Just purchased a 4.4TDV8 and love it. I have had a TD6 for the last 9 years and this does seem a step up. Anyway I thought I would change oil cooler gaskets and the turbo pipe o rings, which all went well I think, thanks to the wiki on here.

Oil change I understand how or do but there seems to be very little on coolant change. I have read the manuals from the wiki, but it would be great to have something as good as the oil cooler gasket guide, to show a personal experience on how to do it.

Apologies if I have missed something, not the best with computers, but any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

There is nothing special with coolant change, just old out and new in. Air bleeding will happens by itself.
Just need to remember there is separate circuit between Webasto and cabin heater in case if you start Webasto with remote or timer. Just dont do it immidietly after new coolant is in. And other thing is, when first time start and drive put heater temp. knobs on maximum hot to ensure heater valves stay open.

Whilst maybe slightly different than the L322, on my L405 I missed out a stage which prevented the refill going properly and air lock occurring.

The stage being to unbolt the reservoir and hold it at least 10cm higher than its normal figment position in order for it to be the highest point of the system. Once I did this the system filled without issue. V8 or else ...

Thank you guys for the answers and help.

Just a couple of other questions on it.

Manual says to dismantle wheel liner/ splash guard as well as the usual engine tray. Is the liner necessary to drain coolant?

Also the point Jaguar3 made about the webasto do you mean this will take care of itself over time, just don’t use it straight away?

Thank you again for the great advice.

Yes, just dont use Webasto straight away after fluid change couple hours. If you do it, changeover valve will close and separate circuit and not let new fluid in. In other case this will take care of itself over short time.

Also dont forget to turn hot to maximum. There is again another valve, it may close circuit and same thing, not let fluid through.

Both valves need to stay de-energized (Webasto off + heater to max.)

About wheel liner, yes, you need to empty additional radiator as well (if you wannt get 100% of old fluid out).

Jaguar3, wow that is very useful, certainly above and beyond, very much appreciated.

Confidence level has gone from a 5 to probably an 8 now, thank you.

Same time you can clean additional radiator as well.
Usualy they are very dirty and not working due that. I wash it once per year, before hot sommer.

I never knew about that Aux rad so when I was down the jetwash yesterday I directed the pressure hose through the gap around the lower fog light and back through the vents in the wheel liner. I suspect it's not needed unless you are towing or operating in very hot climates though. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I think its for highway and high speed in hot conditions of course. Anyway its not working during normal driving due there is not much air flow. Just a small gap around the fog light only.
I know at least one case when 4,4 was driven over 150km/h for longer time and pistons was melt finaly due overheating. Main radiator was partly and aux compleatly clogged.
Mine was also clogged probably years before me, and all was fine. We dont have highways with 150 and more speed limit.
But anyway, better to keep it clean. Especially when main radiator is not in best condition anymore due no acess for cleaning.