No problems to note. I did the job with the ignition switched on in order to keep the column fully out giving more room to work. Then with the tilt travel set in the required position I unplugged the tilt motor.
On RR.net I read that Land Rover did a recall in North America to replace steering columns on vehicles from
2003-2006. This was more to do with the tilt function jamming at the end of its travel though.
So I called my local dealer to be told that they were not aware of it in the UK and that my car has no
outstanding service reqirements.

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/steering/tilt3.html

My tilt works OK, but the reach is does not move - it's fully in. I've only got little arms!

Is this something I can fix myself as I'm reasonably mechanically comfident / competent.

Can anybody point me in the right direction for a fix please.

supershuttle wrote:

L322Pilot wrote:

Decided to attack the little devil today,
Moved the steering tilt to where I like it, then unplugged the motor. There is no play up or down in the column and the telescopic function works normally in memory and manually. With no cost I'm quite happy.

I think I may well do the same anything to watch out for? Obviously a little concerned that the control box might push out move signals but as I have it set near the top I see no downside to disconnecting.

the RAC unit can switch off the steering tilt but only works on 2002 to 2005...

scarey wrote:

the RAC unit can switch off the steering tilt but only works on 2002 to 2005...

its only one click and it'll save wear on the motors i suppose...

scarey wrote:

the RAC unit can switch off the steering tilt but only works on 2002 to 2005...

stevenA wrote:

supershuttle wrote:

L322Pilot wrote:

Decided to attack the little devil today,
Moved the steering tilt to where I like it, then unplugged the motor. There is no play up or down in the column and the telescopic function works normally in memory and manually. With no cost I'm quite happy.

I think I may well do the same anything to watch out for? Obviously a little concerned that the control box might push out move signals but as I have it set near the top I see no downside to disconnecting.

I have just bought a 2007 which had the famous wheel in the lap when you put the key in. The TSB from LR tells dealers to first replace the switch pack, and then if there is still a problem, the tilt motor, which makes a tidy sum out of warranty, so I decided to dismantle the tilt motor.

The problem that I found, and I suspect it is common, is that the motor drives a nylon worm gear, that is mounted on an axle, which in turn drives the square key that drives the tilt screw - the axle loses "grip"on the nylon cog. Every time you key out, the ECU pulls the column up and looks for a stall; as the cog slips on the axle, there is no stall and so the ECU thinks it has been raised through the roof. When you put the key back in, it tries to return the wheel to where it thinks it should be - in the car and not on the roof, hence the leg cut off syndrome. This is because the ECU does not know absolutes, only the time the motor has been running.

My solution, which cost considerably last than a new motor, was to add a "blob" weld to the centre of the axle, grind it to a square key, and then cut a corresponding slot in the nylon cog. Works a treat. This ensures that the motor stalls correctly, and that the ECU then stops the motor, so it no longer loses track of where the wheel is.

Sorry, no photos, but it is a fairly simple job, and more durable than a new motor which will eventually fail in the same manner - essentially a bad design!

I saw (or rather heard) similar motor runing at max height in my 2002, so I guess they have the same issue, although the softawre must work differently, as I did not experience the wheel in lap issue.

let us know how you get on geoff ,sounds like steves produced an interesting tool...

Well I disabled the auto move every time you start/turn of the engine. Now I can adjust it as I want, and when I turn the engine of it stays where it was. Reformed

Quote:

Could I not just Araldite the nylon cog in place or am I missing something?

stevenA wrote:

Quote:

Could I not just Araldite the nylon cog in place or am I missing something?

Probably not for two reasons.

First the axle supports the cog and has to be pressed though it to remount the "gearbox";

and secondly, I have never managed to get araldite to grip on nylon.

One possibility would be to replace the weld blob with an araldite key, but the forces in this motor are significant; when you see how tight the cog is on the axle, you could well believe it is OK - thats why it still raises and lowers the steering wheel - but against the limits, the motor is sufficiently powerful to move the axle inside the cog! A weld blob works, but the motor may be strong enough to displace araldite.

Another alternative may be to drill a hole in the axle and insert a spiral pin, but this would weaken the axle, and require more cutting in the cog.

Hope this helps

Thanks, I think I'll just leave it as it is for now as I haven't got access to welding gear and I can't just pop round to your house and get you to put a blob of weld on the shaft  Geoff

I think that I should pull apart the connector to save me having this problem. Mine is a 2004 so its has a god few ins and outs.
can anyone please tell me clearly where the connector is?
Thanks
James

Jcsh wrote:

I think that I should pull apart the connector to save me having this problem. Mine is a 2004 so its has a god few ins and outs.
can anyone please tell me clearly where the connector is?
Thanks
James