Hmmm. They’ve sent you the 1068 298 047 solenoid kit for the E-shift 6HP28. I wonder why they’ve done that? They must know you have the M-shift version because you ordered the 063 intermediate sheet. Strange.



The 3 x yellow cap, 2 x blue cap and 2 x orange cap solenoids are all identical for your M-shift, so that’s fine – it’s just whether they’ve charged you more than they would have done for the correct 1068 298 046 solenoid kit? Maybe they didn't have an 046 kit in stock so they've sent you the 047 kit for the same price?

Phil

That makes perfect sense now!

The part number on the box for the solenoids is 1068 298 046 but the contents seem to match 1068 298 047.

I’ve checked the invoice and it’s been billed to me as a 046 kit.

I’ve called them and made them aware of what I’ve had delivered. Have told them I’ll use the solenoids and if they want the rest of the kit back they can arrange to have it collected.

They seemed happy enough with that and will come back to me on Monday.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Another question I’m afraid, Phil.

Is there a tightening sequence and torque figure for reassembling the valve body?

Thanks,
David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

I don’t think I’ve ever seen any documentation regarding the tightening sequence for the 17-off M5 x 40 screws which hold the two valve bodies together, plus the 5-off M5 x 55 screws which bolt the electronic module to the hydraulic module.

The standard torque setting for this size and grade (i.e. 10.9) of screw is 8.3Nm, but maybe this sounds a little high for the aluminium castings?

The larger (M6) screws which bolt the assembly to the casing are specified at 8Nm (+/- 0.8Nm), so I think probably 6Nm for the M5 screws? In terms of tightening sequence, I think that the ‘start in the centre and work outwards in a spiral’ rule applies.

Phil

P.S. I note that the Sonnax instructions for their 6HP28 Mechatronic Zip Kit states “Mechatronic-to-Case or Valve Body Halves Bolts 8Nm/71 in-lb” so, clearly, they feel 8Nm is suitable for both the M6 and the M5 screws.

For the sake of completeness, this is the tightening order for the screws which bolt the Mechatronic unit into the casing. Yours will be the later 13 screw design (i.e. 10-off M6 x 59 plus 3-off M6 x 20):



Earlier transmissions used just 10 screws :



Tightening torque for these M6 screws, as mentioned in the previous post, is 8Nm (+/- 0.8Nm)

Phil

Thanks Phil. Really appreciate you posting those diagrams.

I’m hoping to get to it this week, otherwise it’ll be after Christmas unfortunately.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

All dampers replaced along with the intermediate plate and all solenoids.

Gearbox is silky smooth changing through all gears now. Haven’t had a chance to take it onto the motorway yet or get it on cruise.

Adaptions were also reset so need a couple of hundred gentle miles of up and down the gears. I’ve never had much luck doing the proper drive cycles. I’ve never been able to find a road long enough to let it coast almost to a stop.

PM incoming about returning your solenoids, Phil.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

My 1st-2nd gear change when cold isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. And the sump is leaking

Guess what I'll be doing next

Hi Dhall,

I've read through this post with great interest! I'm wondering how your transmission is after 6 months now?

It’s perfect

Gear changes are silky smooth and it’s behaving perfectly.

I’ve done some towing with it too which included moving a car on the trailer from North Wales to Glasgow which was a 700 mile round trip, 350 miles of which had an empty trailer (900kg) and 350 miles had a loaded trailer (2500kg) and it performed perfectly.

Still can’t thank RRPhil enough for his help with this one.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Hey, I know this thread is from last year but it’s great! I thought I had the same issue as you, sounded like the exact same symptoms but I cleaned the MAFT sensors and 200km and it hasn’t re-occurred (fingers crossed).

However, I have the GAP tool and was recording my turbine and engine speed like you did but I’m not sure how you managed to get the two RPM axis to line up. When I try to graph it they don’t sync up because the engine RPM seems to be variable axis and the turbine is static. I see you got little triangles on the legend…did you somehow lock the axis together?



R 2011 Range Rover L322 SC - Autobiography (Ipanema Sand)
Ontario, Canada