me knowing till a year later, i never needed to fill) on mine corrosion went fast and resulted in both coolers going almost simultaneously.

So in short, don't take the risk. The effect is oil in coolant and potentially vice versa (not in my case, I was lucky) MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Well I picked up the Rangie today and was told that the overheating after it was all put together was due to a thermostat failure. Just goes to prove that you guys are smarter than the average bear.

So they replaced the radiator and thermostat to deal with the overheating in traffic on a hot day plus I had them replace the a/c pump and the condenser while it was all apart due to a whine that went away when I shut off the a/c. So far the a/c pump and the tensioner have been replaced and the whine is still there, although much of the initial noise had come from the tensioner. Now I guess the only thing left is to replace the power steering pump
I should have a totally new vehicle soon, if I keep this up.

Any comments?

Greg 2006 HSE

Thermostat

Is the pas pump fluid nicely topped up? Does the whine increase as you turn the steering Wheel? There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

The whine could be the tensioner wheel. The AC puts more load on it the belt and that could be the extra needed on top of the normal stuff to start the whine. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Both tensioners were replaced within the last 6 months.

I checked the power steering pump and the level was only about 1/4" down from the top and it was a different whine when I turned it all the way over to the stop so I am stumped. The preliminary diagnosis was power steering pump but they have to confirm that. The real problem is that there are few power steering pumps around in North America and if you can find one, they are between $800CAN and $1,000CAN plus install.

I'm beginning to wonder if I'm man enough to own a Range Rover. I always though my Jeep Grand Wagoneer was problematic - at least I can fix that.

Any help would be highly appreciated.

Greg 2006 HSE

And what about the alternator ?? Or the waterpump (or was that replaced already ?).

I think you need to check each roller/wheel/bearing that is in contact with the belt as it sounds like one of them is producing the whine when the load on the belt is highest.

Have you been able to pinpoint the area/location by listening under the hood ? MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

The alternator was replaced already and I think the water pump is the only other pulley on the a/c belt. 2006 HSE

See if you can pinpoint the whine in the waterpump area  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!