Got two faults on my TD6 recently:

-- The battery/ignition light on the dash is staying on for maybe 30 seconds or so after starting the engine, then goes off. The battery voltage actually rises to 14.0 - 14.2V within a few seconds of starting and stays at that voltage if I switch lots of electrical things on, so I think the alternator is probably OK.

-- Usually get a suspension fault error on the dash just after starting. Reading the error codes with my IIDtool, getting an error "C1B18-62 (6C) Supply voltage x-ref check - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure". Looking at live values for the RLM-Suspension control module voltage, it is only reading 9.55V - but don't know if this is normal or if it should be the full battery voltage.

Anyone seen this before? Battery is getting on for 5 years old so wondering if it is time for a new battery, even though it starts the car OK. Battery voltage usually settles at 12.4 - 12.6V if the car is not used for a few days.

Thanks for any pointers!
Stuart

Things developed further today. Decided to do a 'hard battery reset' on the off-chance that it helped. Got everything connected back up, key in ignition, switch ignition on, just the ABS and air-bag lights come on on the dash, then after a few seconds the other dash lights and fuel gauge come on. Try this a few more times and got to the point where none of the dash was working at all. Check the voltage on the fuses in the passenger fuse box, and many of them are only ~10V. Check the circuit diagram and these are the fuses on the IGN output of the ignition switch. So looks like the ignition switch suddenly gone kaput. Bodged a separate switch between a couple of the fuses in the fuse box to bypass the ignition switch, and everything works perfectly - no battery warning light, no error codes. So a new ignition switch on order and a look through the ignition switch replacement how-to in the wiki.

good bit of detective work there..

hope the switch install goes ok... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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