Hi all,

When i bought my FF from the independent dealer 3 weeks ago , they changed all the disks and pads as there was only 40% meat left on the old ones.

From day one there was a real squeal when braking from low speed and from a standstill if you slightly lifted the pressure from the brake pedal and low pitched hum?

Now - its been back to the dealer twice now , where they have changed the pads both times thinking a faulty set of pads.

The last change was 2 days ago and since then i have done 150 miles but , although its better , there is still a squeal - whats your thoughts as I'm getting to feel like a pain in the butt keep taking it back (i know i should do as I've weighed out a lot of money on the vehicle) but i do feel like a pain.

Not sure if the disks are LR original or OEM , but could it be the disks causing the squeal and hum? CURRENT : FFRR 2012 4.4 TDV8
GONE : Discovery 4
GONE : BMW M5
GONE : L322 Range Rover
GONE : 2007 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER
GONE : SAAB 9-3 VECTOR SPORT
GONE : BMW M3
GONE : SIERRA COSWORTH
GONE : LOTUS CORTINA
GONE : MK1 MEXICO
GONE : MK2 RS2000

No replies? I take it that my issue is rare?

Had another new set of discs put on (front only) and still got a squeak although a little less severe.

Any ideas of other possibilities that will make the noise? CURRENT : FFRR 2012 4.4 TDV8
GONE : Discovery 4
GONE : BMW M5
GONE : L322 Range Rover
GONE : 2007 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER
GONE : SAAB 9-3 VECTOR SPORT
GONE : BMW M3
GONE : SIERRA COSWORTH
GONE : LOTUS CORTINA
GONE : MK1 MEXICO
GONE : MK2 RS2000

I'd be questioning the quality of the pads TBH.

The last time I replaced mine I was offered a set at approx' £30 ish or the correct ones at approx' £80 (from memory - could be out a fair bit). I wouldn't be suprised if your dealer are going down the cheaper route which could be the issue.

I obviously haven't heard your issue first hand but if it were mine I'd be popping the pads out and putting decent leading / trailing chamfers onto them to see if it made a difference.

You could also just take it out and give it a damn good thrash down a decent A road with plenty of excessively heavy braking!! This route will probably not help in anyway but by-Christ you'll feel loads better

Good luck!!

Could be cheap pads, but Have you allowed the new pads and discs to bed in?

On the last set of discs and pads I've done about 300 miles so far - should be bedded in? CURRENT : FFRR 2012 4.4 TDV8
GONE : Discovery 4
GONE : BMW M5
GONE : L322 Range Rover
GONE : 2007 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER
GONE : SAAB 9-3 VECTOR SPORT
GONE : BMW M3
GONE : SIERRA COSWORTH
GONE : LOTUS CORTINA
GONE : MK1 MEXICO
GONE : MK2 RS2000

Depends how you've been braking. If you've been braking hard from day one it won't have done them any good.

No I've been kind on the discs every time I have a new set out on - always feathering when coming to a stop . Think I've done everything as requested by the garage but I am erring on the side of inferior pads at the moment - any recommendations for pad manufacturers? CURRENT : FFRR 2012 4.4 TDV8
GONE : Discovery 4
GONE : BMW M5
GONE : L322 Range Rover
GONE : 2007 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER
GONE : SAAB 9-3 VECTOR SPORT
GONE : BMW M3
GONE : SIERRA COSWORTH
GONE : LOTUS CORTINA
GONE : MK1 MEXICO
GONE : MK2 RS2000

Pagid's from Euro car parts are fine, reasonably priced too, mine has them at the moment.

Cheap discs can do it too, some of them the metal is too hard.

I'd still be tempted to try adding a leading / trailing chamfer to see if it makes any difference.

Next up I'd be checking the pistons. As yours is the 4.4 is it on 6 pot calipers? Mine's on 4 pots but I believe as stock they still use chrome plated alloy pistons on the 6 pots and if the plating gets damaged on any of them they stick (especially with new pads so the piston is more retracted) and "squeal like a pig". Please can someone tell me if the 6 pots moved away from alloy pistons??

So, if you're going to do the leading / trailing edge thing take the opportunity, while the pads are out, to ensure all pistons move back into the calipers with the same amount of progressive force. If one is tight (& ensure they all fully retract) then there is your problem.

Be warned, if one is bad then more often than not the rest will be on their way. Also, don't let the dealer fob you off with any fettling on the pistons - if the chrome has gone they must be replaced. Any cleaning / polishing etc will mask the issue just long enough to get you out the warranty period before they start leaking fluid.

Good luck

you might struggle to get any front non OE/gen discs for the 4.4tdv8, i was just looking and the only available ones i could find were gen in any case, so i would doubt the discs are the problem.

I would question the front pads, the LR ones are £190 from Dan, and the OE Delphi ones are about half that. but are probably the same....... but there are loads of aftermarket ones from the likes of Mintex and Pagid. which are a little cheaper.

The genuine ones shouldn't have copper grease on them as far as i can tell, they have a sticky tape of the back as well as a rubber pad to stop squeal. just replaced mine, with gen, and no squeal and No copper grease. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

My 2p’s worth, ONLY use Gen pads in the front! OE disks will work but my findings (the same as with 3.6’s) ONLY genuine JLR pads work without noises!

Air in the brake lines? My 04 TD6 squealed like a good un when I bought it. I changed the front discs and pads but to be honest those I took off were fine, I did get horrible old brake fluid out when I bled the brakes but also found the brake dust shields on the inside of the discs had rotted around two of the attachment bolts (3 in total) which would have caused them to resonate, anyway penny washers sorted that problem both sides. No more squealing, however just this past week have now picked up a low speed squeal from the drivers side rear mainly on light braking and low speed turning (in the drive through at Mc D's for morning coffee) it seemed noisier this morning and that particular alloy had a greater deposit of brake dust than the other 3 with a slight whiff of hot brakes from that rear wheel area. The disc and pads on this rear wheel are fine so I'm suspecting that the piston is maybe not retracting the pads due to air in the caliper/rear brake system or I have too much play in the rear bearing allowing the disc to contact the pads at low speed before it pushes them away or allows the pads to ride the disc (increased brake dust). Cheapest option first I'll be bleeding the brakes this evening.

Paul

Squeals from brakes are mostly due to the pads vibrating in the caliper. There could be other issues as RiccartonRR mentions but on a 2012 model I would hope the pistons are still in good condition and moving freely, worth checking though and you would hope the garage did.
To stop the squeal the caliper needs cleaning up and copper grease on the back of the pad and slides is the usual fix although it can only be temporary.
Alternatively you can fit anti squeal shims. These can be a rubber type material or a metal shim that sits in between the pad back and the caliper piston face which takes up any gaps and hence stops vibration/squeal. The slides will still need copper grease though.

It sounds like the factory pads come with the anti squeal rubber backing as standard hence why they sort the problem so you could insist on factory pads.
You can buy self adhesive anti squeal shims separately (Mintex do them, search for 'anti squeal shim') and just stick them on the back of the pads you have (clean them up first obviously). Halfords used to sell them but doubt they do now.

As for bedding brakes in, gentle braking as mentioned is wrong and will only glaze the pads and will take forever to make them form to the shape of the disc surface. To bed the brakes in you need to get heat into the pads. Start off with travelling at around 60mph then firm/hard brake pedal pressure to near standstill (do not stop). Continue driving, accelerate normally to 50mph then repeat the process. Carry on but decreasing the start speed in 10mph steps to 10mph. Repeat this so you have done around 10 runs altogether (so 2 sets of runs). You obviously need a long stretch of quiet road to do this and with new pads the braking will not be brilliant initially (so be wary) but it will improve. This process puts heat into the pads and cooks off surplus binding resins in the pad material leaving mostly the desired friction material, they will smell initially due to the resins being cooked off, it's normal. It will also evenly coat the discs with material and form the pads to the discs (or with extremely hard material pads, the disc to the pad...try Ferrodo F4R's if you want your discs skimmed!).
The garage should have done the bedding in for you but it doesn't hurt to repeat the bedding in process, in fact it should improve the stopping power. It's the first thing to try to sort any vibration/squeal issues out because if the pads aren't clamping correctly they will vibrate and therefore squeal.

My go to guide for brakes is from Stoptech and can be found here:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers

For myself it wasn't a cheap bleed the rear brakes fix I'm afraid,
the squealing rear corner was very hot and smelly with brick red dust over alloy wheel and caliper. I found the caliper piston had seized. My Halfords brake piston compressor tool I bought for my Jag S type was man enough to unstick the piston but the exposed portion is heavily corroded. The pads were cheap items with no anti squeal pads and lots of corrosion on the touch face to the brake piston top, in fact lots of corrosion everywhere on the caliper. The brake dust shield was also touching the heavily rust deposited inner disc face. I've just ordered up new discs, calipers (both sides) pads (EBC) and brake wear cables, with VAT £160 from Island 4x4, discs and calipers are Britpart they have to be fit for purpose but might not go the distance of the Land Rover items and I've experienced no problems with Britpart front discs I've been using for 8,000 miles. I might blast clean and refurbish the old calipers for next time around.
Paul

New calipers, discs and pads have sorted the squeal and I also found one of the height sensors on the rear had split rubber around the lower attachment bolt which allowed about 10mm of movement in the feedback arm. A small jubilee clip sorted this as a temp repair and lo and behold my vehicle has leveled itself which previously had a slightly nose high attitude which had me pondering spending 300 notes on a suspension reset tool. Moral of the story always check all visable parts when the wheels are off!

Paul