Hi everyone,

Noticed today that when I turned the dials down on my climate control the vent temperature reached slightly warmer than outside and went no lower, the AC light was on but it made no change to the temperature, plugged in the GAP IID tool, have Air quality sensor fault...has come back a few times, what does the air quality sensor do?

then went onto live values, with the engine running checked all of the dials functions and all work as expected, then brought up everything i could think was to do with air conditioning:

Don't be too sure about the clutch. Mine is a later car, but the IID tool always shows OFF even when the clutch is obviously on and the aircon is working.....

Of course it may be reading correctly on yours.

Have you looked at the compressor pulley when the engine is running to see if the clutch is engaged or Not?

As above, you should see and hear the clutch engaging, if it's not I suspect electrical fault. The clutch is electromagnetic and only moves about 5mm.
other than that it will have to be removed and probably replaced, I don't think you csn get it separately.
So maybe new compressor time
also check fuses.
Greg

Same again my clutch never shows up on on my iiD either but works fine. 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Your A/C System needs regassing. The pressure sensor is only reading 5.667 bar, which is way too low (when the A/C System is totally empty the sensor will still read 5 bar, which is the default) and the electronics will not allow the system to engage the Compressor. Get it tested and regassed, then if no other problems, the system should fire up okay.
I have a mystery leak somewhere in my A/C System, and have got the exact same readings, info., etc., on my GAP Diagnostics.

Resurrecting an old thread.

My air con has stopped working and I am getting warm damp air into the car. I haven't recorded it but with the GapiiD I am getting a refrigerant pressure just over 11 Bar, which I believe is a correct working pressure.

It is also showing clutch OFF which I believe is not necessarily accurate (from above comments)
The system was re-gassed about 4 months ago and, as I understand it, the current pressure would indicate that there is sufficient gas in the system.

I suspect that the compressor may be the culprit but, before launching into replacement, I wonder if anyone can suggest any other possibilities.

Thanks in advance. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

The 3.6 isn't known for so many air con issues so, rule out the easy things first.

Things to check:

1. Your cabin filter. Clean or covered in gunk/leaves?
2. Check your receipt for how much gas was put in. Its quite common for garages to over-fill these cars because the sticker gives the single and dual zone weights and some garages just assume it's the dual zone
3. Your condensate pipe could be blocked - turn the air con on full and as cold as possible and look under the car for a constant drip of water
4. Check the evaporator temperature with diagnostics
5. If your compressor is running and the clutch engaging (turn air con on and off whilst idling with no stereo on and you should hear the clutch click in and out), it's probably your pressure release valve on the compressor. They fail eventually. The job is a new compressor, if it has failed. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Thank you for the comprehensive reply. Gary

I was with the technician when he regassed and he put the lower amount in. The car was serviced in July and a new pollen filter was installed.

I will follow your other suggestions with fingers crossed but I suspect the compressor has had it.

Regards John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

Is the 11 bar with the engine & aircon on? Ideally you need a low pressure reading as well to measure the suction and a high pressure gauge to confirm the pressure transducer value. If the pressure relief valve was operating, you'd hear refrigerant escaping from the compressor, 11bar is the correct pressure for ~30 degrees with the compressor running so it could be a thermal expansion valve or blocked filter-drier issue, it all depends on the low-side pressure reading. Blocked condensate drains wouldn't really cause any temperature issues, but would give you damp carpets and a sloshing sound as the condensate swills around the heater box.

Thanks Gary, my clutch has been unreliable too. Is this something I can trust Halfords to replace or do you think an independent would be safer? Thanks Peter

If you're sure you need a new compressor, any competent garage should be able to do the job. Halfords may not though due to the time and complexity involved.

The compressor is right at the bottom of the engine bay so, expect the bill to be c.£1,000. £500 part, £400-600 labour, £80-100 air con vacuum, pressure test and recharge. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Thanks Gary, Halfords diagnosed that a compressor would be required. I have realised that £1,000 doesn't go far when you own a Range Rover.....

If the clutch isn't engaging then yes, I'd agree. You can get air con compressors refurbished but ultimately, you're talking about a 15 year old compressor - it's not like it's a 1 hour job to replace so, the recommendation is always to replace with new anyway.

If Halfords said they can do it, then aside from anyone's grudges they may have against them, all technicians are properly trained, there's proper warranty against their work and they're also trained in best practice such as PUTTING ALL THE TRIM CLIPS BACK and torque setting bolts as per manufacturer specs. If the quote seems in the right ballpark and you're happy to go with them then by all means proceed. I tend to keep away from independents now unless they're specialists because there's been so many occasions they just miss off screws, bolts, trim clips, don't put hoses back in their clips etc etc etc. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

I have now logged some of the information from the Gap diagnostics.

The readings have all been taken with the engine running and air con engaged.

I have also listened for the clutch engaging and can hear it. Basically a click behind the dash/bulkhead when switched on.

These are the readings I have, in graph form:




I am inclining to the filter/drier being the problem but, in view of the work involved in doing that it would probably be better to do the compressor at the same time.

Any thoughts on the above graph or generally would be appreciated.

Thanks to Gary and Phoenix.  John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold