Cleared all fault codes this morning. Re checked and this list was registered.

Click image to enlarge

Not sure what a AMR battery is, you need to get a AGM type fitted such a a Varta G14.

I think it's clear that was a typo and AGM is indeed what I meant to type, my question was do I actually need that type (most likely not) and is there any benefit to an AGM outside of a start/stop enabled car

As Pete says, you need an AGM battery for your FF.

On early 2011MY I understand there was a recall to fit that type and later such as yours should have been supplied with an AGM. Someone may have been penny pinching.

If you think you don't need an AGM have a search on here for the topic, it may well inform you about those codes too  Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

tezza wrote:

Cleared all fault codes this morning. Re checked and this list was registered.

Click image to enlarge

As far as I can tell all of these things are working fine, although I have recently started to see the parking brake icon flashing on the dash, not always and usually if it's sat with just ignition on for a while.

Looking at the voltage reading of 12.0v I'd imagine that battery needs changing so I guess start here anyway.

My car doesn't have start/stop and from what I've seen that means I don't need an AMR type battery, it currently has a varta g3 blue so not an AMR. Is there any advantage to having the AMR type even if it's not strictly required?

Changed battery today for a Varta AGM upon the suggestions from Pete and rjff. Made no difference to the faults, they're all back after clearing and going for a drive.

Now I've got window weirdness added to the mix... I can no longer one-touch open or close the windows from the buttons inside the car.

Holding down the unlock button on the remote opens the windows as expected, holding down the lock button does not close the windows any more!?

You can recalibrate the windows with the IID in the service menu under body control

Think you need to set the windows, after battery change.

Can’t help with the errors codes but Someone with more knowledge may be along soon.

The windows though I believe you lower the windows & then raise them by holding the buttons & keep buttons held for a further 5 seconds after they stop at the top.

Also you may need to calibrate the steering, again after battery change, this is just lock to lock a few times.

Legends thank you

Battery is still showing 12.0v and estimated 78% charged. I did take it out for a 30 minute drive after changing the battery so was surprised to see it so low.

I did do the battery change in iid after putting the new one in. Not sure if I need to change the battery type under car config but there's nothing there that seems like it relates directly to the battery I've put in. I'll have a read through the iid docs now and see if I'm missing something

Tezza

You may have checked, but what voltage is the alternator charging at. It's a known fail on 11MY on. It should be up around 14.4-14.6 volts. When/if it fails it may also b****r the battery (ask me how I know).

Your first two codes have come up on mine previously without any further problems and IIRC there's a recent(ish) post saying B prefix codes are not to worrying.

HTH Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

I got rid of the more awkward codes with a new battery but soon realised it was down from 14.4v to 12v quite quickly. Fitted a new alternator and back up to 14.4v again.

With the engine stopped, on the meter the new battery shows 12.2v, at tickover 12.5v

Now I'm sure I checked this before and was seeing 14.something at tickover with the old lead acid battery on so idk if that lower voltage is the bcm limiting the charge after doing the battery replacement routine in iid or if I have an alternator issue.

I'm about to take it for a run down the motorway so will check the figures after that and see where it's at.

The later 4.4TDV8 fitted with a AGM battery charges differently and the alternator works in a different way than the older ones fitted with a lead acid battery there’s a few threads about it on here somewhere.

Been out for a decent run, watching live values in iid varied from 13.0 to anywhere up to 14v, now with the engine off reading 12.7 so I guess everything is looking ok. Just keep an eye on it now for a few days. Cheers all

You can get live voltage whilst running without using the iid if you wish.

Press the Home hard key to the left of the TFT screen
Press on the centre of the white bar at the top of the screen for 5 seconds
Press the navigation hard key for 5 seconds, or until the numeric keypad appears
Press 753 followed by Enter
Select Vehicle Signals

Compare the reading with your voltmeter/iid so you know what the differences are, if any.

Have a look around the other screens to see what's about.

HTH Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT