I have crunching sound from nsf - driveshaft CV is failing.
Can anybody advise how long it takes to replace this?
Is it a practical DIY job (outside in December) or should I just book into my local LR independent repairer?
I have done older beam axle LR & RR but not L322

Yes, diy-able job. But you'll need a couple of things.

You need to find the right size hub nut socket ... I'll look it out as I bought about 4 different sizes of socket based on wrong info on the web.

A standard hub puller tool from Halfords will push out the shaft , but you need to grind it down to be thinner so you have enough thread to attach the bolts.

Figure out a way of pushing the hub back onto the shaft. I used a large socket in the middle of the hub and hit it with a hammer to push the shaft back through .... bad idea, I've ever so slightly widened the hub centering ring such that the alloy is a tighter fit on the centre of the hub. It's ok, but I wouldn't use that method again. V8 or else ...

I did mine on my drive I think it was winter, the hardest part I found was actually removing the cv joint off the end of the shaft, it may have been easier to remove the whole driveshaft from the diff. You could always change the complete driveshaft with a nice Delphi one. I did work out that if I removed the cv boot and held the joint in line with the shaft and tapped the cv joint next to where the shaft came through it popped off but only when I held it inline.

The hub nut is done up FT, I had to tighten it using my weight over a certain distance of breaker bar as my torque wrench didn’t go high enough, I loosened it with the wheel still on with the centre cap removed and I have a good 600 mm breaker bar.
I didn’t use any puller or pusher, I loosened the hub but about one turn so there was a gap between the nut and hub and I gave it a good whack with a length of wood and a club hammer and I kept doing this until I ran out of thread and then continued with the wood (not me) and hammer until the shaft was loose and then tapped it out. Putting the new one back through, it went through the hub and once I could get the old nut back on it I used that to pull the shaft back through and then put the new nut on and torqued it up. I have a write up somewhere.
I had to drill out my ABS sensors too.

I couldn't get the shaft to slide through easily enough until the threads could be grabbed by the hub nut ... that was my issue. Seemed to come out just fine, but it just was not for going back in easily. ITs a pity the inner of the shaft isn't threaded such that you can grab it towards you through the hub. V8 or else ...

From memory I think I offered it up a few times and cleaned the internal spline on the hub and made sure the spline on the shaft was burr free and I lubricated it well. An internal thread would help for sure.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cv-...nt.268153/

Thanks to everybody for your replies and advice. As the drive shafts are (I think) the original ones it makes no sense just swapping one CV joint - Though it's probably the outer CV that's crunching, I haven't even gone under the car yet to check So, I will change the whole shaft with both CVs, probably GKN, that seem to be available for around £200.

However, having read through a couple of guides on-line, I may well leave it for my local LR repairer to do after Christmas - with a lift and all the right tools, they will do it a whole lot quicker than me

Season's Greetings to all