Here you go:

oggy wrote:

morning take a picture of the new rust that is coming through let's have a look

okay, thanks for that. well, I think that you will have to take a full heart surgery approach instead of the keyhole and open it right up and see what is going on behind that panel. I would remove the rear bumper and remove the plastic trim just above the top of the bumper held on with rivets big head ones. I see you have lost your line on the bottom of the quarter panel you can get that back when you remove that bracket as above explained. I would cut a slot out so you can see what's going on you might be surprised that you will find a lot more rot than you think. silver has always been the most difficult one to do ref paint finish every prep and coat has got to be perfect for the next step. get that cutting disc out. if you need more help just ask. new vehicle purchase
2007 supercharged 4.2 java black .sand leather vogue se trim
previous cars .
range rover classic 200 tdi
discovery 1 200 tdi
freelander 2 2008 hse
discovery 1 300 tdi
p38 4.0 ltr man r380 ex royal support vehicle on v5c
discovery td5 man off roader

Or do the much easier way, which I suggested in my last post, which is to remove the items in the nearside rear compartment in the boot until you can see the back of that panel...!!! Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

In reality, the panel is now rusting from the rear, as fresh paint looks good. And in reality, it started to rust from behind in the first place… so, you need to get some sealing material behind the point where is started. Use gravity and various spray nozzles to inject/coat the sandwiched metal panels. And address the spot welded seam that forms the wheelarch lip. Most bodywork shops don’t do this sort thing properly, they just address the outer visual areas. They promise you a good job, but it never lasts. Even if you have metal welded in, it has to be isolated behind, or the same thing will happen, after time. Remember, fresh words, are bare metal both sides. All rangies rust here!

yes, I would say that is a good shout Pete .you can then see and make sure you have got all the rust that is and then you can get a good load of wax coating in that area from that side compartment just a load off a bits to take out. new vehicle purchase
2007 supercharged 4.2 java black .sand leather vogue se trim
previous cars .
range rover classic 200 tdi
discovery 1 200 tdi
freelander 2 2008 hse
discovery 1 300 tdi
p38 4.0 ltr man r380 ex royal support vehicle on v5c
discovery td5 man off roader

I’ve got a a bore scope I will poke that around initially to get an idea behind the sun and amp etc Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Can’t see much there seems to be a kind of sun cavity with foam behind it I’ll take the amp out tomorrow if I get chance - that’s all I have now I’ve updated the ICE so could be a lot worse Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Finally had a chance to look at this tonight - I got the clobber out the cubby and look at the state of it no winter it’s coming back.
I’ve had a flap disc on a grinder cleaning most along with hand sanding but I can’t get right in the grooves, ironically where it’s coming through so it’s now sat with a load of deox gel on it to convert it then it will be covered in dynax and hopefully that will be the end of the tale…

Needless to say I checked the other side, a time bit of light surface rust but pretty good, it’s going to get a coat of dynax anyway as it has a rust inhibitor