I’ve been replacing the front pads in my 2012 4.4 TDV8 and I think I’ve just made a big mistake. The sliding pins on one side were being a pig. I managed to get one out but the 2nd is stuck fast. Rather than seeking help I’ve utilised heat and an angle grinder. The good news is that I’ve got the pads out. The pad news is that one end of the pin is still in the calliper 😭 The pin itself has flattened onto the inside of the calliper from being hit with a punch so I think I now need to get it drilled out. That’s problem number 1.

Problem number 2 is that the calliper bolts seem to be stuck fast so I can’t get the calliper off to get it to a machine shop. I’ve got a 21mm 12 sided socket on it but I can’t get the purchase with a breakers bar to really lever them. In a huff, I’ve left them soaking in penetration oil to have a go tomorrow. I’m thinking of getting a jack under the breakers bar to apply the required force. Good idea or not?

Any other advice before I resume battle in the morning?

I’d be inclined to get a hex socket on the caliper bolts as the 12 sided might be a little risky if you’re having to use some force. They are tight but shouldn’t really present too big of a challenge.

If you have new pins (I assume you do) have you tried knocking the stubborn one out using one of the old ones?

Good luck!!

I’ll take a picture tomorrow but the bolts are definitely not 6 sided ones, I thought they were the weird E ones at first.

Re. the pin, yup, tried that and I just ended up bending the pin!

You might be right, it’s been a while.

Just ordered a long 6mm HSS bit to drill the stupid thing out. Fingers crossed for me!

WRT caliper removal: I can’t recall off the top of my head how much room you have to work with. If you can get an impact driver in there I’d try that, optionally with an harmonic inertia socket like this one

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385014553981?mk...media=COPY

( check the size required )

I used this tool to remove a very stubborn fly wheel nut during the summer and was surprised at how effective it was.

Also, treat yourself to good quality replacement pads otherwise you’ll probably get brake squeal. Lots of folk on here use EBC greenstuff pads. See my post here on the topic :

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic64092.html TDV8 4.4 2012

Have you got the steering on a lock to give you better access to the caliper bolts?

If you're working with it dead ahead it'd be a nightmare for clearance but if you turn the steering you can usually use the breaker bar outside of the wheel arch.

I've never had a problem doing it that way with a big breaker bar or a big torque wrench when refitting.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Thanks David, why didn't I think of that? 😊

Jack the car up, put the socket and breaker bar on the calliper bolts, put the end of the breaker bar on the ground or a piece of timber. Let the Jack down so that the weight of the car is on the breaker bar and go and have a coffee. Let gravity do the work for you.

Don’t waste time with brute force methods. Buy a battery powered impact driver. Even my cheap Ryobi 400nm ‘toy’ has yet to be defeated on a bolt inc front calipers. It’s not the torque but the percussive action that breaks the thread free. Remember to use ear defenders. Re tightening them is an issue without a lift as you really need to be under the car with a long bar. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

What's the torque setting for the caliper bolts on a 4.4tdi? I'm curious as the setting on a 3.6tdi with Brembo calipers is, iirc, surprisingly low. When I removed mine a while ago I was a little surprised as to how tight they weren't!

Chris

They are quite tight, see below for the 3.6, but if you use the method described by David which allows for a bar outside of the arch its perfectly possible to do. Significantly it recommends new bolts.



JayGee is correct about an impact wrench, I invested in a Milwaukee (below link, also available in a 1/2" but the 3/8 is no less of a tool) and I have to say it took the caliper bolts off without any trouble.

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/milwaukee-...wrench-kit

Although its £244.00 I've used it loads since and has earnt its money I'd say.

Let us know how you get on with the pad pin that's stuck, maybe with the caliper off you'll get a better look at it.

Jon

I managed to round one of the bolts and had to weld another on. Went through 7 nuts which all sheared off before my mate used his arc welder with a dissimilar rod. Even then it took a 5 foot scaffold bar.
The bolt thread showed no damage or corrosion neither did the caliper. I expected pulled threads at least.

Keep going, they will come out. 2007 3.6 TDV8
1979 Mini Special
1988 Yamaha FJ1200
!952 BSA Gold Flash

RobsterPC wrote:

I’ll take a picture tomorrow but the bolts are definitely not 6 sided ones, I thought they were the weird E ones at first.

Do they look like this?

That's usually what JLR use for caliper bolts. A good quality 12 sided socket with a 3ft 1/2" breaker bar will get them out and with the steering on a lock you'll have plenty of room to get them in.

I far prefer loosening tight bolts by hand as I've seen impact drivers take the edges off bolts with the oscillating action. I'd be very wary of using them on 12 sided bolts personally.

If you can use them with a 6 sided or wall drive socket then I'm all for them but there's certain things I won't use them on personally.

I could well be being overly cautious but every 20 minute job is 1 stripped bolt away from becoming a 2 day ordeal as they say. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior