Should have said - 2011 model. Fan was very squeaky to the point it was unbearable. It blew the FSR which I replaced . That allowed me to use the fan ( periodically) until I could replace the fan unit.

Changing the FSR was fun ( not ! )

Andrew.

Unfortunately, early models don't end up with that big access hole in the centre of the dash.

I need to access mine (2003/4) model) and it looks like a major strip down. See

 Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

@p38arover

For the earlier models there is a way with a little bit of cutting:

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post171844.html#171844

That's how I did it and it worked quite well.

p38arover wrote:

Unfortunately, early models don't end up with that big access hole in the centre of the dash.

I need to access mine (2003/4) model) and it looks like a major strip down. See

Thanks Gary. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Thanks GrangeRover, I'll check that thread.

My fan is working but something is hitting the blower fan blades. It started suddenly a week or so back.

 Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Huge thanks GaryRR for taking the fear away for me.

I've just joined the DIY heater blower swap shop. I was very cautious (slow) both with the strip down, fitting the new (genuine JLR) blower, and refitting all the parts.

@GaryRR, as I was faithfully following your write-up step by step, word for word, I ended up refitting the dashboard twice. Steps 22 and 23 in your instructions are the wrong way round. The infotainment system needs to be refitted BEFORE the dashboard.

Thanks for pointing out - I have reviewed and indeed I did put them the wrong way around. I have edited the guide on the previous pages accordingly. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Anyone know the part number or a link to the blower motor COVER? Would the BMW link below work as I cannot find a LR example? cracked mine on removal and it rubs on left turns now. Not that I want to do this work again but if it gets worse I would like to have the replacement cover on hand.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-pa...tsQAvD_BwE

It's not available as a part itself. It's part of the heater matrix assembly (which you can buy used):

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

On this subject can anyone help me with diagnosis of my blower problem. My front blowers stopped working suddenly and do not work on any setting although the lights are on. I changed fuse 41 in the boot ( mine is a 2012 model) to no avail. The blowers were starting to screech sometimes on start up.
Could this be the resistor or is it almost definitely the motor? And would the resistor have gone because of a faulty motor?
My Indie are going to change the resistor and they reckon that is the problem. I’m thinking it’s the motor and the resistor will just go again.
Is it best to try the resistor first or go for the motor and then change the resistor if necessary?
I am thinking maybe to try and diy change the resistor and see what happens.
Any thoughts from anyone?

I have just joined this blower motor club and am happy to say all is working ( at the moment!)
I am somebody with very limited mechanical experience although I have tackled some audio stuff over the years.
I suppose it must have taken me about 20 hours altogether but I do work slowly and carefully to try and eliminate errors. Some of it is very fiddly for an amateur. The photos that Gary has done are very good.
I encountered one very annoying problem; When I was removing the heater flap panel the instructions say that the right hand screw is quite inaccessible, you have to pull a loom out of the way and remove the screw by feel. After I had done this the panel would not come out and I assumed it was wedged in tightly by the vent tubes. After a long time and a lot of swearing by chance I felt another screw in an even more inaccessible place. More swearing and struggling later I had that out and didn’t replace it when I put the car back together. My car is 2012 near to the end of the L322 production. Maybe altering the fitting for the new model? Who knows ! Important to know it might be there; it had me struggling for at least 2 hours. I meant to take a picture but forgot I’m afraid.
The other thing I would say is it is a lot easier if you have somebody to help. A lot of the jobs are so much easier if someone is assisting.
I’m glad I did it but there were a couple of times I wished I had booked it in with the garage! When I was struggling with the heater panel I knocked off the adjusting wire thing on the side. That took me ages to fit that both ends. Especially after I had dropped it and had to buy some special long tweezers to retrieve it with a help from chewing gum.
I am posting this to give people of limited mechanical experience an idea of how difficult it is.

Thank you for writing such a comprehensive guide - I have very basic mechanical skills, but managed to get through all of it and now have a working blower again, great stuff.

Unfortunately, as with most RR jobs, one fix creates another problem - somehow when re-installing the lower glove box, the release button for the glovebox is not working! I know that I reconnected all of the connectors correctly before re-installing it, because I had to reconnect them and attach the battery in order to press the release button so that I could get inside (obviously they had closed shut when removed after I placed them on the back seat), it worked perfectly and I re-attach the lower glovebox with all the screws.

But after re-attaching the lower glovebox, and closing it, now it will not open - have I fouled the wires behind while re-attaching it? The remote locking won't work either now, so I put tow and two together and checked the 5A fuse No 16 in the rear for glovebox and remote locking, and sure enough it's blown - replaced it and blown again immediately.

The problem now is how on earth do I remove the lower glove box again to look behind it or see if I've fouled the wires when there is no way to open it to remove all the screws and look behind it? In addition how am I going to get to the main fusebox if I can't open the lower glove box?

Any ideas or help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You very much, the Indy I use claims it’s a 30 hr Job