Hi, following on from my last post, I have taken on the challenge of a diy rebuild of the GM 5l40e gearbox in my 2003 TD6 Range Rover. The box was professionally rebuilt 2years/10k miles ago - and has failed with the same problem again. I've stripped the box and the direct clutch hub has unravelled - again!

I have contacted JPAT who list two - one us 191mm long - the other 194mm - can anyone confirm the correct length please (praying RRPhil is looking 😁). They can't get the 194mm hub - so if it is that one, the box is for the scrap unfortunately.

I am taking photos and will produce a write up once I'm done

There is a fantastic write up by RRPhil that shows the disassembly process and that has been invaluable - so my thanks if you read this!

Hopefully you can get the bit you need to save scrapping the whole gearbox.

If a used one has failed after 10k it's probably not worth trying again with another use one I guess.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

I've measured what's left of the shaft - and it's 191.5mm long - so think it's looking good for the shorter drum. It's really bizarre why this shaft would fail as they do. I've had chance to really look at the workings of the Box, and it would appear to me that this shaft doesn't have any load until 4th or Overdrive (5th) is engaged?

My main concern is have I just been unlucky in having two fail - or is there something further down the drive train causing it? My driving style of my truck can be best described as extremely sympathetic giving I understand the cars weaknesses!!!

If the measurement that JPAT are specifying is between the washer face and the end of the shaft, then I measure it at 190.71mm.

Click image to enlarge

Many thanks for taking the time to do that Phil. The shaft seems to have unravelled outwards rather than length ways (Score marks from the failure - and casting/manufacture marks provide a good reference) - so I've got confidence that's the right part.

I will create another thread over the weekend that details my progress. Your posts (including the multi-part teardown) have been absolutely invaluable, and I wouldn't have taken on the job without them - so thank you for those. I've blown up to A3 the working diagrams from JPAT and they have been an excellent reference as well.

So far - the hardest part of the job has been removing the electric plug on the transfer box (was stuck solid)! The most challenging has been safely removing the centre o-ring in the gearbox. Fortunately I had a set of tyre levers that were a perfect fit - although it took some time for me to realise that!

Once I had identified that there doesn't seem to be any contamination in the clutch plates, I haven't disturbed any of the piston seals. The clutch packs that do easily come apart were all clean and still like new (to my eyes anyway!).

I am taking the opportunity to have the valve block reconditioned with Sonnax valves as I plan on keeping the car, so trying to do the job right. The company you have previously recommended (Valve Bodys UK) who are doing the Valve Body, are also flushing the Torque Converter so I know that's clean as well.

Keeping fingers crossed for a simple reassembly.