This one is quite bizarre. 2010 L322.

The nav/radio display started going off occasionally. Followed by a bunch of warning lights: camera system fault, blind spot system not available, forward alert not available mostly. Occasionally cruise not available and emergency park brake not available. The indicators don't work on the display when this is happening, but they do outside.

A minute or so later, it would come back on. The warning lights would remain until the car was switched off and restarted then all would be well again.

I called in my local indy and had him plug it in when it was doing it. He cleared 50+ faults and said to come back as ASAP when it does it again and hopefully it will display fewer. Well, I had to only go around the block and five minutes later I was back. This time it had about ten faults. All quite obscure he said. He wanted to go and "read up" on them and said to talk to him in a few days. I've been back a few times and he seems none the wiser, so I'm assuming he can't pinpoint it.

Some days it seemed to do it every five minutes. On other days not at all. For weeks I have been trying to pinpoint some kind of common denominator, and now I finally have. It only happens when I am turning right, such as one would on a roundabout or bend. A spirited right turn out of a side road doesn't seem to trigger it. But a gentle roundabout or bend in the road will, without fail. Never left, always right. I can predict it happening now in advance with good accuracy.

The indy did suggest a low battery might be the cause. I charged it up overnight and it did it again five minutes out of the driveway.

Something that may or may not be connected, a few days ago the car decided not to recognise the smart key and wouldn't start. I was lucky it was unlocked. I removed the battery live terminal, earthed it, waited a while, and refitted it again and it worked fine. The next day I wasn't so lucky. The car wouldn't unlock. Using the blade on the passenger door revealed whatever that is connected to doesn't work so I was locked out. There was no warning about low key fob battery as once before, but before breaking a window, I went to LR, got a battery and it worked. It has been OK since.

But still, the radio/nav screen goes off and reboots a minute or so later whenever I drive around a right-hand bend.

As the indy doesn't seem much help, I fear if I put it in the main dealer, they will do that main dealer thing of replacing each and every possible thing it could be at great expense. When in reality, it might just be a loose plug somewhere.

Can anyone shed any light on what might be causing this, please? Can anyone make the connection between turning right and the power supply to the head unit? 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

Last edited by Stuart- on 17th Oct 2022 5:16pm. Edited 2 times in total

Sounds like a loose plug or water damage to the cabling on the head unit or to the instrument cluster ECU, which would cause things like the cruise error.

OR, you've got a dodgy earth point, of which there are numerous and all of these components could be connected to the same one.

For so many errors, i doubt it's much more than that.

But to solve it might mean a dry weekend and taking various trim panels off and having a look. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Last edited by garyRR on 8th Sep 2022 5:23pm. Edited 2 times in total

have a look in the rear near side cubby...thats where all the 'tech' is and i suspect a loose cable/connector/unit might be the cause. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

I'm going to update the topic here till I've cured this in case it helps someone else in the future.

I had a poke about as suggested by Gary and Stan above, but was unable to find anything obviously loose or out of place (other than a green plug near the battery positive terminal I can't see where it goes - if anywhere).

Two days ago, the nav screen went off and the warning lights popped up while on my way to work. As the indy I use in Stockport isn't far away from work, I thought if they could plug it in while it was actually misbehaving, we might get somewhere.

They did, and it threw up 100+ faults. They cleared it, the dash and screens went back to normal and it immediately threw up another 20, then 50.

Their main bloke who is good at this sort of thing was off yesterday, so they suggested I bring it back today for his opinion. However, while at work it decided to die altogether and I couldn't get it running to get home. "Smart key not recognised" it said. I tried a hard reset a few times which has fixed this in the past, but it didnt.

The closest I got was when it lit up like it was going to start but the starter went clack clack as it does when the battery is low. We do Sebo vacuum repairs in Bredbury (shameless plug) so have a workshop there. I tested the battery and it was 11v, a bit low. Had I found the problem? Two doors up from us is CV Parts that do van spares. £108 later I had a proper spec Varta battery. I fitted the new battery full of confidence and still, it wouldn't go.

I had to leave it at work and get my wife to pick me up. In her Evoque. Laughing.

Today I got the indy to call down and investigate. He showed me how to start it when the "Smart key not found" message was displayed (which Google didn't tell me for my particular model). And he has narrowed it down to something loose or disconnected on the camera/nav screen cabling he thinks. The thinking is something is loose rather than faulty per se as its throwing too many faults up too fast. But it will be inside the dashboard somewhere.

Then we remembered something. When I first got the car about four years ago, the blower motor was kaput. As they were dismantling it to fix it, they found something unplugged and evidence someone had had the dash out before. They plugged it back in and the blowers worked again. Big bill averted. We're thinking that the same incompetence by that someone in the past may have left another plug loose, which has finally become looser.

Next week it goes in to have the dash out for investigations to start. Any other comments or thoughts are gratefully received. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

Last edited by Stuart- on 14th Sep 2022 9:51pm. Edited 2 times in total

Hope they find it, keep us posted..  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Something I was going to mention, the method for starting a 2010 L322 that says "smart key not found".

Later cars have a slot under the steering wheel to put the key, this model year doesn't. It's a similar technique, and maybe it's in the Wiki here, but the key has to be in a very particular position and direction for it to work, and there's no slot. I Googled for ages and couldn't find it for my model year. It's easy when someone shows you how.

If it isn't here, I'll happily do the photos and technique on a new topic to advise others. Perhaps Stan can advise if it's something everyone (but me) knows or not. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

Sounds like you are at least getting somewhere with it.

Think the smart key not recognised is here…. Is this what you did?

Yes, that's the position.

But I find putting your foot on the brake, then pressing the start button and then moving the key around in that location, moving it about a bit, is what makes it fire up.

Because there's no slot, there's no exact location. A cm out and it won't go. Move it about just a little, left, right, up, down and suddenly it will fire. There's a small window of opportunity till the ignition switches off again and you need to start over. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

I'm back with a little more info (and an updated title to help others in the future) hoping one of you knowledgeable chaps might be able to shed some light on this.

It's been in the indy for about three weeks now. Slow because they are having 1-2 hours on it here and there. They can replicate the fault easily enough, but can't find the source.

What we know up to now is the problem is on the medium-speed can bus circuit, and it's failing completely taking out all the things mentioned upthread. So what they are doing is unplugging modules on that circuit one by one and trying to replicate the fault and hoping to isolate it that way. This is apparently time-consuming as there's lots on that circuit and much of it is buried.

The best working theory they have come up with up to now is the fuse box, as there's much gubbins behind it that is part of the unit. However, they have to be coded to the chassis number so bunging a used one in to see if it works isn't possible. A new one is over £500 and it would be a punt in the dark. What is putting me off this is they say they have never needed to change one on an L322, so it's not a known thing. They don't think it's the clocks either.

How do you fix a fault you can't locate or isolate? I've found a similar topic here which was the front seat module ECU. I found another topic with similar symptoms that suggested the wiring loom from the driver's seat can short out on the body and cause this. I'm going to pass both along.

I toyed with the idea of PXing it or putting it in the auction, but the PX figure at LR was daft, about £8.5k. Difficult to know what to do next, really. It might be there for months at this rate.

Thoughts and advice welcome. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

According to the medium speed canbus network diagram, there are only 2 connectors which can interrupt the network. They are for the drivers and passengers door modules. I suggest concentrating on those 2 connectors.
There could be a short somewhere, in which case unplug the connector before the driver's door module to see if the fault continues to occur or not to know on which side of that connector the fault exists.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/u...0Speed.pdf

Also bear in mind that MS-CAN (although actually 'low speed' within the CAN specification) will operate with only one 'leg' of the pair functional - and not throw a DTC, so if you are having lost comms on the connection, then it will be on both lines, not just one.
I would suggest that if the physical layer looks OK (i.e. voltage on both legs) then a framing check is done with a 'scope which will help narrow down the cause. It may also be loss of supply voltage to the CAN node, either within the module or a connection to it, which will obviously give a comms error but with a secondary cause.

ETA - whilst I'm not a fan of 'diagnosis by substitution', if they suspect a particular module, it can be substituted to check comms quite happily without having to code it to the vehicle, not everything will work but the comms will be OK, which is what they want to check. BTW, how are they replicating / triggering the fault condition?

Well, I've officially given up.

The car has been almost a month in the garage. I'm sure they'd have found it eventually, but there's a limit to my patience.

As the car is now 12 years old and nudging 100k miles, I've decided it's was time to move on and draw a line under it. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

Last edited by Stuart- on 27th Oct 2022 4:06pm. Edited 1 time in total

HI, I have had a similar fault on our FL2 2008 after I put a new engine in it. The original engine appeared to be seized, so after much flaffing about after the local mobile mechaic gave up and doesn't talk to me now, I bought an engine off of a decent breaker. As the engine is out of a later model, I swapped the engine looms over. All the sensors appeared to be the same part number, but I later found the Sump level and temperature sensor is wired differently. The engine still would not start after refitting the engine! Lots of fault codes, and the Lin bus was down. Previously the engine loom had a broken wire where it crosses the nearside inner wing. I thought at first it was another wiring loom fault. Then rechecked the ECU connections for bent pins. After much thought, I took out the Starter Motor, and found the solenoid had jammed when trying to start. So, I got a guaranteed good second hand motor with guarantee and fitted it. The engine started first turn!. THe teory now is that with a low battery, the starter failed to complete the computer self check and went on strike. I also changed the Starter Relay as well, as I had one suspecting that a contact might be burnt. Like you I first looked at the key module, door locks, but as always its something so simple it makes you want to kick the cat ( I don't have one). Thats why I bought my L322 as I like Rangerovers, and the last one I had was a P38, which died on me, as it did not like its gas conversion.

As an after thought, the original engine was not seized, it was the starter motor.

I've picked it up from the garage now. It lasted about three miles till it went back into restricted performance.

I love the car and I'd rather keep it, but what to do if you can't find anyone to repair it? If there is another indy other than Landranger anyone can recommend near Manchester/Stockport/Glossop I'm all ears.

I'm going to advertise it for sale here in case one of you practical chaps wants it who can fix it. Failing which, I'll PX it when I find the right car. 2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography in black
2018 D300 SE Velar in champagne
Spiffing wheel centre caps, L322 sill repair panels, etc

Hi, this a long shot, but, A worn or faulty clockspring in the steering column can have this fault appear. Your first clue was turning right. I have seen this as a solution on other forums. Try resetting the Steering Angle sensor using Diagnostics. It works with an Autel AP200 Maxi app on my phone with the Land rover add-on. Buy it on the Play Store, or direct for the dongle. When §i recently had faults on our other Freelander 2, which has virtually the same basic coding, I found it would read all the door locks, infortainment system, dashboard, etc. I also used it to program the keys. When I changed a front wishbone, I had to reset the Steering Angle Sensor. I have also discovered that the low voltage message can mean that the main key needs a new battery, not the vehicle battery. Another common fault is the Orange fibre optic cables into the rear fuse box having corroded terminals. Landrover do a repair kit for this one. Hope you fix it, as you obviously like the car.

I see you have it up for sale, We buy any car offer £3650 for this model year, which seems quite low.

While I remember, Matt who edits the High Peak Autos youtube site is keen on Rangerovers, and has a good dealer he uses. Might be useful to get in touch.