During my investigation to resolve an "Air suspension inactive" message on the dash I discovered an interesting statement from Landyzone.co.uk that says:-

A common fault on this model is the failure of the pressure release valve MAV 500010. When it fails it will vent system pressure to atmosphere giving the indication that the pump is knackered. The pressure release valve can be removed as I am given to understand it was only fitted as a safety device during vehicle build in the event the system was piped incorrectly. When you unplugged the electrical harness to fit the new pump you will have noticed a spare 6mm push fit elbow fitting pressed into the electrical connector block this can be removed and fitted in place of the PRV. The PRV is of Norgren manufacture and consists of a chrome plated Tee with what looks like a brass bottle fitted on one end.

Interestingly when you look at RAVE in the front suspension section it has a picture on page 631 of an electrical connector block with the air line connected via an elbow connector clipped to the electrical connector block and NO PRV in site, has any one got this elbow clipped to the connector or removed the PRV as this would eliminate a potential fault in the air suspension system. To replace a faulty PRV if you DIY is £94, the elbow if you have one is free, or to buy an elbow is £2.99................

Click image to enlarge

Very interesting . I wonder if this is a cause of my pressure static when filling error. V8 or else ...

I have read up on this quite a lot. From my own investigation the pressure release value has no real day to day functions as far as I investigated, apparently information from the head tech overlooking this RR3 design was this was put in place as a fail safe item for when the RR's were being built. I cant remember the exact reason however it was eliminate human error and keep the air pressure correct in the system during its build.

There is lots of information on the internet about these values "sticking" especially in cold conditions and over time they obviously endure wear and tear. The fix for this is not to bother to replace the item but as mentioned to use a elbow connector which when I seen on ebay is 3-4 pounds.

I will suggest though to check up the diameter of the clips/pipes as their are different sizes, I cannot for the life of me remeber what the size was but 0.8mm seems to pop into my head however please dont quote me on that.

Hope this helps

It really could explain why I get the error in the cold weather.

In your picture, there is a black straight air line connector attached to the white electrical connector block.

I've just gone out and there is one on mine too.

I've pulled the elbow+valve off and used the straight plastic connector in its place. ( I had to unplug it from the white block )
The pipe from the car looks about 8mm and the pipe from the pump looks about 6mm. The black straight connector has matching sizes and was a straight push in fit. The pipes themselves even had white marks to show when they were fully inserted.
I've also just reset the standard EAS error
I'll report back on whether the error stays away..


BTW ... if it does stay away, massive thumbs up and thanks for finding this. V8 or else ...

Be interested on how you get on, mine does not have the straight connecter as in the picture. I found the picture from another thread, but did find some extra info which makes things even more complicated!!

External Pressure Relief Valve
On vehicles from VIN 106310 onwards, the maximum system pressure was reduced from 13.7 to 11.8 bar (199 to 171 lbf/in 2 ) with the introduction of a new level of software for the air suspension ECU. For systems running with the higher operating pressure, a relief valve in the air supply unit protects the subsequent components in the circuit. The relief valve in the air supply unit became redundant with the introduction of the lower maximum system pressure, so an external pressure relief valve was introduced to maintain protection.
The external pressure relief valve is installed in the air pipe between the compressor and the reservoir, in the front
right corner of the spare wheel well. If the pressure of the air from the compressor increases to 12.3 bar (178 lbf/in 2 ), the external pressure relief valve opens and releases excess pressure to atmosphere.

If you can take the valve out but dont have the connecter ive found this on e-bay which should do the job its an 8mm-6mm Push fit Pneumatic air line reducer

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-6mm-Push-fit...35b9e7dd22

Forgot to mention I resolved my air suspension inactive by replacing the pressure sensor last week in the air reservoir under the foot plate, a job RAVE says you can’t do. Found a new genuine part on e-bay for £29 so cheap fix if it holds out.

It seemed to be the extra cold weather that set it off never happen in the years I’ve owned it but it was exceptionally cold. What I did notice when I removed the old sensor was water in the hole of the sensor which is probably a build up of moisture in the system. I guess if the water in the hole freezes it stops the sensor from working so not really sure if I’ve fixed it until we get some more sub zero weather.

That’s also when I read up on the pressure relief valve as to whether I bin it or replace it, still not sure yet

I had fault code 15-reservior pressure static when filling............

Well, I've not had an error since removing the valve ... admittedly, its only been a few days and not particularly cold, but in the past, i would have expected it to come back by now ( yes, it was that regular ). I've not really been driving it much ( the wife has been ) ... I'm not sure, but i'm suspecting i'm hearing the compressor run less.

Regarding the sensor replacement, yes, I did that too. I also had come to the theory that it froze up in the cold weather due to moisture.

As for the removal of the external valve ... even if things went a bit wrong, by what you've posted, there is a pressure relief valve in the pump which would kick in at the older, higher pressure - so you still have a backup. ( Or did I read that wrong ) V8 or else ...

I have this error messager

I've just removed the PRV. I've used the push fit connector that was attached to the multi-plug, but the fault is still there.
I may invest in the RSW Solutions reset tool, rather than ask the dealer again. 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

Even though the fault is a soft fault ( i.e. can reset itself in the EAS ECU next time you start the car ) The fault is likely still in the ECU. If I understand things correctly:

The EAS senses an error ( pressure static ... )
It broadcasts the error to the rest of the car
Other ECU's listen and remember it and log it ( the headlight ECU in particular)

The next time you start the car

The EAS resets the error and tries again and logs no faults
The car asks all the ECU's any errors to report?
The headlight ECU jumps in and says " hey, the EAS has an error "
The car then tells the EAS " you have an error "
The EAS then tells the car " I've got an error " and tells the rest of the car about it
the headlight ECU logs that error again.

and so the cycle repeats. So even though the EAS itself has fixed itself cause the valve is working again ( or been removed as in your case ) the error is still logged and needs cleared from the ECUs.

Well - thats what seems to happen on mine anyway. I have to reset the EAS and the headlight ECU for the error the clear for some reason.

------------------------------------

Side note: Touch wood ... no errors as yet after removing the valve.  V8 or else ...

Hi there,

Pardon my ignorance, but is the PRV the chrome fitting in the OP's photo?

I only ask because he described it as having a 'brass bottle' on one end and I cant see that unless its hidden inside what looks like a foam insulation / protection.

And is it as simple as to disconnect the two pipes from that chrome fitting and join them using the replacement part?

I cant even take a look at mine cos Im at work and the car isnt, so any help gratefully received in advance of me actually taking a look for real.

And again assuming the fitting is that simple, is it sufficient to just have the ignition off or should I disconnect the connector block as well?
And any other tips / gotchas I should consider

thanks

Yes. Just remove the air lines and connect them together. I've had no faults since doing mine.

Well thanks for the info, I must admit I took a look in the wheel well and it looked pretty obvious so I took a chance and did it.

Reset the fault and touch wood, not a problem since, so thoroughly recommend this if you are getting the 'pressure static when filling' fault messages.

Certainly beats replacing the valve at about £100 or, as was suggested as a fix by my local independant, replacing the compressor at about £550 plus VAT

I had a go at this today, have had the fault a couple of times whilst just driving along minding my own business. IID tool live values tells me reservoir pressure is holding OK.

I bought a couple of these (6mm one end 8mm the other)




Took this out




(You may need to use a pair of pliers around the pipe to push against to help with applying pressure to the collets)


and put this in




No faults registered on start up so will see how we go (Have kept it in the car in case I need to replace roadside ??) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Well that didn't last long. Drive to work (22miles) was fine, but bonged "Air Susp Inactive" within a mile of setting off for home. (Car said 22 C outside temp). I drove it home and plugged in the IIDTool to clear the fault (the same one static pressure in reservoir).

Checked live values: Reservoir Pressure 185 psi, Compressor Temp 29 C, so all seems well there? Maybe its the solenoid problem on the air valves leading to/from the reservoir? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Having fun with fault code 0x74 ! (Static pressure in reservoir one)

Bonged 400 yds from work yesterday, reset, bonged again 20 minutes later
Bonged 1 mile from home this morning, reset, stayed quiet til work.

For homeward journey, pressed hold button once car had started, no bong 400 yds on, once on motorway released, waited for motorway height then pressed hold again, no bongs. Have left "held" in Motorway height for now.

Too much of a coincidence all these bongs having removed the PRV, so will put that back on and retest.

But looking forward to a reservoir and associated valve block strip down  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999