This morning, twice, whilst on a 40-ish mile trip, I got the "Reduced Engine Performance" alert on the dash. Both times I was in a 50 limit, on cruise. Both times the alert cleared in about 10 secs and before I could stop anywhere.

As it happened I was on my way to the dealer I bought it from to pick up some bits they had promised me. Asked them about it and they plugged it in to their diagnostic machine (not main dealer so I don't know which version) but they said no faults recorded.

I've had another car in the past which occasionally randomly did this. Should I check anything specific, or be overly concerned?

Presumably not tied in with my blower problem which I think is the FSR?

Thanks

How old is your battery ? onto no6 Range Rover

Everyone needs a hobby

Cappo wrote:

This morning, twice, whilst on a 40-ish mile trip, I got the "Reduced Engine Performance" alert on the dash. Both times I was in a 50 limit, on cruise. Both times the alert cleared in about 10 secs and before I could stop anywhere.

As it happened I was on my way to the dealer I bought it from to pick up some bits they had promised me. Asked them about it and they plugged it in to their diagnostic machine (not main dealer so I don't know which version) but they said no faults recorded.

I've had another car in the past which occasionally randomly did this. Should I check anything specific, or be overly concerned?

Presumably not tied in with my blower problem which I think is the FSR?

Thanks

As above, bet your on your original battery!  Range Rover-less at the moment - Pining!

OK, I'll have a look at the date and/or get the battery tested and see what that shows - thanks!

I suppose the battery wouldn't also be a culprit for the heater issues I've also posted on?

Is there any way to prove or disprove the battery without fitting a new one? Jump another battery on to the car?

Actually I have a P38 on the drive, wonder if the battery is the same capacity....

the battery is the culprit for so many failures on the range....the ecu's take so much power to operate and they seem to all 'talk' to each other and if one is not getting its full whack then the next one down the line suffers.
the alternator should push out 14 volts whether idling or on revs, say that if the battery cant take the charge then the battery wont start the car or maintain the power to the ecu's.... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

As stan says above

I've mentioned it before and I'll mention it again - only because ever since i had one of these installed, all my previous "niggles" magically disappeared. I had a battery tender installed at the stealers - very cheap.

Apprently, my local dealer installs tenders on all their new and used Rangies before they leave the lot.

mike.