As I'm going to be doing this myself over the next week or so, I thought it might be useful to show and illustrate how to do it following my experiences.

To start off here's a picture of the kit you'll need to perform a service of this type;

9 litres of 5w40 Castrol Diesel Edge oil (Approx £100)

TD6 service kit - Oil filter, air filter, charcoal filter, fuel filter, sump washer (Approx £40)

Click image to enlarge

Right, the work is done and here is an abridged version of how to do this for yourself: I'd recommend getting the L322 Workshop Manual to refer to, although I found it lacking in some details.

1. Put the car into Off Road height so you can crawl underneath. Ideally you should use proper axle stands, I didn't have any that were up to the job.
2. Ideally you should disconnect the battery negative terminal, however as I needed to use the air suspension I left mine connected
3. Using a 10mm socket set undo the 6 bolts holding in the engine undertray




3. Using another socket, undo the sump plug seen here, it's on the rear left side of the engine (driver's side) I used 2 old washing up bowls to collect the oil



4. Remove the engine plastic covers, the one at the front and the left side which houses the air filter. You need an allen head set for this.



5. Remove the fuel filter by unclipping the electric feed, remove the sensor on the top using a star shaped bit, unfasten the two fuel hoses (these are jubilee clips with a weird fitment - you can undo them with a flat screwdriver but will need a pair of pliers to put them back. I'd recommend having 2 normal jubilee clips to replace them in advance) and then the star shaped torx bit holding the body at the back of the filter. Remove from engine bay upright as it contains 1/2 litre of fuel. I discarded it as it looked like it had all sorts of rubbish in it.

6. With the fuel filter out of the engine bay this gives you more room to access the oil filter. If you have a 35mm socket use this, I didn't so I used a set of large mole grips. Place a rag over the alternator underneath the oil filter housing in case of any drips. Unscrew the oil filter head slowly, then once undone remove centre spindle. paper filter is inside, remove this. Clean the filter head and body to remove old oil. Replace new filter into the body and put new rubber gasket onto the thread, lube with fresh oil. replace head onto the body.




7. Fit new fuel filter in reverse procedure of removal. Ensure fuel hoses are tight and leak free.



8. Remove old air filter and hoover out any debris left in the housing as seen below. Mine was full of all sorts of rubbish because the last service was done poorly and the casing was not put back properly, letting in debris and of course air leaks.



Old filter REALLY needed swapping

Click image to enlarge

Hi I have a problem with my range rover td6. When I accelerate for a short time the car cuts out & the clear fuel pipe under the bonett is full of air. If I turn the ignition on to prime the system back, it will then start. Also if I let the fuel tank run to quarter of a tank you can see air in the clear fuel line. I have changed the fuel filter & this problem still persists. This is a recent problem as the car has been fine up unitl recently. It seems there is air being dragged into the system or a blockage. Is there another filter within the system or have you come across this type of problem before?

Any advice or help you can give would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Dave Elliott

07879 404950

I did mine at the weekend. I didn't have that plastic undertray cover on mine though?

Something else I need to purchase I think! 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

Charcoal filter? Oh, that's the pollen filter, init  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Just finished doing mine.

Notes:

1. Don't be too alarmed when the car won't start. just takes a little while for the fuel to make it through the filter.

2. When putting the left hand engine cover back on, best to locate loosely the bolt at the back at the bottom first

3. My arms aren't long enough to reach a dropped allen key in the undertray from the inside  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I've dropped various tools in the engine bay that have ended up on the undertray.

I use a magnet to drap item to hole or vernt in tray to retrieve (If they are metallic of course)

Most of the pics aren't working for me

I got the full Brit part kit and knockeD the air and cabin filters out last night, took longer cleaning them out an refitting the airbox cover properly... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Air box cover can be a pig, as Joe says try to get the rear left hand ( Lowest) in first Mine was a blue one!

this 'how to' is from 2009 so the pics have gone into cyber space somewhere..  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Easiest way to access the air box bolts is to remove the unit that holds the cabin filter, it is held on by 2x13mm nuts and a 30 second job

The URLs seem to have changed so have updated them. Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

cheers fella will be doing it in the next few nights:) FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Thanks for the excellent how to. Have to do mine soon too

Gary

Done it again for the second time now in my ownership and thanks again for the write up, it's always good to have it on hand

I do seem to let the oil drain plug and the socket attached to it end up in my black bucket though!!!

The engine is always warm when I do it and this te plug is too hot to touch

Think I'll get it down to an hour all in this year as it took 90mins all in this time  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.