or take your hubs off again... HAHA...will try to avoid that.

Thanks for all your device chicken, Yeah the bolting holes are even either side , Ill try the twist method first and let you know.

Ok here is how far I got today, after deciding which way to cut these discs , a bit daunting after spending £50 each. I cut the disc back plates right down the middle and voted to the hub and made some plates and already to weld , the bottom I should have put to the rear , all is not lost though it would balance the top and give it some support to the other side .

That looks neat, once it’s tacked you can remove the supports and the bolts if it helps to move it around to weld, but better with bolts in place. I’ce done a little mig welding, I would do as a series of spots so as not to put too much heat in it to twist it. Nice brush of good seam sealer both sides and you are away. Grind an area on the plate for your earth so you keep the current local to the job and disconnect battery after following battery disconnect procedure. Apologies if I am teaching granny to suck something

Ha Ha a wee bit, rest assured , battery disconnected !
Hadn't thought of seam sealer , I have left bolts on and taken off to weld was marked , now painting splits with hammerite including welded brackets of course. I may spot the inner and outer ends to prevent any vibration Would seam sealer fill the small gap do you think , is there painter version.

I would stitch weld it and remove the two brackets to make it look nice and neat. Paintable seam sealer similar to the link below would finish it off if you haven't welded it fully.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PU-SEALANT-PAIN...SwhiZaVH0p

Hmm after welding the brackets on and painting them , and all the cut marks , o everything was not to bad, I thought about stitching but it looked quite neat as it is and strong . So shoes on and new spring and pins to backing plate and discs back on .

Good job

Hmm not a good job yet Ok , having completed the replacement of the rear abs rings on my L322 I still have a fault with the system . HDC and suspension inactive , I have below these faults yet again , it’s not that I haven’t seen them before but my only thought is that I will have to deal with the front rings , how can I conclude this theory please , should I get readings from the wiring at the abs ecu while ignition on , I may add that all four sensors have been replaced , but in the initial replacement the old ring has grazed the sensor face . Maybe measure the sensor face left ? Just a bit stuck in this long

Click image to enlarge

What rings have you replaced?

What were the original codes?

What codes come back after you clear them?

The gap tool never seems to give a code , I find it sometimes quite random, The rings I have replaced are both the rears , you can see this back in the thread, The left rear appeared first then dissappeared as the speedometer indicated , but the signals were not good and as it turns out they were both gone completely. I can bring up a pic of the last three faults remaining , as per Gap tool , I will connect my other diagnostic to ascertain any faults.

Don't see an ABS fault code...

The LCM/EAS fault code is a daisy chain left over fault from a previous EAS fault. can clear.
The other two will just keep coming back, but according to GAP are of no real import. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

The Contisys Scan has picked up abs fault though?
Not easily read I admit.
I might also add that whatever the daisy chain of ecu's are saying , there must be something making this error , The Gap tool is not helpful.
The susp. is currently locked in normal ride height, but using gap tool all corners have been calibrated.

What brand of sensors?

Rimmers , I think I know what your going to say though. I reckon I’ll try and temporary swap front to rears they were new also, it might prove that I damaged the rears on the old rings . I ain’t paying £100 a pop !

Not had anybody luck with aftermarket ones. I’ll only fit OEM/Genuine now...