When I replaced the ARC/ACE pipes, it was pretty obvious that the original fuel tank guard made from mild steel and barely painted, was near the end of it's life. It had several holes and was rusty just about everywhere...

I sourced a second hand one and had it sandblasted and hot dip galvanised.

When I dropped the rear subframe to do the pipes I couldn't get the prop off the rear diff so unbolted it from the transfer box and dropped it with the rear subframe.

I never looked to see if it was possible to change the fuel guard, which involves removing the whole tank, with the prop undone from the transfer box only, or does it require the prop to be totally removed from the diff....

Any advice from anyone who has changed the guard, or tips on getting the prop off the diff, gratefully received.

We tried to undo the nut holding it to the rear prop with two large adjustable spanners and two 4ft scaffold poles, we gave it some serious pressure but it felt like something would break...

Cheers...

My gut feel is that the prop will need to be off. Look at this pic from the lads on here doing the ace pipes. The tank still has to drop lower to clear the chassis and it’s already looking like it’s at an angle that the prop would be blocking it as I don’t think there is much flex at the diff end.



For doing my pipes I bought a 52mm spanner from Amazonbut didn’t need it. Might be stronger than an adjustable. Wasn’t the worst of prices either.

It’s a 52 and a 36mm you need apparently. I’ll double check later if the 52mm one fits if you want.

My tank guard is rusted badly too … but I just left it ! V8 or else ...

I took my rear prop off when I did the my diff pinion seal which was weeping. You need to use a 36mm spanner on the prop side. I have the JLR special tool set for the rear diff and I'd be more than happy to post the spanner to you if you would like to borrow it Pete.

This is the set. As you can see, the spanner has little ears on it to grip the nut.

Click image to enlarge

that fuel tank is a lovely bit of work  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Fisha, thanks for the info, I'll borrow Kev's spanners, that should sort it...

Kev, yes please incoming PM....

Stan, it does look a bit blingy, should last about 30years....  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Definitely got to undo both ends of the prop, I would say. I thought one end might work at first myself when I changed my tank shield, but couldn’t figure it out. Note I did remove and replace the shield without dropping the tank though - see my earlier post on this.

Here are the tools that I used to undo the propshaft at the differential end. A 36mm and an adjustable wrench from Amazon (couldn’t find a 52 or 52.6mm at a reasonable price). Together with two 3ft long pipes from Menards (one an inch diameter, and one an inch and a quarter diameter) to fit nicely onto each wrench and extend it for leverage.

Had the Range Rover a couple feet of the ground on a ramp, and had the 36mm wrench/pipe on the propshaft and also up against the ramp so that it could not rotate, and then had both arms free to pull together on the 52.6mm set adjustable wrench and pipe that was on the flange.

GEDORE - 6576700 894 36 Single... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018CQJGCQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Lichamp 12-Inch Wide Jaw... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089T71V7M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Click image to enlarge

Psyching myself up to do this job and one of my concerns is removing the propshaft. The above info is invaluable.
I might be next in line to borrow the spanner or being an old school meanie I might spend the next fortnight making one.
Thanks for the info.
Pete

NHS, Thanks for the information, most helpful...

Pete, if you make one, the "little ears" in the set above look like an excellent idea....  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Those “little ears” do look like a good idea, think I recall reading somewhere though that those “little ears” need removing for some reason on later vehicles, and that the newer version of that wrench does not have them? Easily done with a hand grinder I suppose if it proves necessary.

If you search the tool part number you can find a pdf with the technical drawing of it and it shows where the teeth need filed off. V8 or else ...

Just to confirm, 52mm spanner fits snugly on the prop …

Click image to enlarge

Thanks for checking...  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

NoHandSignals.
Did you use new bolts on the front end of the prop?
Pete

Yep, sure did. Definitely a good idea to have a fresh head for tool fitment, and they came with the locking compound already fitted.

Can’t recall exactly but I don’t think they cost too much, a couple dollars each? Mail ordered in advance from LandLeaping, together with a lot of other new bolts for the tank shield fixing. Unlike the prop fixings, I don’t think that’s strictly necessary, just with the age of the car anywhere a bolt attached into the aluminum body I generally placed a new bolt in order to have a fresh zinc coating.

Also, while I remember, I marked that end of the propshaft with a dab of paint on both the gearbox and prop flanges to make sure I reassembled to the same alignment. Not sure if this was necessary but seemed to make sense in case of any factory balancing.

fisha wrote:

Just to confirm, 52mm spanner fits snugly on the prop …