Evening all

After lots of swearing/WD40 and heat. I have finally been able to remove the lower wheel knuckle bolts from this 190.000 old girl.The Wheel hub nut eventually came away (with persuasion)
I had to use a combination of wd40, heat, an air gun and a breaker bar to gently remove this bolt. Not to mention I sprayed the bolt the night before as well.

But now I have spent the last 4 hours trying to separate the driveshaft from the splines in the rear hub without success. I tried not to be over selous in hitting the end of the driveshaft but i did get carried away a little (was able to sort the threads out). My usual Hub puller isn't up to the job as the offset doesn't match up

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wheel-Hub-Pulle...%3A2334524

The official tool is here

https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com...KU=205-857

But can anyone recommend a decent one for this vehicle, and i'll go and get one tomorrow.

All I want to do is replace the CV boot but i've been fart assing around most of the afternoon/evening with it

Not to mention the small rectangular holes the handbrake shoe springs go into has rusted away, it disintegrated as I removed the rear handbrake shoes

Can you get a long prybar to put tension on the back of the hub while you tap the driveshaft?

Did you try getting some tension on with your hub puller then giving the centre bolt a decent thwack ?

I found this with the rear inner wishbone bushes, tension up with the bush press kit, then thwack the outside of the wishbone where the bush is. Gets it moving.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Truth be told - I ended up getting a 4lb hammer and smashing the $%&*$£!! out of it but it didn't move a muscle.
I ended up having to sort out the threads on the shaft itself as they mushroomed a bit . I expected this would happen but I started to get frustrated with it. I just don't see how it isn't moving with the 4lb hammer myself ?? I guess its just that age old rust.

I did use my favourite screwdriver (similar to a small pry tool) that I use for prying tasks, but granted I didn't use the screwdriver to pry whilst hammering so I'll try this tomorrow.

I have read elsewhere that one guy removed the driveshaft from the diff and pulled it that way because he was having trouble as well. I also saw a youtube vid of a guy using a numatic hammer on a Rangie sport rear hub, seemed to come out in seconds....I am not so lucky.

Any ideas what I could do in relation to those brake shoe pins, I might get away with 1 but the otherside, the hole will be too big to support the pin....maybe a washer or new but and bolt combo ?

A friend of mine had the same issue with a Disco 3 hub.
He booked it into the Main Dealer as he needed it done quickly they failed to get it off.

So the answer was simple make a substantial puller, I got some 1/2" steel plate and we fabricated one. I will try and get a picture of the puller if I can.

Basically it fitted over the wheel studs using the cars own wheel nuts, a collar made from the same steel was welded onto that plate and another plate welded to that, so it was kind of hat shaped. On the top we welded a large nut (under the hat top).

A large bolt was shaped so that it wouldn't damage the shaft. A very long breaker bar later soon pulled the hub off.

I'll never go to a main dealer again is the lesson I learned from that. Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

Bigbo that sounds like a great idea, but I don't have any fabrication equipment at home...nor have I ever tried it infact (doh !)
So I would be unable to proceed.

I'm thinking of trying the larger of the 3 pullers out here. Maybe I can wrap it round the wheel bearing and push the centre nut directly onto the driveshaft.

https://www.toolstation.com/gear-puller-se...DrEALw_wcB

Last edited by mazza7282 on 31st Dec 2020 8:25am. Edited 1 time in total

We broke the biggest one that Machinemart sold at the time, I think you may have the same problem.

Any blacksmith or engineering workshop should be able to knock one up.


The only tools we used were Oxyacetylene cutter, stick welder and a grinder.
The collar we heated to red hot and hammered it around a former (don't remember what we used)

So all pretty agricultural, maybe a local farmer? Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

If you need one and wish to buy the JLR tool BUT made much better! Send me a PM sir...

I borrowed one from a JLR main agent and took it to out specialist tool makers, he took one look at it and said "i can make a much better job of that!"
So we had to have several tools made as he had to order an amount of a specalist metal?

So, i have one in the workshop and ive used the same one since 2008! And its never failed to shift a shaft!

Im sure we have 3 or 4 left...

Pretty sure cam-tech-craig's will be prettier than mine!  Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

And his tool!

Aye doesnt have to be pretty
Just has to do the friggin job :p......ive sent a PM

I do have an engineering shop near me actually. I guess if i got something to them they might b able to sort something.
Ive taken the negative off the batt and shut the door now on the car so it doesnt decide to adjust its ride height.

Guess ill get back to it, when i get back to it
Was a nice sunny day today aswell plenty of light (until 21:00 when I came back in again!)

That looks like a bit of kit there, as long as it did the job
Unfortunately i’ve had to give up....I just cant shift it with the appropriate toolage this time (A decent puller)

-The large puller from tookstation didnt work (yea, yea .... I know I was told it wouldnt)
-As I was smashing the driveshaft into the hub (occasionally hitting the hub). The wheel is now a right pain in the ass to put back on coz the outer ring is now slightly deformed (great—-now a new hub unless I can smash it back)
- I ran outa gas in the blow torch and ive used almost an entire can of WD40 (on top of the overnight soak)

I also did try to remove the upper (as i already have removed the the lower) arm bolt. But that one totally refused
to move so ive had enough.

First time for everything I suppose, so ive booked it into my MOT garage who I use, told them whats gone on and they say there gonna try n give it a go.

Right, a little update.
I decided to give this one more crack. What failed to mention is that I decided to remove the calier & disc to see if it would make removal easier by adding wd40 in a few more places.

In removal of the disc is the handbrake shoes came flying out as the backing plate is totally rusty & someone else has used small nuts/bolts n washers. Did a search on FFRR and seen its a common fault.

Rather than buy a brand new one from Land Rover (£75 inc vat each) + cutting it in 1/2 and re-stitching it over the hub (or remove the hub) I took advise from another thread on this forum and looked to get brake show repair kit from another car and use the buttons as backplate fillers.

If you can see the bolt shaft, then you may be able to use a hacksaw blade to cut through it. It won't be easy & will take some time. You're probably on the right track of removing the Hub & drive shaft together.
You could then take them to your local Engineering shop to separate