That doesn't sound like a great idea. Remember it's a solenoid in the damper, that is an inductive load (coil) not a resistive one; therefore it's current that matters, not voltage.

Regardless, I wouldn't recommend trying to overload it, what I think you're aiming for is to bias the output curve. If anything you want to have the system tend toward the higher (1.5A) current more of the time... but that's messing in a world I wouldn't dream of being able to finesse adequately.

It's got nothing to do with voltage. Changing the voltage will likely destroy your Adaptive Dynamics Module (ADM).

The valve inside each damper is operated by a signal providing varying current (Amps).

And, it's not just a simple case of providing more Amps either!

The valve within the damper is controlled by a 526Hz Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) signal, providing an effective current between 0 and 1.5A. De-energised (zero Amps) is the firmest setting, which is why if you disconnect the wires to the damper, the damper operates at its firmest setting by default.

Some info on PWM signals:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engin...modulation

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

The signal is 12V PWM, with the current increased by increasing the percentage of the time (the duty cycle) that 12V is supplied.
The IIDtool can display the actual current that the damper solenoids are drawing but the CVD modules don't cross-check percentage demanded with current drawn and therefore don't flag a fault if a fault exists in the switching component. This was eventually demonstrated to a dealer when a L663 had a very rough ride from new that had previously been assessed to be operating correctly by looking only at the demanded percentage. A new chassis module cured the issue.

Hello All,

After reading about all the broken cables on these dampers I got worried mine were on the brink of breaking as I have to do 2 full lock turns every morning to get out of my parking spot at home.
And 2 full lock turns to get in, but then the car is warm.
I mean... cables work until they don't and my Arctic trip is coming soon where the temps will be LOW.

Going through a fair amount of posts on these broken cables I read RR changed the cable loom in 2012 (?)

So, before taking things apart - don't want to fix things that aren't obviously broken - and having a look at how good/bad my cables are I'm posting some pics.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

My April 2012 build has the updated cables. I've unplugged the cable retaining fixings on both sides to ensure that the cables can move freely.

As does mine, built at the end of February 2012, and the cables look identical to yours. 2012 TDV8 Westminster in the New Forest

Also: Land Rover Series 3 SWB, Mercedes 280SL, Classic Mini race replica, VW Golf SV
Previously: Audi A8, RR TDV8 Vogue, Audi Allroad, VW Golf GTI Edition 30, Audi A4 Avant, A8, A4 Sport, A6, VW Golf Mk5, Bora, Golf GTI Mk3, Jetta Mk3, Passat, Jetta Mk1, Golf Mk1

How much EXTERNAL movement is there at the electrical contact in the strut top? It can't be much.

Must be honest, I didn't know they moved at all!

L322 Fattie now gone, so can't check.

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

The same change in angle as the wheels.

Thanks Graeme

I never noticed that movement, even after rebuilding both front struts on my AD equipped L322!

Both struts on mine had the wiring repaired prior to my ownership as there was an obvious join.

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

The plate under the nut to which the vibration damper attaches needs to be set at about the correct angle with the steering straight ahead before the nut is tightened, otherwise the wiring can be strained on full lock.