Hi
I have had the mad idea to replace the rear brake pads and sensor on my 2014 model.
I have found out how to switch the electronic handbrake into service mode.
I know how to remove the two retaining bolts to remove the calliper.
Where I am struggling is how to compress the piston. It's not as simple as compressing the piston but I am lead to believe, you need to compress and rotate the piston - Is this correct and is it clockwise or anti-clockwise.

Can anybody help - without saying take it to a mechanic......

Thanks

3.0 14M5 Autobiography

Managed
Having watched various videos on YouTube and doing what I thought.....
After placing the hand brake in maintenance mode I just needed to push the piston and did not need to twist either clockwise or anti clockwise. I did buy a windback tool and found this very helpful.

I hope this information helps with any other mad DIYers when replacing the rear brakes.

Thanks

3.0 14.5M Autobiography

Just out of interest - I also replace the front disc and pads and again the windback tool was useful. (Double piston on front - placed one old brake pad in the caliper and used that as a bridge to both pistons. It was tight then loose and then tight again.

Cheers

You say you bought a wind back tool, I believe these do twist in the plunger as it goes back, not just push them back?

Maybe wrong.

Steve

Had this recently on my 14my, the piston also has 3 pins for the wind back toll to lock into when pushing it back - fairly rare apparently. Laser do a tool with 3 adapters and adjustable pins which l have...... now !! Model 6329. Other than that all quite straight forward.

Keith Keith

Main car : FFRR L405 Vogue SE SDV8 Balmoral Blue
Main M/C : Ducati Multistrada 1200S
Other
Suzuki Jimny

Past Cars
Ford Fiesta Titanium
D4 Nara Bronze HSE
D3 Teal S

Hi
I have changed the front disc and pads and also the rear pad on my 2014 big boy.
Yes the piston has a three pin connection which I bought an adapter from Machine Mart.
I think even though I had bought the tool it only needs a very good compress, the turning action was not needed.
Remember to set the car in maintenance mode for the rear brakes, it took me a while to find the way to do this.

Hope this helps

3.0 Autobiography 14M5 (49K miles)

As has been mentioned above the car MUST be put into maintenance mode or you will have a VERY EXPENSIVE rear calliper replacement for your troubles

so how is it put in maintenance mode then ?

Via a diagnostic machine sir...

Can the IID tool from Gap do that then ? - I have one of those.

Yes sir it can...

I'm about to do mine so have looked into the service mode. I've discovered that this can be accessed without a diagnostic machine as follows:

- Turn the ignition ON (not the engine) by pushing the start/stop button without stepping on the brake pedal
- Push the e-brake button down for 2 seconds and hold it (release the e-brake)
- Push the accelerator pedal down for 2 seconds and hold it
- Push the start/stop button twice (turn the ignition off and on)
Now the e-brake service mode is active.. you will hear a noise from the rear e-motors, when its releasing the e-brake to the service mode. Still hold the e-brake button and the accelerator pedal.
After the e-motors stops there will be info on the dash that the e-brake service mode is activated.


To deactivate the service mode is the same procedure, the only change is that you have to pull the e-brake button.

Have tested on my 2013 L405 and it works! Thought this would be useful info for anyone else considering a bit of DIY.

Does anyone else iid tool give error E7 when using it to try and set the rear brakes into maintenance mode?

Hi
I put my car in service mode without the use of a IId tool. Just by pressing buttons and the pedals in the correct order.

Yeah Using that approach works fine. I just wanted to know if anyone else had the same problem with their iid tool or is the problem unique to mine.

Cheers

Did my rear brake pads and discs today.

Just to add a few useful points for anyone else who does their own brakes.

1) the driver side is the wheel with wear sensor. I would always fit a new one as I have never managed to remove it from the old pads without it breaking apart.

2) pressing the caliper pistons back into the caliper. Using a good compressor the driver side pushed back in no effort at all. Despite the piston crown having having slots for a wind back tool - it just pushed in easily no wind back needed.

The passenger side though was a different story. This piston would NOT compress back whatsoever. After double checking the epb was still in service mode (paranoid!!! ), a trick I learnt years ago -is pair of long nose pliers fit into the wind back slots and gives you enough purchase to turn the piston - no special tool needed. The piston turned a quarter turn clockwise then locked. After that it compressed easily.

No idea why the two sides were different or if it was a flook or if sometimes a piston spins &locks over time and some don’t. Dunno.

3) to remove the old disc you will need a size T50 TORX bit (not socket) to remove the disc retaining screw.

4) a final point, the sensor wire feeds up to the back of the shock absorber high up and is a to see the socket it connects to. It’s even more of a if you have big fat shovels for hands like me as there isn’t much space to work to disconnect the old one and plug in the new one. Patience and you’ll get there.

Hope that helps anyone. Fairly straight forward job using LR parts from Dan, and a saving of about £200 on what my local LR dealer wanted.