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RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6366

2019 Range Rover Vogue SE SDV8 Santorini Black

Been a few more weeks and due to rain mostly, I've not had much time to do stuff on the Defender, however I finished off the interior of the rear tub and bulkhead tonight.

Bought myself a roll of gel backed carpet from eBay in dark charcoal, was about £15. A can of adhesive spray I already had but they're dirt cheap too. Made some cardboard templates for the bulkhead sides where it meets the curves and gradually it came together.

I have also done the front front of the bulkhead too, so it appears nicer in the cabin area.

Here's the before shot, in January 2012 when I bought it.

Click image to enlarge

And here it is today, much nicer inside, a far cry from the ex army model I originally had in mind (too much of a perfectionist!) You can see the lovely La Salle headlining, Alpine speakers, MUD Side panels and nets with LED lights and curry hooks and the new OE heated front seats in half leather.

Click image to enlarge

Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

11th Jul 2012 8:36am

Simes

Member Since: 30 Aug 2011
Location: Hinckley
Posts: 964

2011 Range Rover Autobiography Black TDV8 Barolo Black

That is beautiful.

Perfect job... What's next?

11th Jul 2012 9:13am

JOKER

Member Since: 11 Sep 2008
Location: Sconnie Botland
Posts: 15876

Amazing the work you are doing Adam , ====================================

"Open Mike Night " sounded like a lot of fun until i found out i was going to an Autopsy

11th Jul 2012 9:13am

Paulo

Member Since: 28 Sep 2010
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 199

Agree with others, fantastic work...

11th Jul 2012 9:28am

Pauld

Member Since: 15 Mar 2010
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 199

2004 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Zermatt Silver

Should have removed the bulkhead.

Performance and Protection do them.

11th Jul 2012 9:37am

T111RDY

Member Since: 21 May 2012
Location: Dunbar
Posts: 187

2002 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

I feel bad now - going to have to dig ours out of the garage, and start putting it back together... l:OolΞΞΞΞΞΞloO:l

2002 4.4 Vogue Java Black

11th Jul 2012 9:39am

NKSC

Member Since: 09 Nov 2011
Location: Lincs
Posts: 156

2005 Range Rover Vogue SE Supercharged Zambezi Silver

Looking Good!

11th Jul 2012 9:52am

RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6366

Pauld wrote:
Should have removed the bulkhead.

Performance and Protection do them.

I couldn't do that on mine as the ECU and main fuse box have been relocated to the bulkhead at some point, otherwise I would have done it. Also, I'd have nowhere to hide the Alpine sub! Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

11th Jul 2012 10:01am

RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6366

Simes wrote:
That is beautiful.

Perfect job... What's next?

When its warm and dry enough, painting the chassis & axles with a few coats of Hammerite satin black and then a waxoyl spray, plus clear waxoyl in the cavities, chassis, door frames, bulkhead etc.

At some point I need to get the heated seats connected up too. Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

11th Jul 2012 10:03am

Bellini

Member Since: 11 Jan 2012
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2261

2007 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

You're giving me more ideas for the loadspace area of my 110 with that carpet.

And the LaSalle headlining. And the ICE.

You're a bad man, Adam!

Mind you, my 110's booked in maybe next year for a galvanised chassis and new doors. She's cost me a small fortune this year already on engine, exhaust and brake upgrades. Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

11th Jul 2012 11:18am

jez000

Member Since: 17 Apr 2009
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 739

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Bournville

Great job, that looks very tidy 2021 P400 Silicon Silver AB
Gone 2011 Bournville TDV8 VSE
Gone 2008 Black Canadian HSE LUX

11th Jul 2012 1:33pm

duckworthparts
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Member Since: 30 Jun 2011
Location: Market Rasen, Lincolnshire
Posts: 5217

it looks great Adam You can paypal direct using - www.paypal.me/duckworthparts
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Supplier of Genuine Land Rover & Jaguar Parts For All Models

11th Jul 2012 3:05pm

RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6366

The rain has stopped!

I got to fit my latest bolt on....nice shiny alloy steering guard. Was SO easy, not as fiddly as some on Def2.net made out it might be.

Click image to enlarge

21st Jul 2012 3:06pm

RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6366

Have started painting the chassis and axles with Satin Black Hammerite now - the smell reminds me of my Series 3!

It's looking nice, but it's mostly about peace of mind.

I also have finally done the heated seats I did a full post on the Defender forum so I shall copy and paste it in here:

Finally, the heated seats are done and working. I know that a few people on the forum have asked about wiring these up and I was going to get someone in to do mine but was encouraged to have a go.

Here's a summary of what I did and my recommendations:

Step 1: Get in touch with forum member PaulMc and ask him to put together his heated seat kit. Paul's knowledge is amazing and he has the skills and know-how to put together a kit that looks as OEM as you can get. Paul can probably supply more parts than I asked for as I'd already sourced the switches and connector blocks that plug into the back of the switches. My kit was about £32 but obviously the more you buy the more it is, and Paul's charges are very reasonable and the quality superb.

Paul will send you these items below (Note I bought my green switch connectors elsewhere but he can get them too)

Click image to enlarge

Don't forget you will also need the actual switches themselves that go in the dash panel. I got mine from Dan @ Duckworths, they look identical but for some reason one is £6 and the other is £26. Go figure. I'm sure PaulMc can supply these too. These look like this:

The green switch blocks need adapting for the switches (LR don't seem to make it easy) All you need to do is slice off the ribs on one side. If you do a trial fit with the switches you can see where it doesn't quite fit. Here is a close up shot of one I have already sliced with a stanley knife.

Click image to enlarge

I started at the seat end and fixed the body clip behind the seats. here you can see the end male connector that plugs into the seat connector and the body clip which will keep it looking neat and tidy.

Click image to enlarge

I found that a 9mm hole drilled was the easiest way to mount the body clip.

Click image to enlarge

Then put the body clip in and then connected the seat up.

Click image to enlarge

I did the same for both sides and then started to route the sleeved cables under the matting and towards the gearbox tunnel.

Note that if like me you disconnected the seat base connector from the seat back connector, they are colour coded with some yellow tape. Just put the 2 yellow ones together and you are left with one to plug into the new loom you have from PaulMc.

Click image to enlarge

As I routed the sleeves forward I continue to hide it under the matting and over the top of the gearbox tunnel.

Click image to enlarge

Once over the gearbox tunnel I routed the sleeves up the centre of the bulkhead, there is a gap inbetween the matting that goes up behind the fuses.

Click image to enlarge

Once the wires are up behind the dash they can be pulled through the stereo aperture and you can get to wiring stuff in. I started by putting the fuse bar feed in. In theory this should be placed in fuse No 33, however mine didn't have any power cables in the fuse bar after fuse no 32 (heated windscreen) so I decided that as I didn't have a heated windscreen and was unlikely to get one, I would use this fuse instead. The green cable you can see here is the positive feed that will go to the switches.

Click image to enlarge

Once all the wires are fed through you can start to connect things up. Paul gave me the following advice about which wires and where to go in the back of the switch blocks.

The switch connectors are wired, as follows -

Terminal 1 - Live in from fusebox

Terminal 2 - Dash illumination

Terminal 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Terminal 5 - Earth)

Terminal 4 - Live out to seat heaters

Terminal 5 - Earth

If you look at the hinged terminal lock on the back of the switch connector, the terminal numbers are moulded into it.

They're also on the switches, by each pin.

On the factory installation, both seat heater earths go back to an eyelet bolted to the bottom panel of the driver's side under-seat locker (the one with the engine ECU in it). The earth point is C0809 - if you have RAVE.

As your cables are sleeved up to behind the dash facia, you could take the earths to an earth header, or the main earthing point on the bulkhead in the engine bay - C0550, or it's mounting bolt - C0434

You could just unsleeve the earths and take them to an earth point on the seat box.

In the factory installation, illumination and earth for the switches is taken from a distribution header behind the facia - C0296, the wires from which, also have inline splices in the loom to split the illumination feed to more than one switch.

C0296 is a peculiar little Blue header connector, that isn't easy to connect into.

Personally, I've used a Sumitomo 20-way header splice connector as a distribution point for additional switch illumination lives and earths (I have these listed on the 'for sale' board) but, for only a couple of additional switches, this is probably a bit over-kill.

You could do as you've suggested and take both switches illumination and earth from another adjacent switch.

The switch illumination is LED, so each switch only draws a tiny current - the wiring to one switch is more than capable of feeding several switches.

The Orange LED that shows that the switch is 'on', is fed from the output side of the switch, so it will light-up when the switch is pressed-in, regardless of whether the seat heaters are actually working or not.

Click image to enlarge

I found a good thick earth cable from another switch behind the centre dash for the earthing of the seats and switches, and also took a feed off another switch for the switch illumination. They all seem to be colour coded the same, a sort of 2 tone orange.

I found the hardest part was crimping the terminals that go into the back of the switch blocks, but only because I didn't have an expensive and good set of crimpers, I only had a Halfords set. So the finished look of the crimps was not brilliant but it was effective and solid. I almost wish I had just bought a decent set of crimpers though as I like these things to be perfect. Apparently a perfectly decent set can be bought from Polevolt.

Once the switches are connected to the switch blocks, you can turn on ignition and try them out, switch on the sidelights and check the illumination works too. The circuit needs a 20A fuse.

In the dark it should look like this:

Click image to enlarge

There's quite a lot of fiddly stuff to do that I haven't detailed verbatim, but feel free to ask questions, or better still, ask PaulMc! He is a gem and you'd be mad not to use his skills and get the kits from him.

If I had paid an auto electrician I'm sure I would have been up to £100 or more but for about £45 in parts and some labour of my own, it's all done.

Very chuffed indeed.

25th Aug 2012 8:57am

RRUK
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 6366

Not updated this as much as I should have done:

If you fancy a Loooooooong read then visit the original thread over on Def2 - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10705.html

Since my last post I did all the Waxoyling on the chassis and in the cavities, and used the car over the shooting season, crammed it with guns, lunches, dogs, beaters, and it was superb fun.

I had to replace the ICE head unit as the Alpine one kept breaking so put in a Kenwood unit which is better (but cheaper).

It flew through the MOT at the weekend, and I took the following shot using the GoPro Her3 I bought recently. Great interior shot.

Click image to enlarge

Here's a few pics of the Defender out doing its stuff.

Click image to enlarge

Compared to the Range Rover, it's slow, noisy, cramped, not luxurious, basic and totally unrefined.

BUT, its been such good fun to use, and today was my last day's shooting, and in the snow too. I think I enjoyed it more today than I ever have, was just brilliant. OK, the windows get steamed up, it crashes about a bit, its slow as hell (when compared to a TDV8 with 315BHP) but its awesome fun and every journey is an event.

Here's some pics from today. Great to see it being used after all that work and WOW those heated seats were SO worth the effort in the end

The view from the inside out:

Click image to enlarge

Always knew the roof lights would come in handy, using it to light up the inside of the barn where the birds are hung up so we can pick them at the end of the day: (Father & Brother ruining the shot there)

Click image to enlarge

Edited down a small section of the GoPro footage and slowed it down. Should have switched off the audio and the TD5 sounds bad at low speed.

I know I am not off-roading like a pro, the whole point was to get the car reacting to inputs to flick mud about for slow-mo filming.

It was still in Low 2nd though, and no I didn't have Diff lock on when I crossed the ruts.

Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

19th Feb 2013 1:48pm

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