I hope so, or another problem is lurking, but that would be negative.

Adam

Didn't want to start a new thread, posting this here.

I've tried:
A new FSR
Checked FSR wire
Checked fuses 12, 25 , 61 and 64
Manually spinning the fan
Manually spinning the fan with the A/C on
Checked for faults with All Comms and there are no faults recorded.

All have failed

For the last month of it working, there was the dreaded squeaking at the slowest speed..

so ... is there anything else to try ? Dash out job is a no-go. The funds don't exist

Fuse 34? 7.5A

Tried fuse 34 to no avail

The FSR gets warm when the fan switch is on which I'd imagine it should do by design. Meaning the problem is elsewhere

What I would do is test the motor as follows.
Undo the connector plug from the FSR and very carefully with a paperclip or similar bridge the Yellow/Green cable connection on the plug with the Black/Green cable connection on the plug.
This should make the blower fan run at full speed. You don't need the ignition on.
The Yellow/Green is a direct feed from the fuse and the Black/Green is a direct feed to the motor by-passing the FSR.]
Just to make doubly sure you should also connect the Red/Green in the plug to earth at at the same time, I'm not absolutely certain the earth to the blower motor is still connected when the plug is pulled from the FSR. If the blower doesn't run I'm afraid it points to your blower fan motor being faulty.
Unfortunately blower motors can give up eventually usually caused by intake damp air causing corrosion. They appear to be impossible to lubricate to prolong their life.
I've just replaced one on my wifes 3 year old car for that very reason, fortunately VW install that particular fan so that it can be replaced in about 30seconds.
Lets know how you get on

No luck

I'll try a disconnect / reconnect of the battery on Saturday, Cheeks squeezed on the reconnect part for extra luck

Hopefully cleaning the battery terminals and connector will have some results..

thanks for the help!

UPDATE: Half a year later...

The fan has not worked since before my last post 7 months ago and only now have I saved up £1k for getting it fixed thanks to other things having more priority. I was going to book it in for next week for repairs too!


Today, driving along quietly, the blower comes on full power! After 30 seconds of great joy, I try turning it down but the control doesn't respond

The fan stays on even when the key is taken out.

The first thing I did 6 months ago when the fan stopped working was to change the final stage resistor.

- What's the chance a brand new FSR could break instantly?

Previous FSR was also new and only in for 3 months.

What are my options? Worth trying another brand new FSR? The fan definitely works so I can't think what else it could be

Fuse 64 is the only way to turn it off for the time being.

Any suggestions appreciated

If you still have the FSR you took out as being faulty you could try refitting it in place of the "new one" and see what happens.

Replaced the FSR with the old one just now, everything worked as it should again,, speed control and all.

Took the key out, put it back in and no fan again


Blower motor works, FSR works, what else is there to try?

Why would it work for 2 min and then stop

Interesting.
The most obvious thing appears to be a dodgy connection somewhere.
A likely culprit is the plug connection to the FSR as when you disturbed it everything worked again.
I'd be inclined to keep plugging and unplugging the FSR and again see what happens.
Sorry to be so vague but at least you appear to have proved the fan motor is ok.

I don't think it's a dodgy connection as it would stop, start and work at the desired speed before I took the key out. Key back-in 2min later and it's back to how it was.

Starting to think it's an ECU problem however the old FSR sends the fan at full power. Highly unlikely to be the connectors.

One possibility could be the working FSR doesn't sent enough initial current to the fan to get it to unstick, however I have tried manually spinning it when on with no results.

If the fan doesn't spin after x amount of time, would an ecu stop the power?



Edit:


Plugged in the All Comms

HEVAC:

Left heater Air temperature sensor fault <- engine temp or A/C? I could unplug this is I knew where it was

Body Control unit:

Open circuit activations SIR DRM 2 <- brake sensor? (shows up on dash: check brake pads)
Driver door mirror horizontal motor: Open circuit
Driver door mirror fold in motor: short circuit
passenger seat angle: short circuit
passenger seat depth: blocking above <- that's just my friend who's over weight
passenger seat top of seatback: blocking above

Seat sensor module:

Hall sensor supply short to ground or open circuit

As long as you are satisfied it's not a bad connection I would put the "new FSR" back in. Set the speed control knob to max and switch on the ign and see what happens.

No luck, I've tried full speed before ignition on. Check all fuses and checked the FSR connection. The FSR is slightly warm so it's receiving power and I know the fan works along with the controls.

The ECU for the HEVAC reports a temperature sensor fault with All Comms, I can only assume it's deliberately disabling output to the FSR.

Looking at the diagram of the system, the ECU is the only other piece left that could be at fault.

Handing this over to the garage


In the mean time, I could replace fuse 64 with a 12v dimmer switch and use the broken FSR

Could of course be a faulty rotary fan speed selector switch.
You seem to have checked everything else.

I don't want to be one of these people who leave this thread without an ending, I know there will be people finding this on google by looking for solutions to their own problems

This was finally fixed with a new blower motor

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post171844.html#171844