I went for a re-furb turbo with a 12 month warranty (probably won't keep the car much longer) which cost 360+vat plus fitting which was 320+vat including oil change.

If your indie has good software, not just generic code reading, he'll be able to see the live values which will more than confirm the problem. In my case we could plainly see the boost figures the ECU was calling for but only one turbo was doing anything - the other was zero.

On the other hand we could see the values for the EGRs and both were functioning correctly. I believe these figures can be viewed with an IID BT tool but I'm happy to be corrected there.

One other wee thing you could try is using a torch etc lie underneath your car and look at the suspect turbo. Get someone else to turn the ignition to position II and wait for a few seconds. With mine the faulty unit rapidly went through it's full movement clanging at each stroke as the ECU tried to calibrate them. As the positioning of the turbo actuator was my problem (and not the drive itself but it's the same unit) then the ECU had no idea where it was hence rapid stroking / clanging.

Good luck

Ooops - should have mentioned - I got a price from Dan@Duckworths which was fantastic for a Garret unit (not exchange) at approx' £855 IIRC but like I said, I'm not too sure how long I'll have her.

An EGR code will be logged, if there is a genuine EGR issue

If it is only an actuator, or boost pressure code being logged, then it is likely to be a seized actuator, or boost leak in the system

With the IID, you can watch the actuators move rough their full range of travel, as well as EGR command and position

First port of call is to find out what fault codes are being logged

The Indy that checked the O/S turbo when the fault first appeared and confirmed the actuator wasn't stiuck, or sticking.

I have the fault codes somewhere and they pointed to an actuator issue but the physical check showed that it was moving freely. As I understand it, there's also an electrical actuator inside the turbo unit?

I'm struggling to understand how a seized actuator can disappear for days and no errors are reported. Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Depending on the code, it may not be a physical actuator fault, but a boost pressure fault

As said, live data is the next step

So a BT IIDTool would do the job?

I've been looking for a good reason/excuse to upgrade my non-BT!  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Our one is going in for its annual service Monday, my indy is trying to talk me in to a 're-map, says it will map out the egr valves, increase power, and improve consumption, with the exception of mapping out the troublesome egr`s, I'm not particularly bothered about the other stuff.
Any one have any thoughts on doing this?
It will cost €600, but I really don't want to cause any problems later.

alanm_3 wrote:

So a BT IIDTool would do the job?

I've been looking for a good reason/excuse to upgrade my non-BT!

A non-BT tool will also do the job, but is a bit awkward to navigate and compare without the graphs

Speak to Patrick @ Gap about upgrading. I know there have been a lot of D3 owners upgrade recently

That's what I'm thinking Mike, non-BT without the live value graphs wouldn't really help I don't think? Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Hi, today we've got our first two EGR related error codes - and the amber engine warning light - on our TDV8. The code read from the IID BT tool was "P140A-21 (2C)". After investigating this a bit, I found that it is related to the left EGR, signal low.

My first thinking was that: Now it's time to try to map both the EGRs out! But after discussing this with Pete at BAS, it seems that mapping the EGRs out is not that simple. One need to blank the EGRs out as well....

I know that the IID BT tool is capable of giving live feeds, do anyone know what/how to use this tool to find out more regarding the EGRs and in particular the turbos - to increase the likelyhood of a sucessful repair?

I’ve used and recorded live values from the IID BT tool, but I’m not an expert (to put it mildly!) to analyze and draw a conclusion based on these readings. To me it seems that the left EGR valve is less open (lower position values) than the right. When the EGR error code appears, the left EGR valve (#1) is stuck at max 5% opening.

However, when using live values it happens often that some live values freeze, and the feed of these values are sent to the iPad as a bulk stream at the end of the live values recording session. It seems that there is something wrong with the time stamp of the recordings.

I would try a Revive treatment for turbo and EGR problems. I used it on the RRV when I thought fuel consumption was up a bit. The motor had noticeably more power & seemed smoother running, not that it was running rough. I also used it on the Peugeot 407 hdi which had an EGR related surging problem. We initially fitted a blanking plate which fixed the problem, but then removed the plate used the Revive treatment. The surging hasn't returned. These are my only experiences with this product but both were positive. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow