My tailgate straps were rusting and basically stuck straight i.e. did not swivel and my damper was leaking so figured I would spent 20 minutes replacing them (lol!).

I replaced the left hand side easily in 5 minutes the washers were pure rust but the bolts were both fine. Unfortunately the right hand side (the one with the damper) is absolutely .

As per the photo, the rust has spread to the body - hopefully only slightly as my car is currently in good nick rust-wise. The actual bolt seems reasonably okay but because of the damper knob, I cannot fit a socket onto it.

I tried using a deep impact socket which goes around the knob part but it does not fit flush because it is recessed into the boot a little so it ends up at an angle. I tried using a spanner and the bolt is starting to round off and hasn't budged a bit, because of all the rust getting in the way I can't get a brilliant grip on it.

I have soaked it in penetrating oil and used a hammer and screwdriver to chisel as much rust away as I can but having no luck at all. I don't want to keep trying if all I am doing is rounding the bolt more.

Any suggestions? I've heard this is a problem but haven't seen any solutions.

Will heat be a good idea in this location? I have a mini kitchen/creme brulee style torch but I'm worried it will damage the paintwork / rubber seal if I am too close (I've never used heat on a bolt before so could be over thinking it)

I also have a dremel and can try cutting the knob off.

Click image to enlarge

Whatever you do, don’t snap the head of the bolt off as the bolt screws into a blind thread welded on the inside of the panel - been there done that.

I’d suggest sawing off the nipple flush then using as tight a fitting 6 sided socket you can find, opposed using 12 sided sockets, you should get a better hold of the bolt.

Looks like you’ve already soaked it in some sort of penetrating fluid, I’d suggest doing this over a few days, also try removing the loose rust to allow this to get better access into the thread of the bolt.

Worst case would be welding a socket or spanner onto the bolt,

Good luck  Jonathan

2007 Defender 90 XS Hardtop

I undid mine with my pump pliers they came straight out with a bit of effort

As above, get all that rust off, squirt everyday for a week then I would use the Irwin nut removers in the link below, always had a lot of luck with them, find the size that just doesn't fit over the nut then press as hard as you can inwards while undoing it slowly...

When I changed mine, I changed the catch bolts as well, used stainless steel and put Tef gel on all the bolts...

Didn't like seeing these rusty bolts with the boot open...

Click image to enlarge

I agree with JCW's comments. It may also be that the bolt has rusted into the eye boss and the eye boss is rusted to the panel and that s why its become an issue as the bolt head is not strong enough to turn both the bolt and eye? If you have a big hefty stillson type wrench that will grab into the eye that should give extra turning torque to undo the bolt a few degrees at a time. Not sure I've explained this very well! Current: 2003 TD6 HSE. 161,000 miles
Previous 1993 Classic 3.9

Haylands wrote:

Didn't like seeing these rusty bolts with the boot open...
Bought some stainless bolts... they are M8 x 40mm, change them one at a time and you won't have to realign the latch

Thank you, ordered, and I have been meaning to do this little job for ages

Mine were so long gone on my last Full Fat that I had no choice but to drill them out, meaning that the thread was also gone. I took the rear light off and did lots of prep on both sides to get rid of the rust then used a washer and a nut on the light fitting side to secure the new tailgate strap.

I should’ve done more research before I bought the car as it had spent a number of years near Aberdeen so rust was an issue in a few places…. 2017 Jaguar F Pace 25t Portfolio - still part of the JLR family 😀
2009 3.6 V8 (MY2010) - my first ever diesel! - now also gone
2004 4.4 V8 Petrol Vogue - now gone

Awesome thanks a lot guys. I won't get time to work on it till the weekend anyway so I'll give it a good spraying with penetrating oil every day in preparation.

I already have that exact set of Irwins actually for when I replaced the side steps last summer and rounded the last bolt. I'll dremel the knob off and hopefully that will sort it easily.

Failing that I will see if I can use the pliers trick since it is definitely welded with rust to the eye thing - I didn't even know they were meant to swivel until I bought the new ones

I already checked my catch bolts and they are somehow pristine but I am getting some of that tefgel for them - expensive but looks worth it after a quick google 2010 Autobiography 5.0 SC V8 Petrol