Wouldn't it be easier to modify the standard jump points to get a better connection? Think their 13mm nuts. You could get some fabricated with flat plate type things to allow standard cables to get a better connection? [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

Teaching granny to suck eggs here, but when connecting cables from a doner vehicles battery leave for 10 to 15 minutes with doner engine running. Then switch on FFRR and try to start having built up some charge in the FFRR's battery, takes some load off the cables if under sized.

rathbranV8 wrote:

I,the battery is an awkward to clamp to as too many cables and connectors in there already

Use the jump start posts in the engine bay.

steptoe wrote:

rathbranV8 wrote:

I,the battery is an awkward to clamp to as too many cables and connectors in there already

Use the jump start posts in the engine bay.

The -ve post is still there isn't it in later models though?

If the FFRR needs a jump then as above leave about 5-15 minutes depending on how flat it was, then turn to the run position and leave for about 20seconds or more before cranking. This means the energy for any Glowplugs and fuel pumps is drained from the donor car and helps the battery not get shocked as much from all the devices going at once Then crank and if it struggles at all leave it a bit longer.

My TD6 is in good enough health that the times I've had to jump it due to being a plank myself, that as soon as there is enough juice for about 3 seconds of cranking it catches and goes  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Quote:

The -ve post is still there isn't it in later models though?

Yes

all very helpful replies but i've no positive post for jump starting,was never there and yes I know what it looks like and where it should be

as regards getting a donor vehicle to hang on 10-15 minutes,they would be very helpful to hang on that long if at all likely...

I agree rath

You can get then parts iirc to install that jump point from LR  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

yip am certainly thinking about doing that but was wondering if I could improve upon it at all.looks like I will just go with the easy option and get the missing positive jumping post parts from the stealers

I think if your going to that trouble you should go the whole hog

Mainly as you have to drill a hole to fit the bits IIRC and take the battery out to do it anyway  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

You need some Anderson SB series 350 AMP connectors as fitted to electric forklift trucks

Like this John?
http://uk.farnell.com/anderson-power-produ...dp/1862777 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

That's the sort of thing Will, They are used for the power supply of electric forklift trucks and extremely robust

Im guessing the bits they picture include the male and female parts (calm down Mick!) and not just one side of the connector?

And forklifts... I may have to see if an old friend still works for Linde  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

There are several different types of connectors, but basically yes you will have a male and female connector