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GregP Member Since: 11 Dec 2010 Location: Exmouth Posts: 1084 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi there
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dannyp15 Member Since: 21 Sep 2011 Location: essex Posts: 244 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A front differential would normally be expected to last the life of the vehicle, but on the new Range Rover introduced in 2002 it was a major failure item. The problem lay in the design of the front driveshaft, which had no flexible coupling at the front end, so any minor misalignment put severe stress on the front diff input splines, leading to failure and immobilization of the vehicle. In 2006 the problem was solved (by a redesigned front drive shaft/prop shaft) on the updated model introduced in that year, but the 2002-2005 models were left unchanged. Until early 2008 there was still no safety recall or redesign of the components involved, although more than one service bulletin had been produced on the subject and temporary fixes in the form of realignment of the front diff/driveshaft connection were implemented.
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nicedayforit Member Since: 11 Jun 2011 Location: Beside the Solway Posts: 3979 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
There is an argument that if a car has got to 60k without any diff failure problem then there isn't a problem.
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ric355 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Surrey, UK Posts: 302 ![]() |
Just to be clear, it isn't the diff that fails. It is the propshaft to diff connection splined joint that fails. This may necessitate a replacement or repair to the diff as the spline is obviously on a shaft that leads to the input pinion on the diff. My car ran to 71k miles without being done, but when I took ownership of it I wanted it done for peace of mind. I understand the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" argument but I don't subscribe to it personally. There's no way you can tell if it is going to fail until it actually does. The replacement joint accounts for any misalignment no matter how slight, so once done (assuming the mechanic is competent) it should be at its most reliable thereafter. |
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cliffy Member Since: 17 Apr 2010 Location: Surrey Posts: 556 ![]() ![]() |
How do i check if mine has had recall work doen do i just ring the dealer?
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ric355 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Surrey, UK Posts: 302 ![]() |
Do you know what a CV joint looks like? Pictures on this page: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/d...ecall.html The first photo is what it looks like after it has been done. The CV joint is the shiny bit with the bolts in. There are pictures of old and new on that page to compare with. Put your suspension in off road mode, leave the drivers door open, and look underneath. Follow the front propshaft toward where it enters the diff. |
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cliffy Member Since: 17 Apr 2010 Location: Surrey Posts: 556 ![]() ![]() |
cheers dude, ill have a look tomorrow |
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GregP Member Since: 11 Dec 2010 Location: Exmouth Posts: 1084 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Or you can just call your local dealer and give them the VIN. FFRR TD6 HSE
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SteveMFr Site Sponsor Member Since: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Strasbourg, France Posts: 1641 ![]() |
TBH, head-sticking-under is faster (at least in the case of my dealers) ![]() To answer your questions completely, Liam: 1. the entire diff is replaced. It's just the input shaft that's a prob, but it can't be replaced w/o a complete diff rebuild so replacement is cheaper. 2. an indy shop should have known about this as it is a major prob w/the earlier L322. That said, I'm sure there are many competent mechanics who are not complete LR nutters and might not know about recalls, tsb's and the like. And, only a dealer would replace for free - obviously. 3. no damage to any parts aside possibly from the input shaft on the diff - which is replaced. While there is a consensus that if it's going to fail it will be w/in the first 50k miles, I would def have it done. Not only for peace of mind but also for resale value. ![]() RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr, P38, and 2 L322s (wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too) |
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ric355 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Surrey, UK Posts: 302 ![]() |
That's not correct for the pure recall work. They basically swap the propshaft for one that is in two parts which are connected by a CV joint. The only reason to change the diff (or the splined input shaft to the diff) is if a failure has occurred before the recall due to misalignment. Parts: 1 LR008102 SHAFT ASSY - DRI 1 LR007758 FLANGE - COUPLING 1 LR008106 HEAT SHIELD 1 LR008114 KIT - HARDWARE 2 TKE000040 CIRCLIP 1 568680 STRAP - CABLE Fluids 1 LRN7951 OIL - ENGINE 1 STC50550/10 RVT SEALANT 2 LRN2261 FLUID - POWER AS 1 ROBC BRAKE CLEAN 3 SYNGEAR SYNTHETIC GEAR OIL |
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SteveMFr Site Sponsor Member Since: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Strasbourg, France Posts: 1641 ![]() |
Thanks, ric, live & learn. I was under the impression the diff would be swapped out too. Only when damaged then? Mine got a new diff... Shortly before failure? |
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Pauld Member Since: 15 Mar 2010 Location: Sheffield Posts: 199 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Mine had 8 replacements, prior to the recall.
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