Ahh, to copper grease wheel nuts or not, I suspect that’ll divide opinion!

Personally I do apply a light coating to aid future removal with no apparent adverse effects.

I also spray ACF50 under the stainless cap to try & keep the moisture out to avoid them corroding / swelling.

The threads should be dry at 140nm if you put on grease etc you will over torque them

Apply a small amount of grease to the hub spigot and associated wheel spigot bore before installation. Make
sure the grease does not come into contact with the vehicles braking components, or wheel studs threads.
Failure to follow these may result in personal injury. 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

JCW wrote:

Ahh, to copper grease wheel nuts or not, I suspect that’ll divide opinion!

Personally I do apply a light coating to aid future removal with no apparent adverse effects.

I also spray ACF50 under the stainless cap to try & keep the moisture out to avoid them corroding / swelling.

Kot wrote:

The threads should be dry at 140nm if you put on grease etc you will over torque them

Apply a small amount of grease to the hub spigot and associated wheel spigot bore before installation. Make
sure the grease does not come into contact with the vehicles braking components, or wheel studs threads.
Failure to follow these may result in personal injury.

hmm tbf torquing to 140nm and probably plenty of room to overtorque given how tight they were before.

I mean I literally had to deadlift the breaker bar with both hands for some of them.

i sprayed with WD40 for now. tbf just leaving at 140nm will probably be enough. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

Kot wrote:

The threads should be dry at 140nm if you put on grease etc you will over torque them

Apply a small amount of grease to the hub spigot and associated wheel spigot bore before installation. Make
sure the grease does not come into contact with the vehicles braking components, or wheel studs threads.
Failure to follow these may result in personal injury.

+1
There is a lot of force going through these studs with these big wheels (some other 4x4's have 6 studs). If you grease them they will not be secure and the torque needed to secure them with grease with stretch the studs. If you are worried about them seizing just go round them every so often loosening and retorquing them. Infact you should be doing this anyway on any car. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

tbf ive never had this problem with any other car.

so maybe it was just someone having a good time with an air gun and not torquing to spec. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

Were they tight due to over tightening or due to corrosion? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I'd say both.

There was defo rust and it was clearly way past 140nm Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

Breakaway torque is higher than tightening torque, there is a calculation based upon many factors, I'd guess it's north of 180Nm for Landrover wheel nuts.
Sometimes the corrosion between the split washers can be the source of higher than normal breakaway, sometimes its alloy corrosion on the wheels binding on the nuts.
Lubricating threads that are specified to be dry can lead to excessively over-torquing as it removes the friction, so you can go past the elastic point of the stud into plasticity (where the thread is permanently stretched, and the structure of the metal changed). Repeatedly torquing without releasing previous torque can also lead to over-torquing, temperature changes can also have an effect.

@Pheonix:

Very well explained

No kind of lube has any place on the studs, -period. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Thanks, some manufacturers (Audi for one) do specify a lubricant for the wheel studs (or bolts, I forget which they have), it's not any old grease or oil though, and the torque is a bit lower than other VWG vehicles that use the same parts for the hubs & nuts/bolts.
Years ago, I came across a dry corrosion inhibitor that was claimed to not alter the friction properties of threads, it had a NSN so was clearly used by the military somewhere in NATO - and had presumably been assessed to work as advertised. It was a grey colour, I don't think it was graphite based though.

Well I guess when I've got wheels off I'll give em a good clean and torque em right and probably acf50 the wheel nuts to avoid swelling.

But tbf they are brand new wheel nuts so if they last another 170k be fine Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

If your worried about corrosion on the threads, it might be OK to use a low-strength Loctite type product as a barrier, however this would need to be researched carefully: in its liquid state I suppose its still acting as a lubricant, however poor.

Best answer is to periodically loosen & re-torque as suggested above, and leave dry. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Tbf this car was next to the seaside before. Now its in the heartland of Leeds. So unsure if rust will be hte same type of problem here? Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

will that panel you're selling not fit in your FF...obviously a bit of fettling will be required.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Am guessing it will as a double din. But it won't look as nice as the icebox version. It worked in the RRS because am guessing it was central

Click image to enlarge