This looks really helpful when trying to isolate which module is at fault;
http://www.bmwgm5.com/K-Bus_Troubleshooting.htm

Boat.Buoy wrote:

Oh and to top it off...the drivers door handle to mechanism cable snapped today!?

Matt, the boot seal can be a bit tricky so do take your time so as to get a good fitment/seal

Thanks for the thought Craig, any suggestions where to start or best way to attack it?

Matt

Start on the sides where its easy to see what your doing then when you have got the hang of what your doing/how much pressure to put on the seal etc, then work your way around...

All sorted, fitted the new boot seal, hopefully that'll keep the water out! Now just to fix the electrical issues...

Whilst trying to figure out which module could be causing the issues I tried disconnecting the three units in the boot, dsp amp, sat nav and TV unit. Then disconnected the battery for 15minutes, reconnected, and all faults were still the same.

I wanted to see if the vehicle was shutting down properly, and confirm at which part of the ignition cycle things were going wrong;

So I disconnected the battery, left it for 15 and reattached. Unlocked & Locked the vehicle with remote central locking. Current draw 2.5a, drops to 0.8a after 1 minute. After 15 minutes red light by gear stick went out, current draw dropped to 0.2a.

Unlocked vehicle with remote. Opened and closed door, locked vehicle with remote. Current draw 3a, dropped to 1a after 1 minute. After 15 minutes red light by gear stick went out, current draw dropped to 0.2a.

Unlocked vehicle with remote. Turned key in ignition to position 1.
Turned ignition off and locked vehicle with remote. Current draw 3a, dropped to 0.8a after 1 minute. After 15 minutes red light by gear stick went out, current draw dropped to 0.2a.

Unlocked vehicle with remote. Turned key in ignition to position 2. After 30seconds the dash displayed air suspension inactive and lowered the vehicle slightly.
Turned ignition off and locked vehicle with key, remote would not work. Current draw 4.5a, dropped to 2.4 after 2 minutes, then 1.6a after 3 minutes, 0.8a after 4 minutes. Observed for 15 minutes and it didn't drop any lower. Red light by gear stick remained on, as did lights on the eas panel (inhibit & standard height)

Unlocked vehicle with key, remote would not work. Turned key in ignition to start vehicle.
Turned ignition off and locked vehicle with key, remote would not work. Current draw 4.8a dropped to 3a after 1 minute, 1.2a after 3 minutes, stayed around 1a. Observed for 15 minutes and it didn't drop any lower. Red light by gear stick remained on.

Any ideas what to try next chaps?

matt

Have you tried reading the OBDI to see what that says or whether it might point to a fault?

Hi Yodaboy, Yes, I have RSW All Comms and have tried reading it. Normally it works just fine and I've been able to carry out all tasks (calibrating EAS etc). While this fault is present some functions work properl, others not at all. When connecting to the BCU I get the TX and RX lights flashing but the Error box in the bottom right hand corner lights up red, only when I try and connect to the BCU related functions. I can't display live data for suspension heights, but I can for steering angle sensor.

Reading and clearing engine codes works as normal.

Think I'm going to try this trouble shooting guide, http://www.bmwgm5.com/K-Bus_Troubleshooting.htm. Would anyone know where the "shorting bar" is located on our vehicles? I've seen something similar mounted up above the sat nav unit in the boot.

Matt

Anytime you disconnect the battery the "air Suspension Inactive" message will be displayed when you turn the ignition on for the first time after reconnection.
To clear this you move the steering wheel fully to left lock and then fully to right lock.
On then turning the ignition off then on the message should have cleared.
In addition to clearing the message numerous other electrical discrepancies should disappear also.
From you meter readings you appear to have a 200mA battery drain which is a step in the right direction.
I'm afraid there is no easy way to reduce this further other than methodically pulling fuses and taking drainage readings until you find a circuit that when disconnected by pulling the circuit fuse results in the drain dropping.
Then you have to investigate that circuit.
This procedure does work it's just a bit tedious.
200mA drain is no good, you need to get it down to at least 30-40mA and preferably lower.

Nicedayforit, my apologies, I always forget to include something when I come in from the cold workshop...yes I did clear the EAS inactive my calibrating the steering angle sensor, I have to do this soo often at the moment its become second nature!? When I do this the extra lights go out, as does the EAS message, but it comes back after about 30 seconds.

I don't mind pulling fuses or doing whatever it takes to get the current draw down, at least that is a logical process you can work through. At the moment this other issue, what I'm going to term 'something crashing the network' for now, is more difficult because I don't yet know which module or component is at fault. I could live with 0.2a, even 0.8a as a current draw, as long as everything was working correctly. I use the vehicle every day so going flat after a couple of days isn't my concern right now.

Matt

Replaced the boot seal as suggested above, even after the rain we've had over the last few days the spare wheel well is bone dry!

Thanks again everyone. Now just to sort these sodding electrical issues!?!?!

Matt