Is this small rust bubbles forming?

Basically I fixed one arch no problem 18months ago (touch wood)

Sanded right back primed with a few coats of red oxide and then a couple of filler primer then on with the top coat and lacquer.

As I say still looks awesome…

At the same time I did the other side… a month or so later small bubbles appeared.

Left it 6 months it got worse. I then took it back used hammerite rust converter primed and painted… a month or so later it was back.

This time after awesome reviews I went nuts and bought a load of bilt hamber products.

Firstly I got it back to bare metal. I then applied deox gel with cling film for 6 hours and then did the same again.

I then used a good few coats of the electrox primer and left it for a day.

I then did three coats of their high build primer , left for a day and sanded back until level.

I then bought a cheap rattle can of silver as a temporary top coat before I wasted my time again….

Guess what 4 weeks later… it’s back!

Is this rust or am I going but? It’s such a small area do I need to drill and fill?

You can see just above the bumper some little bubbles

I’m not too familiar with the products you’re using, but to me it looks like solvent popping. 😎🇦🇺

I should’ve said could also be moisture in your airline did you have a water trap on your gun, airline, compressor?

I used a rattle can so no moisture hopefully- shall I just flatten them back and leave for a month to see what happens? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

when i first got mine some one had done it small area of bubbles so took the grinder and cut it right out take a good area out as it will have spread i weld stainless plate back in . and take rear light out remove the grommet push the felt padding back out of the way and pump in a good ltr of wax protector when you have done all your top coats one good thing the bumper shows no sing of rust

Click image to enlarge

Danwilderspin wrote:

I used a rattle can so no moisture hopefully- shall I just flatten them back and leave for a month to see what happens?

oggy wrote:

when i first got mine some one had done it small area of bubbles so took the grinder and cut it right out take a good area out as it will have spread i weld stainless plate back in . and take rear light out remove the grommet push the felt padding back out of the way and pump in a good ltr of wax protector when you have done all your top coats one good thing the bumper shows no sing of rust

Click image to enlarge

just to add the rust is coming up from the bottom if you remove the bumper the bracket that holds the bumper on the side you can just see it remove that and look up that is wear the water is lying and rusting on that return get in there with a dremel and cut a slot it is mild steel . you could get away with fiberglass filler if you can not weld yourself to stitch a patch in . new vehicle purchase
2007 supercharged 4.2 java black .sand leather vogue se trim
previous cars .
range rover classic 200 tdi
discovery 1 200 tdi
freelander 2 2008 hse
discovery 1 300 tdi
p38 4.0 ltr man r380 ex royal support vehicle on v5c
discovery td5 man off roader

hi yes metal and i always use epoxy resin on top of my weld plates a couple of coats then i key epoxy with 60 grit just a key and then on with a coat of bridger gap fiberglass filler and then finish with a polyester filler to shape . then i use 1k prima 3 coats when dry you must put a guide coat over primer best to use black colour to take out any shrinks or low spots be for you base coat . leave guide coat on to dry overnight flat that coat with 500 dry then finish with wet flat with 2000 panel wipe on with the base coat new vehicle purchase
2007 supercharged 4.2 java black .sand leather vogue se trim
previous cars .
range rover classic 200 tdi
discovery 1 200 tdi
freelander 2 2008 hse
discovery 1 300 tdi
p38 4.0 ltr man r380 ex royal support vehicle on v5c
discovery td5 man off roader

I see you're in Padstow - how much 'environmental protection' are you using when carrying out the repairs? are all the repair materials (including the 60 grit) new and unused on anything else?
It wouldn't take much exposure to moist, salty air for a seed of rust to be formed during repairs without appropriate processes to prevent it.

all good down in padstow in cornwall very busy new vehicle purchase
2007 supercharged 4.2 java black .sand leather vogue se trim
previous cars .
range rover classic 200 tdi
discovery 1 200 tdi
freelander 2 2008 hse
discovery 1 300 tdi
p38 4.0 ltr man r380 ex royal support vehicle on v5c
discovery td5 man off roader

I have just used some 400 grit to flatten back and they have disappeared- I will try one more top coat in case it was gas’s escaping Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Yea so they didn’t work it has bubbles up and is brown…

So it seems to be evading all the normal bilthamber stuff that works, it’s only a small section atm 15mm max and and thinking of cutting it all out and that using some fibreglass and filler to fill the hole OR grinding it until it’s super thin and then building it up with chemical metal or the like - is there a better or worse situation here? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

morning take a picture of the new rust that is coming through let's have a look new vehicle purchase
2007 supercharged 4.2 java black .sand leather vogue se trim
previous cars .
range rover classic 200 tdi
discovery 1 200 tdi
freelander 2 2008 hse
discovery 1 300 tdi
p38 4.0 ltr man r380 ex royal support vehicle on v5c
discovery td5 man off roader

Over my near 50 years of car ownership, and a plethora of rusting hulks, may I offer my 2p worth....

As has been said, with rust you have to remove 100% of it to prevent further rusting, not 99.9%...

Unless you cut out the panel back to clean metal it will always come back...

Clean metal means no surface rust on the outside AND the inside.

You cannot treat rust just by sanding down the outside and applying so called rust eaters, convertors etc.

All these products work to a certain extent but they do not penetrate the steel and get to all the rust, they will treat the visible rust on the surface but no more.

If you look at these next two pictures the rust you see on the outer panel is far smaller than the "real" rust area... if they had cut out the small section of visible rust on the outer panel, and put new metal in, then in a couple of months the area next to the small patch replaced would rust through and you are back to square one...







There is a seam just below where the rust develops on the Rangie, there is no way to remove , treat, or prevent this rust from creeping back up the panel and through to the outside without major surgery.

You can slow it down with proprietary products but you will never get rid of the underlying problem.

This is why restorations and "proper" rust remedy is very expensive, it's labour intensive.

If you want to do the best you can as a DIY then remove all the gubbins to gain access inside the boot to the back of the panel, scrape, grind etc all the rust from the inside, vacuum it out, clean it well then use a rust converter. repair the holes which will have been revealed when you cleaned the inside out, then flood the area with cavity wax... It won't last forever but you may get some time. Don't use cavity wax until you have repaired the holes....

 Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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