Hi Guy's, please bare with me as I might sound a little stupid.

Ive got a battery drain on my 2011 l322 (4.4TDV8)

Ive plugged it in & got some live data & was after some advice of someone with a bit more knowledge

When the car is running I get the voltage at14.9v and 1 amp current

Switch the car off & I get the battery at 12.10v and -18a (assuming that some modules are still drawing a current)

Leave fort 40 minutes to allow everything to shut down & get 12.2V and -2a

Am I right in thinking that the -2a is still to much as a drain on the battery?

I would welcome any feedback / ideas

Many thanks in advance

You need to do a proper drain check and then you can start to diagnose where it is coming from. I’m sure a search on here will give you some pointers on where to start.

Have a look here, I’m currently chasing one too but as yet no answer.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61968.html

Might give you some ideas though, a 2 amp draw when asleep is way too much Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Ive done the drain test from the battery & it's showing as 0.01A, which from what I can work out is ok.

if the alternator diode was knackered, would this show as a draw on the millimetre?

Ive ordered a new battery which will eliminate that

Thanks in advance

The wipers for the headlight is a common sinner in that area..

My 2012 WM drained its battery twice, in both cases due to a software fault, one to do with locking and the other to do with the fuel burning heater. In each case the battery was fully discharged and needed to be tested when fully recharged to see whether it could still hold charge. The first time no, so replaced under warranty, the second time yes.

So you might want to check for software faults, in my case this was done by the dealer under warranty. Only Range Rovers since 1988

I have a car there with an intermittent drain. And so i think it’s going to be very hard to diagnose. But I fitted one of those battery brain devices in the mean time until I can work out what’s causing it. I figure if I drive the car I can work out maybe what scenario leads to the drain and perhaps find it. Wife got in the car this morning and it had switched the battery off, hit the key fob, the battery turned on and away she went, no drama. Definitely for the £150 seems like it will save a bit of hassle with jump leads and destroyed battery’s… but I will admit I’d much rather cure the problem than work round it… but you got a do what you gotta do.