Morning Folks

My 2007 Supercharged (150k) is due it's MOT in Dec and previous MOTS have highlighted rust on the subframe as an advisory. The parking brake has given up the ghost and the rear suspension is squeaking like an old pram and the rear sags if left for a couple of days. So, I'm going to bite the bullet and remove the rear subframe and sort all these out!

Any suggestions on other stuff worth looking at whilst it's all out? Also any tips on removal of the subframe? I've found a few vids online and it doesn't seem too scary.

Cheers James

Hi, definitely a worthwhile job, did mine about a year ago on my 2012 TDV8

First job was to remove the rear silencer box. I cut the exhaust ahead of prop to diff on the straight sections as really didn’t fancy getting into removing the entire system with great risk of breaking fixings. Rejoined the exhaust with the inexpensive clamping sleeves you can get.

I removed the knuckles and driveshafts complete first just to reduce the weight and also a lot easier to disassemble off the car. I made a small frame of 3x2 wood for stability to jack onto. No dramas then lowering or raising the subframe with a floor jack.

Don’t forget to undo airlines from the airbags each side and EPB release cable from the O/S wheelarch.

Your EPB cables from the module on top of the diff will probably be rusted into the knuckles, don’t even try to save them. Very easy to fit new cables. The EPB module is easy to get to once the subframe is lowered. The screws that hold the module lid to the main box will be corroded, replace with stainless steel. In fact I replaced a lot of the fixings with stainless steel liberally coated in grease on reassembly.

You might want to replace the O/S rear brake pipe that crosses the rear of the car. I just cut the existing pipe in an area that was good on the N/S and used a joint. I also replaced the brake flexibles on both sides.

Obviously with subframe removed you get access to the entire underfloor. I removed all of the heat shields and removed any patches of rust with a wire brush on an angle grinder. I used a rust treatment and brushed zinc primer followed by a coat of body coloured enamel again brushed on.

I had the subframe Shot blasted and powder coated once stripped. Fitted genuine LR subframe bushes and reassembled.

I replaced the rear prop shaft as the centre bearing was on its way and also both driveshafts as the reluctor rings were badly corroded. I spent over £2k in parts including rebuilding the rear calipers new upper and lower suspension arms, obviously all knuckle bearings and bushes. If you don’t have 20 tonne press find a garage that knows how to press out FFRR wheel bearings and driveshafts.

Note the brake back plates for 2010 - 2012 cars are NLA from JLR! If yours are corroded you will need to repair. The back plates for earlier cars are readily available.

Once reassembled I liberally sprayed the underside with Dinatrol, much better in my opinion than lanogaurd.

It’s a big job but very doable, good luck.

Kevin Kevin
2012 L322 Westminster 4.4 TDV8
1999 P38A 4.0 SE - Sold

Good info there, so thanks Kevin.

This job is on my list for next Spring when its warming up. Hopefully. Gavin

2005 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 Supercharged V8

Follow my 4.2 Supercharged antics -
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic63354.html
https://www.instagram.com/l322_supercharged/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8ChHNSdscnJarKjBLd_IAg

Thanks for the info Kevin, some good stuff in there. Splitting the exhaust definitely seems like a good idea, I've lost lots of skin over the years trying to remove awkward bolts from downpipes!

All my discs, pads & calipers have been replaced recently so that's one job I don't have to do. I'm kicking myself as I got given a complete subframe a few years ago but at the time I had no intention of doing anything with it so I gave it away to a friend!

I'm luck in that I have access to a lift and a fork lift so hopefully I'll be able to lower the whole thing out then dismantle it on the bench.

I'll try & remember to take some pictures of what I uncover and share them on here.

Update on this one. I got the subframe removed at the weekend. Surprisingly it wasn't too difficult.

I managed to get the exhaust off in one piece, the bolts came out ok apart from one, so a bit of drilling to do to put a new one in. Trying to press the connectors on the lambda sensors was way more of a challenge! Couldn't get my hand in to hold the connector & press it at the same time so lots of about with that!

Prop shaft centre bearing has gone, which I think might have been causing the slight thunk on down shifts.

We used a forklift under it to get the subframe out. Its pretty rusty but all surface stuff so nothing that can't be cleaned up & painted. I'm replacing all the arms, bushes & airbags. The EPB cables were seized in so they had to be cut & will need replacing. Need to test the EPB too as it wasn't working.

More concerning was the bloody great hole in the spare wheel well! The car has an LPG conversion so the hole was covered by the LPG tank. I think moisture has got in via corrosion around the tank mounting points and just sat in the bottom.

So far I'm up to £1200 in parts, rust converter, paint and diff oil so it isn't going to be cheap but it is galloping towards 20 years old so

Click image to enlarge

Well done! The bushes in the upper and lower arms are not worth replacing. The arms bend when you extract the old bushes and aftermarket arms are about £100 each.

The airline clips which break on removal are NLA from LR - of course. However I found they are BMW p/n B34.52.1.164.653 @ £0.38 each. Worth buying 10 or so. As said previously look after your brake back plates if it’s a 2010-12 car, again part is NLA (or was) from LR.


 Kevin
2012 L322 Westminster 4.4 TDV8
1999 P38A 4.0 SE - Sold

Cheers Kevin, good shout on the clips, just about every plastic clip is broken in someway and every metal one is rusted away so I'll just buy a job lot!