Folks,

I seem to have a weep from my radiator somewhere so need to investigate. I note the overflow reservoir is quite low, although I find the gauge on the top of no use at all, it doesn't seem to translate to the float inside in terms of position.

I am assuming that this overflow reservoir should not be full up to the top anyway when cold? Any guide as to where it should be when cold? 50% full, 75%?

So I plan on topping it up but with what?

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/en...e-2-litres

Something like the above?

JLR specify

BASF Glysantin G48
Arteco Glacelf MDX
Castrol NF

Although in practice just about any red coolant will do...

You top up the overflow tank until the second fat bit on the float is level with the top of the threaded part that has the cap on... Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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A picture paints a thousand words....



Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I used the ready mixed OAT (pink stuff) from Euro car Parts. The ready mixed is more expensive than the concentrate, but only by pennies.

When I did mine I sed the correct G48 spec which you can buy under the Comma brand from Halfords and a lot of good motor factors.

That picture helps. So the float needs to be poking out from cold.

Helpful - thanks guys!

Found the G48 spec Comma in Halfords and it was green so I went for a pink/red which mine already had in as per the above link I posted.

Bought a 5 litre and it took 1 litre to get the float into the right position.

I started the engine and ran it for 10 mins lying underneath with a torch, nothing was dripping out so whatever leak I have it seems very small.

It will take over 10mins sat at idle to get up to temp, take it for a 10mile run then come home and lye underneath it...

 Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

The correct coolant for the 2002/03 M62 V8 (and TD6) is G48 Ethylene Glycol fluid as Hayland says (usually blue, green or pink).
You should not mix OAT fluid (usually red or orange) with EG fluid (unless you get a specific fluid that is mixable). If you do mix then you can end up with a horrible gel in the system as they react.
You can use OAT fluid but the old EG has to be completely flushed out of the system (I changed mine over to OAT when renewing the alternator a few years back).
Later RR's swapped over to OAT fluids, probably from around 2004/5 onwards.

So the answer is match your fluid to what is already in the system. With OAT fluid only dilute with distilled water, additives and impurities in tap water can react with the OAT fluid reducing it's effectiveness.
EG fluid life in the system is usually 2 years.
OAT fluids are usually 5 years so swapping to OAT can be more cost effective in the long term.

My system had pink in already so I topped it up with the pink OAT ready mixed. Didn't want to mix with any other colours (green/blue) as they would react. I have no idea what type it was that was already in other than it being pink.

Do you think, if I am still losing coolant, that it's worth me trying a Holts Radweld or similar? It seems to work for lots of people.

You can try it, if it's only a minor leak it might solve it for a while. It's only a temporary fix though, and over using it just fills the system with rubbish. But saying that it's easy enough to flush out when you eventually repair the system properly

It's quite good at sealing weeping gaskets fairly permanently but it's only going to be a temp fix on a leaking rad or hose.