Yet more great advice from this forum!

I’m trying to work on bringing this car up to spec, and see it as a project, so happy to plan to remove the plenum for a clean regardless.

@baltic blue, could the actuator arm(?) just be sticking but not stuck? Could it be slow to move but enough to not set off the error? Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

The revised shut-off valve was introduced during MY11 at VIN BA355616 so all MY12 have the revised valve that doesn't stick.

Hi everyone,

I still have this power “lull” when accelerating. It’s getting annoying… but only because I know it’s there rather than causing me problems. (The little turbo is more than enough day to day).

My VIN starts CA so I believe my car is definitely an MY12 with the revised actuator (without the bolt).

Since this thread started, my car has been fully serviced including a new fuel filter (eventually, due to numerous delivery issues) and my hpfp noise is no more (cheers for the advise elsewhere GraemeS!) do don’t think that’s the issue anymore. I’ve cleaned the manifold of all gunk, cleaned the MAP and MAF (both) sensors and double checked everything is secure and fully tightened.
I found a vacuum hose wasn’t attached to the left hand (driver side) Airbox, but reattaching that didn’t resolve the issue for me.

It has been suggested that the vacuum hoses may need replacing? It was a pub discussion, but the suggestion of perished hoses compressing when vacuum applied seemed plausible. Searching for those terms on this forum and google hasn’t found anything so now I’m not sure on that.
I eventually found the vacuum hoses on microcat and then searched for how much to buy… but we are looking at over £300 for the main harness, and £130 for the turbo actuator hose. I’d like to know for sure it will help before even considering those.
I guess buying a load of silicone hose and cutting to length won’t work as the ends have special connectors?

So… any more ideas?

Other info just in case related:
Darth Vader air noises from the left hand intake.
Left foot braking, put in reverse, and rev (not actually moving) and letting off the accelerator gives a “flutter” from the engine. Like a boy racer turbo dump valve… but a few in quick succession.

Both of those have had “they all do that” type responses. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

I’m assuming you have a GAP IID tool and have run a full fault check? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Yep, and all clean (except for the usual speaker related errors, driver/passenger seat, etc). Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Have you tried swapping MAFs to check for any improvement?
How recently was the MAP sensor cleaned?
BTW, the primary turbo is the bigger of the 2.

Is your pcm s/w at the latest level? Mine's driveability around the secondary turbo's cut-in and cut-out improved noticeably with the latest version.

I haven’t tried swapping MAF sensors, only cleaned them.
It’s an easy task so will give that a go in the next few days.

The MAP sensor was cleaned shortly after starting this thread, and again fairly recently. It has also been swapped for another one which was not new, but was clean. Regardless, none of those steps helped with this issue.

I’ve had my EGR mapped out and blanked which has not helped this issue (lots of other improvements) but due to a series of events (another story!) I did have the latest ECU software for about a week before reverting back to get my egr map back. The power lull was there before the egr removal, after egr removal,a new with the latest ECU.

I also have had the gearbox oil flushed, and tcu updated to the latest version. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

GraemeS wrote:

BTW, the primary turbo is the bigger of the 2.

The turbos are sequential. The primary isn't so large that it can't spool up fairly quickly, helped by having variable vanes and the secondary is a helper for higher revs and loads.

I would call them parallel sequential. The larger primary variable vane turbo stays on. The secondary fixed vane turbo comes on additionally at about 2400rom.

Ffrr-lover wrote:

Hi everyone,

I still have this power “lull” when accelerating. It’s getting annoying… but only because I know it’s there rather than causing me problems. (The little turbo is more than enough day to day).

...
So… any more ideas?

Cheers Phoenix,
No I haven’t checked the pressures. I’m little over a year working on cars… before that I did no more than adding fuel and washer fluid to a car myself. I suspect I need some form of device connected to see the pressures… that suggests a garage visit for me unless it’s a relatively cheap purchase.
Same for the vaccum pump too.

As for oil in vacuum hoses, there wasn’t any when I removed the CSOV when stripping the front for pulley replacements. I will however check all hoses again… as that I can do  Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Can I ask, where you got the EGR mapped out? Also appreciate info on how/where you got the TCU updated and feedback on the latest software.

Thanks

I had the EGR blanked and mapped out by DTA London, which is based at Dartford Transmissions - who are highly knowledgeable and recommended.

So far I have had nothing negative about the EGR removal and, based on my research and understanding, it’s only involvement with the DPF is to cool things down when the regen cycle completes. My DPF seems to take longer to fill, and regens have happened without issue.

As for the ECU and TCU, they were updated using the IIDTOOL I have, and the fast lane service from GAP. both were really easy to do and only took a few minutes each. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Great thanks. I'm looking to do the same but also DPF coded out but I'm up north so looking for someone reputable.

What's your feedback on the ECU and TCU updates?

Thanks