Hi All - 2006 4.2 SC

Two things:
1) Viscous to Electric fan conversion
2) Engine running cool during testing with viscous fan off

1) I know this has been covered before in this thread but the photos and diagrams have disappeared from the thread, does anyone know how to make them re-appear?
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic24082-90.html
Ive ordered a X type twin fan set up, and I understand that it's PWM input, which would be handy If the AJV8 has a PWM output to the viscous fan electronics (unlikely) or some other function. Relay on/off operation doenst do it for me.
Failing that I've found a unit that claims to do the trick:
https://derale.com/product-footer/electric...obe-detail
Anyone else got any other ideas before I make a variable speed fan setup?

2) while the viscous fan is off (don't like them at all) the car has been running absolutely fine without it, been monitoring the temps and it sits around 75-85 degrees around town, on the run it drops down to 70 degrees which takes the needle off centre and lean towards cold. Now I know the needle shows you what 'you want to see' so I'm just exploring that range so I'm able to set up the electronic fan speed controller when the time comes.

Any ideas why it would be running cool? There's no viscous or shroud, ambient temperature is about 5 degrees C. Thermostat stuck open maybe? Coolant levels are good and the interior heater blows hot when needed. Just seeing if it's a known thing before I start changing thermostats. Couldn't find anything on this from various searches.

Cheers, Andy

When my old SC was running cold on the motorway the o-ring on the thermostat had perished and was tangled in the thermostat.

Easy enough to check and cheap enough to replace

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Hi Andy,
Interesting piece of kit, dont know if this helps when mine gets up to temp the needle on the gauge stays vertical
irrespective of my speed.
I fitted a twin 12" Kenlowe electric fan kit to my 1980 RR. The viscous fan (like a dutch windmill) seemed to be on all
the time. I did notice a slight improvement in mpg plus seemed a bit more responsive, maybe my imagination??.
Id be very interested in your feedback when its fitted.
Good Luck
Peter

Your temps are running a bit cold. Should be around 95 normal running afaiu?

Normal coolant temperature should get to 88-91 in winter driving, you should check thermostat, it is fairly easy to replace, you can check for video ''atlantic british coolant thermostat replacement'' on youtube.

I had this same problem some time again after I replaced thermostat, this time it was lower thermostat fault, which is located in bottom hose (note sure if supercharged has it in same spot like mine 4.4ajv8). RR HSE 4.4 2006 LPG

Thanks all for your responses.

I'll source a thermostat then. Does anyone recommend a particular brand? Advanced factors sell one but I'm not sure of the brand of it. That or genuine from the dealer. Euros and GSF don't offer anything.

Temperature testing results (Using OBD2 gauge):
During stationary testing without the fan the needle on mine works as follows:
Cold to centre: 0-75°C
Centre: 75-115°C (What the driver wants to see)
Above centre: 116°C+
I didn't push it any further for obvious reasons before cooling it down by moving and gaining air flow.
So these have quite a range of what the ECU deems acceptable operating temps.
If anyone else has monitored their normal running temps for this engine with whatever fan setup be good to gather some results.

Here is the video link mentioned above for future readers looks like a simple job.


If I do a PWM variable speed conversion I'll post the write up.

Cheers, Andy

May I ask what the point of this conversion is? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Viscous fans are unreliable, limited air flow at idle, bulky large cowl which obstructs front of engine access, sap power (although negligible), make an awfully loud fan noise at engine speed which detracts from the v8 sound (sounds so much better when it's disengaged/not fitted), to take on and off for belt changes whereas electric fans stay fitted, more custom control of when cooling starts and stops, you can over ride electric fans to on if you are about to put the engine under heavy load to prevent a heat spike... Amongst other things.

Are you not a 'fan' of the idea?

No not at all I was genuinely curious... isn’t there a legacy plug iirc for an electric fan left from the BMW era is this connected?

Is this a plug and play thing or do you need to fabricate and code things? Current stable:
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

That sounds interesting, I'm not sure! Would be good if there is. If you have any suggestions as to locations / circuit diagrams etc that would be appreciated.

No coding for the idea at the moment. The box in the link in the first post is standalone unit and would run totally seperately to the vehicle electrical systems, with its own fuse. May be some fabrication for the jaguar fan and cowl.

If I were to use anything OEM it would have to match the 140hz PWM signal required by the jag fans, if it were an on off signal it could still be done, but would be one or two speed instead of variable.

BMW E46's have variable speed fan control, Id imagine PWM From the ECU..

looks like this project will be ok the back burner till thermostat and a couple of air bags are done.

The fan on the 4.2 sc is not just a viscous fan its also controlled by various inputs electrically, I'd leave well alone tbh

I did think of that, but also run it for 5 days without it at all and no alarms whatsoever. All inputs arent heavy enough gauge fan current, so must be control only. I would imagine: ground, clutch control low speed, clutch control high speed, and possibly some sort of PWM return to to Ecu to check its speed. Although it's not flagged any faults up so far, so not sure what else they could be. Perhaps someone can shed some light on that.

I wouldn't remove the viscous fan, aircon has an input as does gearbox temp.

I'd leave well alone

cool running engine would suggest an issue with thermostat either the seal or the wax in it has broken down.
i used to have an old Mercedes SL500 and i added a kenlowe kit to that with no issues and i have had x2 Navaras most recent was a V6 2014 model no issues there either, as the fan for the AC was sat in from of the rad. If i remember right my 2004 TD6 FFRR had twin fans in front that activated with the climate controls and a viscous unit on the engine. not checked my current TDV8!
I cannot remember fully but i am sure the fans on the navara the front ones sucked to assist the viscous fan and pull heat away from the rad rather than blow cool air over it.
the people at Kenlowe are very helpfull 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

A properly functioning viscous fan performs very well with very few down sides. Note it was designed to work in Iceland in -30 winter to the Arabic deserts in the height of summer in 55+ degrees working hard in the sand dunes at low speeds/high loads with the air on cranked up on fully cold, getting any performance benefit over the OEM system is near impossible.

Aftermarket kits tend not to work well, you will need to make a very good close fitting and sealed fan(s) shroud with bypass vents to work anywhere near as well as the OEM system. Most installs I have seen work ‘ok’ in normal use but s soon as the system is pushed in traffic, off road or track use (not an ff 😂) they cannot keep up and over heating occurs.

My advice is just replace the OEM fan, thermostat and coolant flush if you are having problems... it will be an faulty component like blocked rad, thermostat, viscous drive unit or engine issue if you are having problems not a design issue with the oem system.