I expect this question has been asked before but could not find anything definitive...

My 2008 has a locking rear diff. It is actuated by a motor and gear that sits on the top of the diff at the near side (UK). The system has ceased to function resulting in a cascade failure of other subsystems including Transmission fault, SAS, ABS, Special programs, EAS etc... What I have managed to find out is that this is more often than not the motor failing. I do have a new unit but given potential access issues, was hoping for some advice

*Can the unit be replaced without dropping the diff? Some say yes, some say no but actual experience or anything definitive would be appreciated. Plan would be motor only rather than the whole unit including the electronics/gearing. Unless that is unwise.

*I have an IID and have toyed with the idea of just going into the CCF and changing the setting for rear diff locking to "NOT FITTED". Any thoughts on that as an option?

Any guidance gratefully received Range Rover Vogue SE L322 3.6TDV8 2008

I had to change the motor on my 07 SC last year,it is possible to do it without dropping the diff,the motor is held on by 4 hex bolts,you do have to work blind though as it sits on top of the diff and you have to feel for the bolt position.

Absolute pig of a job as your lying on your back getting a face full of whatever crud drops off the underside.

Think it took me 3-4 hours in total,cured all the faults that you describe.

I have an IID and have toyed with the idea of just going into the CCF and changing the setting for rear diff locking to "NOT FITTED". Any thoughts on that as an option?

I'd be interested to know if this has been done by anyone???

my ediff motor packed in 7 years ago, but open circuit, I get no alarms apart from a transmission fault message on start up, code gives diff motor open circuit, causes me no issues whatsoever but be nice to not see the message pop up every time I start the thing up.... 😂

I’ve done this job, see my posts on it here -

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic65988.html Jonathan

2007 Defender 90 XS Hardtop

Thanks all! And especially thanks for the info on the fact the motor replacement can be done without dropping the diff despite it being a "pig" of a job.

I found the technical bulletin too and will use Fastlane to get the new software.

Won't be doing it any time soon though as we are currently under lots of snow, and like JCW, I will have to do this on the drive  Range Rover Vogue SE L322 3.6TDV8 2008

So I'm having this issue for the 2nd time now with around 130k miles on our 2008 Full Size Supercharged. We replaced the differential motor in April 2016 at 70k miles and I realize in retrospect we got pretty screwed on the price, but the invoice seems to indicate OEM. Mechanic today is suggesting we don't spend a lot on the motor because it may not totally solve the problem (there was a decent amout of metal in the rear diff fluid when it came out but no chunks). So no point getting a fancy one of these if the diff is dead. Does anyone have a source for one they recommend? Like off a junked L322 or any of these knockoff units that will actually work? I'm seeing LR032711 and LR032712 as part numbers for this thing, but for some reason the sites don't include the 06-09 4.2 Supercharged on that list, though it applies to basically everything else from that era. Any help would be appreciated. OEM cost best I can find is $670.26 if I use the local dealer parts website. Which has great deals on OEM stuff by the way.


https://parts.landroverlosangeles.com/part...g-lr032711

https://www.roverparts.com/differentials/kits/LR032711G/

https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Differential-...B07CYTRH4X

Carbon, I can't speak for the US side of the pond, but here in the UK, if you buy an OEM diff motor/gear, it does indeed cost a similar amount. However, if you return the old one you get a £100 refund.

Here's a thing though. While you decide how to approach this, take a piece of wood or a socket bar along with a soft hammer and get under there and whack the motor gently - where it goes into the gear and the other end. Sounds silly doesn't it? But it is often just a bush not contacting or a shaft stuck. I have done this twice now over the last 100,000 miles and it does work. Several others I have suggested it to say it works too. Not a permanent solution but it gets rid of the chistmas lights and the annoying consequences while you look to replace.

Also, have you checked the version of the diff controller firmware? If it is not the up-to-date version, then the problem is likely to re-occur down the line whichever you choose - OEM or knock-off Range Rover Vogue SE L322 3.6TDV8 2008

I think the mechanic did a fluid flush and replacement and did the software flash but it didn't solve the problem. It's only when I engage reverse gear that the lights come on and they will typically go back off again when the car is turned off and back on again.